I'll make bulkhead fittings using a plastic pipe (1/2" -2" x 2" - 6" depending on wall thickness and what is being passed through) nipple and drill and tap (NPT) plastic (ABS/HDPE/PVC) 1/4" x 1 1 /2" to 3" diameter sheet/plate (imagine a floor flange that is flat on both sides) to go on the inside/outside .Cabinets are coming along and mostly done (pics later once i clean things up a bit).
QUESTION FOR ALL AND OPINIONS WANTED.....
Punching the hole for the drains on the floor????
I've been putting this off, as its been low priority, but its come time to address it.
I am going to need 2 holes in my floor, one for the sink, and one for the shower.
I have them basically side by side on purpose, so they will both exit the camper and tee into a single drain before hitting the gray tank. Thats the easy part...
The part i am struggling with is what to use and how to do the holes cleanly and sealed and looking for ideas
Floors are 3.25" thick (or so) and in a perfect world, id like a fitting where drain enters the floor and a fitting down below where it exits underneath, with a ball valve of some sort under the vehicle
I am finding close to nothing on my research about the topic and what methods are used.
Anyone care to add their .02?
Thank you very much!I'll make bulkhead fittings using a plastic pipe (1/2" -2" x 2" - 6" depending on wall thickness and what is being passed through) nipple and drill and tap (NPT) plastic (ABS/HDPE/PVC) 1/4" x 1 1 /2" to 3" diameter sheet/plate (imagine a floor flange that is flat on both sides) to go on the inside/outside .
Sometime I run the NPT die down the pipe nipple further so the flanges can be snugged against the wall. The extra can be trimmed off.
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I know nothing about Manus bond stuff, but if it holds like the Korapop stuff from TC, i think it would be a great ideaHey man, I am thinking of glueing down some fridge tie-downs. Similar to how you glued those angle brackets. I don't know entirely what to expect by just using the adhesive. I'm using Manus bond 75 (which has a similar 225PSI as the Korapop you have). These tie-downs are about a 4in diameter. I'm putting one on either side of the fridge and cam-strapping the fridge to them. I've got a National Luna 72L that has the little slot in the handle base for a single cam-strap. Think it might work or should I go a different direction?
Pic of likely placement. You can see the strap slot at top of the handle.
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Current bank is 300ah of LithiumIf the bank is lead, then it will not truly be at 100% SoC until at least 6-7hrs from start of charging no matter how many watts/amps are available.
You could keep any eye on that with a Filterminder.Small but important update.
I often see people having to disassemble, clean, and reassemble their diesel heaters. I know something like this will always require some sort of maintenance, but the one thing i always thought would cut down on this is an air filter of some sort for the intake side of the combustion chamber. If youre camping anywhere near dusty conditions, running the heater, youre basically just sucking it into the combustion chamber.
I see VERY VERY few installs, on YouTube or the Gram that are installing any sort of filters.
I came across the portable Planar setup in the pelican case, and noticed it had an air filter on it.
After a bunch of searching and digging, i finally found it available by itself, to use with other furnaces.
It came from germany, took a few weeks, but fit like a glove and test run worked perfectly. I have it mated to the intake silencer, so its both quieter, and cleaner.
Air intake / intake hose for the auxiliary heater with dust filter to get clean air into the combustion chamberwww.tigerexped.de
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Aha, excellent!Current bank is 300ah of Lithium
Or simply rely on a good battery management system, for instance the Victron BMS with a Victron shunt, etc.Aha, excellent!
Then for good longevity, opposite of lead
you want to avoid going all the way to Full, do not allow the bank to be Float charged.
Go up to true maximum spec only for occasional benchmarking, cap testing, meter calibration.
For day to day normal cycling, I stop at 3.42 - 3.52V, depending on C-rate
no CV / Absorb at all, or shortest possible setting of the charge source if simple HVC is not available.
And only when actively cycling.
Best to keep at 30-60% SoC otherwise.