2020 Overland Explorer Vehicles (OEV) CAMP-X pop-up slide-in pickup camper (renamed "Back Country" as of 2023)

[Chadx]

As mentioned previously, I determined there was no easy way to fit my SOK 206Ah Lithium battery in the battery box. It would technically fit in the battery box, but would need the battery tray removed, which would be no small task after speaking with OEV. Things are bonded with robust sealants. Very well built! But even though it would fit within the battery box, there is not enough clearance to get it there. Backup plan was to use a lithium battery that was the same footprint (particularly the width) as the stock AGM battery which would allow for the install. My Battleborne 100Ah arrived and I'd had time to test it so was ready to install. The OHMMU is another lithium option with the same width as the stock battery and it is 150Ah. Both are good options and there are some others, too. Using the Battleborne or OHMMU also allows the OEV battery tray and top plate to be used which are both very strong and great looking.

First step was fill the two unneeded vents with expanding foam. These vents are not needed for AGM or Lithium batteries. Future OEV campers will not have vents and will instead have warning stickers that only sealed, non-vented batteries can be used. I used the "Fireblock" version of Great Stuff insulating foam sealant, hence the orange color. Great foam is rated as R-3.7. I filled the two vents from the inside, let it dry and expand for 24 hours, then trimmed.

Battery slid right into place and OEV battery tray and top hold down plate fit perfect. I reprogrammed the REDARC for Lithium and good to go.

I wanted to exercise the battery to test it, my install, the REDARC, etc. And, it's good for lithiums to do one or two fairly large discharge and charge cycles to break them in. So I let the REDARC charge it 100% and calculate the SOC, then turned on the lights, fans, fridge and connected some loads to the 12v ports and drew it down from 100% SOC to 13% SOC which took about 8 hours with everything I could throw at it (I don't have an inverter so was limited in the load I could pull). I then plugged in the REDARC and let it run back up to 100%. I typically have the REDARC max charge set to 5A or 10A, but turned it up to the max 30A and "let 'er flow"! Ran it up to 100% SOC and left REDARC plugged in for 48 hours, then unplugged and ran the battery back down to 60% SOC and left it sitting there (since lithium are best stored at 30 - 70% SOC. Happy with the setup and will be putting the camper back on the truck and de-winterizing this week.

 

[Shawn M]

Chad, My Camp-X is at Big Sky waiting for me to pick it up. The dealer sent me pics. It doesn't look like mine has the battery vents. I went with the OHMMU. I will post pics of how it fits when I pick up the camper.

It appears it's a horizontal propane tank...


Also, I wish I would have requested the solar panel on drivers side... I will occasionally use a rocket box for skis and it's always nice to access it on the passengers side. Also, I need to figure out a ladder. Would be cool if I could find something that could be used to access the roof and back door and not carry (2) ladders. I drive a F350, so it's pretty tall.

 

[jadmt]

Chad, My Camp-X is at Big Sky waiting for me to pick it up. The dealer sent me pics. It doesn't look like mine has the battery vents. I went with the OHMMU. I will post pics of how it fits when I pick up the camper.View attachment 649685

It appears it's a horizontal propane tank...
View attachment 649686

Also, I wish I would have requested the solar panel on drivers side... I will occasionally use a rocket box for skis and it's always nice to access it on the passengers side. Also, I need to figure out a ladder. Would be cool if I could find something that could be used to access the roof and back door and not carry (2) ladders. I drive a F350, so it's pretty tall.

View attachment 649687

Nice. $$$$ I just stopped and looked at them. Was not prepared for how small interior space is and the over $40k stopped me . They look well made.

 

[Chadx]

Chad, My Camp-X is at Big Sky waiting for me to pick it up. The dealer sent me pics. It doesn't look like mine has the battery vents. I went with the OHMMU. I will post pics of how it fits when I pick up the camper.

It appears it's a horizontal propane tank...

Also, I wish I would have requested the solar panel on drivers side... I will occasionally use a rocket box for skis and it's always nice to access it on the passengers side. Also, I need to figure out a ladder. Would be cool if I could find something that could be used to access the roof and back door and not carry (2) ladders. I drive a F350, so it's pretty tall.

I can allllllllmost see it from my house. (I'm about 2 driving miles from BigSkyRV). OHMMU is a great solution. 150Ah in that footprint is amazing.

I see the rear door hinges on, and opens, opposite of ours. Likely so the doors catch could be mounted on the frame and not interfere with Molle rack items.

Yes, OEV switched to horizontal Marine tanks, over the winter, in both the CAMP-X and CAMP-HBE. I think a few of us discussed in this thread back then. Their are pros and cons. With the two smaller 11lb. tank setup, OEV only supplied one tank, but the owner could source a second. One could choose to travel with only one tank for less weight. Or travel with both and, when one runs out, swap to the other and know you are 50% down, then refill the first one. Or pull one out of the camper for use in a camp spot while leaving the other in the camper and hooked up. The new Marine tanks have a float with a gauge. If they are even somewhat accurate, then no issues with getting surprised and running out in the middle of the night and so getting up to switch to the second tank. A gauge is a better instrument to indicate 50% remaining than running out in one tank. Ha. Some will argue that a standard 20lb gives one the option to trade out the tank (like the Blue Rhino cages) rather than getting it filled. I used to think the same, but in reality, I much prefer refilling a tank I own because I know how it was treated. Several RV manufactures did studies and their users told them the same thing. So seems more and more are moving to the horizontal tanks. There are a few different ratings/standards/construction teirs on those tanks which impact recertification timelines, so will be interesting to see how long the OEV tanks can go before recertification or if it ever needs it at all.

Many overlanders like the telescoping ladders, but would mean carrying two, like you said (one for entry and one for roof). But you'd only need to bring it with on trips where you needed rocketbox access. They make a lot of lengths. I see you have the permanent flip out steps that attach to the extrusion. That would mostly be access from the rear which may not work for a rocketbox/skybox especially since CAMP-X/CAMP-HBE roofs are not rated for walking on them, but maybe you'd be able to reach. There are also the ski/board storage that go in receiver hitches. Most are open, but think I've seen enclosed ones as well. Combined with a swing away hitch like the Wilco Offroad 'Hitchswing', might give you a no-ladder option and avoid the whole "ski boot on a ladder in winter" situation. We use the hitchswing with our mtb rack and, while pricey, it has been great for allowing camper access with things on a receiver rack. No leads on an vertical, enclosed ski/board rack, though.

Your rig looks great! When do you pick it up?

 

[Chadx]

Wow! Just noticed this access door in your picture! I missed that update. Our version uses the small, round Marine portal. It is quite a contortion to crawl into the under-fridge cabinet and reach through to not only attach but clip shut the Torklift turnbuckle. This is a great improvement!

For those interested, the passenger side you reach down through a marine portal from above (under the dinette cushion) which is why there is not a matching access door on the passenger side. The passenger side is much easier to connect than the drivers side. Luckily I only do it twice a year as our camper is on all summer and the removal is relatively easy, but that loading, which I have to do in the next week or so, is quite the act. One our of four being a tricky isn't bad. The other 3 turnbuckles are super easy, particularly the two you access from standing outside, compared to all four of our previous FWC requiring laying on the inside floor and reaching through small ports to connect the turnbuckles.

 

[Shawn M]

I have a similar swing hitch (rakattach) I was planning to use for my mtb. I will look for a ski rack that could attach to it. I'm trying to pick it up in the next week or so.

 

[pk22]

Hi, another newbie here! Bed Question: I’m thinking of ordering a Camp X this year without actually getting to see one in person, Im 6,1 and wanted to know can I sleep E to W comfortably or will my feet and head touch! I don’t want to go
the king bed option.
Thanks in advance, such great info on this thread, thx all!

 

[Chadx]

Hi pk22,
I'm 6' and my wife is 5' 10" and we sleep E/W very comfortably. The CAMP-X cabover bed is about 76” E/W and 60” front to back. The king pullout extends the front-to-back measurement from 60" to only about 75” so there is actually 1" less length N/S with the king pullout than sleeping E/W without a pullout. Wish there would have been a way to get at least the 76" or better yet, 78" out of the king pullout. So for an inch less, it wasn't worth the effort to pull it in and out and we ended up removing our King pullout and don't use it and make due with me crawling around my wife if I need to get up in the night (or I just time it and get up when/if she gets up).

One thing to consider is a back or side sleeper can make due with less length than a stomach sleeper who would need more length due to their foot position being extending. As primarily a back sleeper, I have no issues. The hard sides and soft sides are insulated enough that even if the bottom of my feet touch them, I don't feel any cold through my topquilt. My head has several inches room. I've never once banged my head on the wall...that I recall. So I either haven't or it was a REALLY hard hit. Ha.

 

[pk22]

Hi pk22,
I'm 6' and my wife is 5' 10" and we sleep E/W very comfortably. The CAMP-X cabover bed is about 76” E/W and 60” front to back. The king pullout extends the front-to-back measurement from 60" to only about 75” so there is actually 1" less length N/S with the king pullout than sleeping E/W without a pullout. Wish there would have been a way to get at least the 76" or better yet, 78" out of the king pullout. So for an inch less, it wasn't worth the effort to pull it in and out and we ended up removing our King pullout and don't use it and make due with me crawling around my wife if I need to get up in the night (or I just time it and get up when/if she gets up).

One thing to consider is a back or side sleeper can make due with less length than a stomach sleeper who would need more length due to their foot position being extending. As primarily a back sleeper, I have no issues. The hard sides and soft sides are insulated enough that even if the bottom of my feet touch them, I don't feel any cold through my topquilt. My head has several inches room. I've never once banged my head on the wall...that I recall. So I either haven't or it was a REALLY hard hit. Ha.

thanks much Chad, helps a lot.
cheers
Paul
fingers crossed by the time we order one they have gone back to the 10lb propanes!

 

[Chadx]

...fingers crossed by the time we order one they have gone back to the 10lb propanes!

The change to a 20lb horizontal tank is likely here to stay as the cabinet and hatch design were changed to short and deep. I was thinking about this a bit more and for those that like the two tanks because they pull one out and use it at the campsight for portable cooker or fire ring, one could add a 'T' fitting at the camper and a quick connect fitting for use with an accessory propane line from the camper. Could even get fancy and mount it so the quick connect end passes through the floor of the propane cabinet and is accessible from outside without the need to open the propane cabinet door. Many slide in campers have this feature. Not sure if that is your use case for preferring two smaller tanks over one larger one, but thought I'd mention it as an option.

 

[pk22]

The change to a 20lb horizontal tank is likely here to stay as the cabinet and hatch design were changed to short and deep. I was thinking about this a bit more and for those that like the two tanks because they pull one out and use it at the campsight for portable cooker or fire ring, one could add a 'T' fitting at the camper and a quick connect fitting for use with an accessory propane line from the camper. Could even get fancy and mount it so the quick connect end passes through the floor of the propane cabinet and is accessible from outside without the need to open the propane cabinet door. Many slide in campers have this feature. Not sure if that is your use case for preferring two smaller tanks over one larger one, but thought I'd mention it as an option.

I just like the idea of having 2 so you always have a back up when one runs out, especially winter camping. We always have a tiny MSR backpacking stove for cooking outside but a T junction is a good idea for those wanting a bigger outside “grill” so to speak. Also like two smaller tanks for the lightness is going with just one at times.

 

[Herbie]

The other bummer with a hard-mounted propane tank with a Tee is that it constrains where you can locate your outdoor kitchen. If you're at a spot with uneven ground (or conversely, a lovely picnic table), being tied close to the rig to use an outdoor stove can be less than ideal...

 

[6thElement]

Wow! Just noticed this access door in your picture! I missed that update. Our version uses the small, round Marine portal. It is quite a contortion to crawl into the under-fridge cabinet and reach through to not only attach but clip shut the Torklift turnbuckle. This is a great improvement!

For those interested, the passenger side you reach down through a marine portal from above (under the dinette cushion) which is why there is not a matching access door on the passenger side. The passenger side is much easier to connect than the drivers side. Luckily I only do it twice a year as our camper is on all summer and the removal is relatively easy, but that loading, which I have to do in the next week or so, is quite the act. One our of four being a tricky isn't bad. The other 3 turnbuckles are super easy, particularly the two you access from standing outside, compared to all four of our previous FWC requiring laying on the inside floor and reaching through small ports to connect the turnbuckles.

View attachment 649703

Ha. I haven't checked in on this thread in quite a while. I'm about to go mount our camper for the season this afternoon and laying on a metal lip reaching into the storage cabinet and out the small hole to mount that turnbuckle is my least favourite part of the camper

Hi, another newbie here! Bed Question: I’m thinking of ordering a Camp X this year without actually getting to see one in person, Im 6,1 and wanted to know can I sleep E to W comfortably or will my feet and head touch! I don’t want to go
the king bed option.
Thanks in advance, such great info on this thread, thx all!

I'm 6'2" and as our camper is a few years old it only has the E/W option when we bought it. It depends what kind of pillow you use to offset your head from the side of the camper. But for me, I can just about lay straight. But better is sleeping on a slight angle as it moves my feet and head slightly further from the metal extrusions and hasn't been an issue next to my 5'11" wife.

 

[6thElement]

Camper mounted for the season, turnbuckles all attached without too much trouble, just need to drop the Renology 170Ah battery back in and she's ready to go for this weekend.

As my product suggestion, I can recommend these if you want to secure your rear turnbuckles from going missing when you're away from your truck. You can get them keyed to the same key.

Abus Lock 70IB/45HB63 All Weather Padlock

All Weather 1-3/4" coated brass padlock with long stainless steel shackle in stock for immediate delivery

allpadlocks.com

 

[Chadx]

Another padlock option is using the one from Bolt. https://www.boltlock.com/locks/padlock
Bolt makes the various locks (padlocks, receiver locks, couple pin lock, cable locks, etc.) that you set to your vehicle's ignition key. The pins come ready to set and you insert your vehicle key, firmly key it to set the pins, and not the lock is keyed to your vehicle key. Note that there are different versions/part numbers of each lock depending on the Make of your vehicle (Toyota, Chevy, Ford, Ram, etc.) so get the right one.

And what I did is had a few cheap, non-computerchip versions of my pickup key made. Without the chip, they are the same cost as getting any other key copied (a few dollars). Then I have a cheapo spare to use for my Bolt padlocks, lock/unlock the vehicle door or tailgate without pulling my ignition key. Can also keep one hidden somewhere on the truck in case you lock your ignition key in your truck. Then retrieve your non-chip spare, unlock the door and your in.

WARNING: Just don't try to start your vehicle with the non-chip key. It will disable your vehicle (I think after 2 or 3 tries but might be the first time depending on vehicle). Once disabled, it will require a tow to the dealership to enable it again).

Handy to have cheap, non-chipped key for carrying with you on a hike or a swim with no worries about loosing an expensive chipped key.
Only down side is when you sell the vehicle. Then you must decide if you keep the old non-chip keys and locks or replace all your locks so you can make them match your new vehicle again.