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Overdrive

Adventurer
Excellent choices. I have some experience with FWC's and I agree the Grandby's slightly longer floor makes a big difference. Good choice on the long bed and Grandby!

I assume you will be designing in your own heater/furnace and stove since you didn't list it as one of your options.

The only things I would suggest (you may have already placed the order?) is two roof vents (one over the bed and the normal one over the stove) and the small driver's side window. Many folks with the rear wall steps (me included) found them useful around camp to hang stuff on, and they are all but impossible to add after the fact, as the bolts are through the frame (of course) and it's all hidden with the finished product. You don't have a roof rack (mine came in handy) so you may have intentionally decided "no". Just my $.02
 

AeroNautiCal

Explorer
Having to wait that amount of time does allow for some planning, and having the internal dimensions to hand it should be possible to mind's eye design interior configurations.
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Most likely I will be building this out with a diesel powered heater from Eberspächer or Webasto. After spending time this past week in a brand new FWC Hawk I was was confused by the performance of the factory installed heater. It would turn on and blast us with air that was too hot for several minutes followed by a cooling period that was followed by a chilling one. The system does not seem balanced and I wonder why this particular model was selected. The Hawk had a thermal pack and the outside temperatures ranged from the high 20s to low 40s.

Yup! The FWC furnace and its ridiculous amount of non stop issues was one of the many reasons i sold my FWC fairly quickly.

The pre-2018 seem to be extremely reliable and the 2018+ ones are giant problematic turds
 

DzlToy

Explorer
Marinco makes good stuff and the tinned wire is a great idea. I wish more people would use quality components in their builds. I have talked to 100 people who have stories about heaters that failed, roof fans that broke or leaked, solar panels that don't work, doors and windows that rattle, etc. I am still car camping and backpacking, so no camper for me, yet.

Along that line, please do not buy anything from Indel/Webasto or Eberspacher. Check out Toyotomi Laser heaters or ITR instead. Both companies make really good products.

For the 17 grand that you have set aside for a shell, you could build something better in the coming 52 weeks. There is nothing special about an empty shell made from sticks and fiberglass.

Motion makes decent windows, as do Motorcraft (UK), Sun View (BC) and Bomar (FL?). If you want to step up a notch or two, check out Diamond Sea Glaze, KCT or Outbound. You can drastically reduce HVAC loads and improve year 'round livability by installing high quality windows, doors and hatches. In doing so, your camper will provide you with many years of enjoyment.

Marine grade roof top hatches and fans are far superior to anything used in the main stream RV industry. Try to avoid using wood to build anything in the camper. XPS and FRP are your friends and can be used to make furniture, bed platforms and even countertops. CelTec is also a good option for furniture if you want ready made sheet goods, lighter than wood and water proof. Nail holding is about 30 pounds and screw holding is 10x that.

Used Tesla Model S batteries are far superior to mass market Chinesium products from Renogy, Battleborn and Xing Hao Ho. A single module weighs 56 pounds and has 400 amp hours of capacity. Measurements are 27" x 12" x 4".

Making your own sandwich panels is not difficult. They are light, strong and completely eliminate thermal bridging. None of those are characteristics of a 4WC, IMO.

0.03
 

s.e.charles

Well-known member
this doesn't appear to be the usual build; this planning phase is a pleasant change. hope that ideology doesn't waver after the unit is delivered.

following along.
 

craig333

Expedition Leader
Torklift frame-mounted rear tie downs D3112 mounted today. Install took about an hour and used basic hand tools to include calibrated 30-250 lb-ft torque wrench. Instructions called for three main outboard bolts to be torqued to 200 lb-ft with the single inboard bolt torqued to 75 lb-ft. The rear mount is effectively an extension of the existing frame and is solid beyond question.

Picture under driver's side rear quarter showing part of frame and OEM receiver hitch per-install:
View attachment 654428

Same area post install with part number D3112 installed:
View attachment 654429

Lowest part of rear tie down is 2" below bottom of rear bumper. Outermost section extends 4.25" from widest part of truck.
View attachment 654430
Scary looking. I'd have ripped that off by now.
 

beef tits

Well-known member
I though FWC used a steel turnbuckle that connected the camper to a forged eyebolt that passed through the bed of the truck and then through an aluminum plate with a nut on it. That does not go anywhere close to the vehicle frame - it mounts into thin sheet metal and is a flawed design. And why use aluminum for the plate since aluminum has such a poor fatigue life?

And I agree the Torklift is not an ideal solution although it does transfer the forces to the vehicle frame and not the thin sheet metal of the bed.

The turnbuckles are aluminum and steel, and you're right they may not actually bolt to the frame but they are sturdy as hell. I'll get some pictures of mine later. Your Grandby shell weighs maybe 800-900 lbs. Very light. None of that weight is being held by the bolts... the truck bed holds the weight. All the bolts do is keep the bed from sliding around and tilting; that is not much force. Torklifts are made for big ass hard sided truck campers with a much higher center of gravity and considerably more overall width.

If properly installed with a rubber mat, the turnbuckles are fine when hand-tight plus a full turn. I have taken my truck on some very rough roads. You do need to check them for tightness once in a while, OR add thread compound / a locknut... they will wiggle loose a little with vibration... otherwise the camper does not move.

The false sense of necessity is going to limit you off-road. Just think it through man, you're simply wrong. Hell the FWC does not even have mounting points for traditional exterior turnbuckles... you'll have to add your own (which will be very tight to your bed side) or use the jack mounts (not a good place to apply an angled force). Don't do it man.
 
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beef tits

Well-known member
Positive. Two different campers, same bolts, I take them in/out all the time. You’re over thinking it.

Also you bought a Dodge. Are you are sure quality is your top priority?
 

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