2019 Subaru Outback rated recovery points. Anyone make any?

[MiamiC70]

2019 Subaru Outback rated recovery points. Anyone make any?

 

[billiebob]

The factory ones are the best.

 

[MiamiC70]

They are there, “best” is debatable.

 

[Metcalf]

They are there, “best” is debatable.

The OEM engineers probably put a little thought into it......

 

[rnArmy]

Add a 2" receiver in the back. They sell hidden ones that tuck up under the rear fascia. I put one on my wife's 2017 Crosstrek.

 

[MiamiC70]

Did 2” ecoHitch on rear. It’s the front that I would like to add a pair of recovery points to. One recovery point using OEM bold just does not seem like a great idea to me.

 

[shade]

Did 2” ecoHitch on rear. It’s the front that I would like to add a pair of recovery points to. One recovery point using OEM bold just does not seem like a great idea to me.

For just lifting, a Hi-Lift Lift-Mate may work with your wheels.

For front facing recovery points, you're not going to have many (any?) options. These guys made their own, and the article may give you some ideas about what's involved. There just isn't enough structure there to allow a simple solution, and there isn't a big enough market to support production.

https://expeditionportal.com/outback-overlander/

 

[DaveInDenver]

You could go all in like Foz Roamer.

Subaru Forester rear/front bumper build (pics)

I have been lurking for a few months now and started to really like the content I found on this forum and the overall community. I thought I would share a few pics of my Forester build as of late. I have been working with Leadfoot Offroad in La Verne on some bumper designs. They are an...

americanadventurist.com

Or the Aussies with their cool stuff.

Home - SubaXtreme

www.subaxtreme.com

 

[MiamiC70]

Maybe just throw a few axle straps in the kit just in case.

 

[shade]

Maybe just throw a few axle straps in the kit just in case.

You can, but realize that it would be very easy for someone to yank or winch your Subaru apart.

I'm not sure where you're going, but a good shovel and a set of four traction mats would probably be more useful, and definitely safer. Simply airing down your tires can get you off a sandy beach if you haven't buried the car.

 

[charles94]

This company makes a metal adapter that fits in the OEM tow hook. I have one on the front and rear of my Forester.

 

[DaveInDenver]

This company makes a metal adapter that fits in the OEM tow hook. I have one on the front and rear of my Forester.

I've talked to knowledgeable engineers about these and you need to be very careful with these.

The threaded receiver in the vehicle *might* be alright but the eye bolt included with the vehicle is usually low strength. That's intentional, they are just designed for pulling a disabled vehicle on to a flat bed tow and are supposed to fail before you break the vehicle. The threads on the bolt will strip usually.

One such engineer told me that even just using them for getting people unstuck in the winter from snow is questionable and their suggestion was only traction pulls, no dynamic recovery or off highway winching.

 

[BritKLR]

"Users beware", "Your Results May Vary"........

I live in the mountains. Over the past ten + years I've probably pulled literally hundreds of Subi's, Audi's, BMW's, etc.... out of the snow, off trails, out of ditches and a couple off of Gulf Coast beaches that got suck in the sand, all by using the factory screw-in "loading" loop. Never had a failure but, I agree with those that point out they won't handle a hard pull. Slow and steady and they usually come out. Cheers.

Note: Look carefully at the materials used in the "loading" loop and the bumper sub-frame that it screws into. I've noticed that the loop is usually some form of cast steel(?) and the threaded receiver portion in the bumper sub-frame is aluminum. Not being a metals expert, I suspect this is so if and when the load gets too great the loop can stripe out from the threaded receiver portion before damaging the entire bumper.......again, I haven't experienced this but, buyer beware.

Typical Subi rescue out on one of our trailheads with our Sami......

 

[DaveInDenver]

"Users beware", "Your Results May Vary"........

I live in the mountains. Over the past ten + years I've probably pulled literally hundreds of Subi's, Audi's, BMW's, etc.... out of the snow, off trails, out of ditches and a couple off the Gulf Coast beach that got suck using the factory screw-in recovery loop. Never had a failure but, I agree with those that point out they won't handle a hard pull. Slow and steady and they usually come out. Cheers.

You heard the same spiel as me from the same individual. So not putting words in anyone's mouth since I think it's safe to assume we both respect the source, the question comes down to multipliers for slope and mire factor.

All points are rated by the OEM based on GVM. Which as we found out is the case for all connection points they put on the vehicle (e.g. screw-in tow points, tie-downs, recovery or tow hitches).

The difference is the SAE and various standards have different ways to rate them. I didn't write it down, do you remember Paul if it was 50% or 100% of GVWR for these? My memory is 50% to avoid distorting the vehicle chassis, which is why it's questionable.

In any case the key being in a situation like this the three variables are:

• vehicle weigh
• slope
• surface

Weight is weight.

Slope is 25% of weight per 15° of slope.

Surface is 10% for pavement, 25% for grass or hard packed material, 50% for gravel, shallow snow or mud (only stuck at tread depth) and 200% for mud, sand, dense snow at hub depth. Highest regular case is body deep mire, which is 250% of weight.

Say the vehicle is packed to GVWR of 4,000 lbs, on a 15% slope and that's not quite mired to it's axles on hard packed snow, so likely to fall between 0.50 and 2. Say a straight 100% multipler for that. Totally willing to admit that if it's sitting on top of hard packed snow/ice it could also be in the 10% to 25% range, too. That's important to think about during assessment.

4000 x 0.25 + 4000 x 1.0 = 5,000 lbs estimated force. The pull you did may have been at 125% or 250% of its rating, so on the wrong side of capacity with negative safety margin.

BTW, since hard surface pulls are 10% of weight you can see how those don't need full GVWR. A 4,000 lbs GVWR vehicle getting pulled from pavement onto a 15% tilt aluminum flat bed needs to stand up to just 4000 * 0.10 + 4000 * 0.25 = 1400 lbs force.

Obviously the OEM builds in some margin, it's not a definite fuse per se.

 

[BritKLR]

You heard the same spiel as me from the same individual. So not putting words in anyone's mouth since I think it's safe to assume we both respect the source, the question comes down to multipliers for slope and mire factor.

All points are rated by the OEM based on GVM. Which as we found out is the case for all connection points they put on the vehicle (e.g. screw-in tow points, tie-downs, recovery or tow hitches).

The difference is the SAE and various standards have different ways to rate them. I didn't write it down, do you remember Paul if it was 50% or 100% of GVWR for these? My memory is 50% to avoid distorting the vehicle chassis, which is why it's questionable.

In any case the key being in a situation like this the three variables are:

• vehicle weigh
• slope
• surface

Weight is weight.

Slope is 25% of weight per 15° of slope.

Surface is 10% for pavement, 25% for grass or hard packed material, 50% for gravel, shallow snow or mud (only stuck at tread depth) and 200% for mud, sand, dense snow at hub depth. Highest regular case is body deep mire, which is 250% of weight.

Say the vehicle is packed to GVWR of 4,000 lbs, on a 15% slope and that's not quite mired to it's axles on hard packed snow, so likely to fall between 0.50 and 2. Say a straight 100% multipler for that. Totally willing to admit that if it's sitting on top of hard packed snow/ice it could also be in the 10% to 25% range, too. That's important to think about during assessment.

4000 x 0.25 + 4000 x 1.0 = 5,000 lbs estimated force. The pull you did may have been at 125% or 250% of its rating, so on the wrong side of capacity with negative safety margin.

BTW, since hard surface pulls are 10% of weight you can see how those don't need full GVWR. A 4,000 lbs GVWR vehicle getting pulled from pavement onto a 15% tilt aluminum flat bed needs to stand up to just 4000 * 0.10 + 4000 * 0.25 = 1400 lbs force.

Obviously the OEM builds in some margin, it's not a definite fuse per se.

Tru Dat! Good to finally meet you and great class!