2020 Power Wagon JUXI Build and Trip Thread

jupp0r

Active member
Mods:

I picked up the truck with 50 miles from Sunnyvale. It replaced a 2017 Ford Expedition that would have been hard to build into something capable due to missing aftermarket support.

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Here’s the truck before picking it up.


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The first mod was a SnugTop Rebel Camper shell. I went with the 500lbs roof capacity model and also got the roof rails for a possible rack in the future.

I’m super happy so far with the shell. Seems solid and the materials are nice.


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Next I installed the Carli front diff guard (I removed the logo sticker before putting it in). Install was super easy, lost just a few drops of diff fluid, no need to top it of.



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Decked drawers got installed next. It’s just super helpful to have storage available when the shell is crammed with gear.

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One day before our road trip through the north west, the engine transmission skid plate from Dethloff Manufacturing arrived just in time (thanks so much Marcus for the extra effort). It’s still a mystery to me why RAM thinks it’s a good idea to have an unprotected plastic transmission pan under their beefiest offroad truck, but thankfully there is a solution to that problem. Install was really easy compared to other reports I’ve heard due to a new flag nut design for two of the bolts that are somewhat hard to reach.

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Next step was putting 37s on. I went with Raceline Wheels and 37x13.5R17 Cooper STT Pros as they were some of the only E rated tires available for 17 in rims and also seemed a good compromise between MT and AT tires. I knew I’d have to do some more trimming than with a 12.5in wide tire, though. I wanted to trim enough the first time and also make the trimming as invisible as possible. I ended up hammering the pinch weld over instead of cutting it or grinding it down. I think this is superior to preserve the seal and prevent rust problems inside the seam in the future. I sanded everything and rattle canned it with black Rustoleum. I also wanted to avoid cutting the plastic fender so I heated it up with a heat gun and pushed it back when hot. Took a while but worked, while preserving the liner to protect the metal behind from stones and water. I flexed the suspension a little on a large curb and it seems like it won’t rub anywhere even fully articulated.
 

GreggNY

Well-known member
Truck is looking awesome! I've got a very similar build going on my '18. Did you just beat the pinch weld over with the hammer by hand? I'm running 12.5 tires now but will probably go 13.5 very soon.
 

gillbrak

Active member
Looks great so far. I’m about to jump to 37x12.5s. Are E rated necessary for our PWs or will D be plenty?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jupp0r

Active member
Truck is looking awesome! I've got a very similar build going on my '18. Did you just beat the pinch weld over with the hammer by hand? I'm running 12.5 tires now but will probably go 13.5 very soon.

Yeah I just hammered it over with a 3lbs hammer. 5lbs will work better probably. I think keeping it intact is probably better for long term waterproofness than cutting it up. In the AEV flare instructions they also hammer it over after putting some stress relief cuts in. I didn’t see the need for the relief cuts.
 

jupp0r

Active member
Looks great so far. I’m about to jump to 37x12.5s. Are E rated necessary for our PWs or will D be plenty?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From a load perspective D is plenty, but these are still heavy rigs and I wanted the additional side wall strength of E rated tires to prevent tire damage on sharp rocks when aired down. Fitment wise it doesn’t really matter, the 13.5s clear fine after some trimming (with the right offset wheels).
 

warwickscout

Observer
That not accurate,everything about the pw is the same as a 3/4 ton except some suspension parts (and lockers ,swaybar dico).it has almost nothing in common with a 1/2 ton.Tow rating is still higher then most 3/4 ton trucks from the 80s and 90s
 

jadmt

ignore button user
D rated and even C rated like Toyo AT3 in 35x11.5-17 have more than enough load capacity for the PW and the Toyo AT3 has the same side wall ply as the E rated version....Now I suppose if you are going to overload that is different but the GVWR is 8565lbs the C rated Toyos are rated for 2910 or there abouts as going off memory.
 

Bayou Boy

Adventurer
Meh, dunno about that statement, I'm at 10k loaded with my PW.

Like above, you are overloaded significantly. The chassis is up to it but my bet is you have added tools to deal with that weight.

The stock PW is a 1/2 ton capacity truck built on a 3/4 ton chassis. There's really no way to dispute that.Tons of stock PWs have payloads of barely over 1200#.
 

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