2019 F350 4x4 custom HPI flatbed/AT Atlas topper

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
7' is plenty long. Better plan some flex into the mounting design.

To spring load ubolts, just use junkyard semi truck valve springs. I saw one larger overlander with a couple extra mounts on his bed that were pinned. He removed those pins to go off road. I got a laugh out of some of the fancy pivoting frames on here. Just use a couple leaf springs on one end.
 
Last edited:

Wallygator

Adventurer
Thanks for your feedback John.

We thought about the cassette toilet, we like the ease of dumping, but we already have a smaller Thetford porta-potti with "cassette" section in the bottom of it. We're thinking we'll upgrade to the 565e "Curve" Thetford porta potti, and modify the standard storage cabinet (to right of entryway) to accept the Curve on a slide-out tray.
Thx on your inside shower thoughts. If/when we need to shower inside (foul weather, winter), we'll probably fashion a shower curtain to hang from the ceiling, and step into a plastic tub and shower in it. Both of these will allow us maximum storage in the porta potti cabinet, and under-dinette floor storage area.
Good suggestion to throw the t.p. into a doggie bag vs the toilet, to save on waste volume capacity.

No king bed option, queen'ish is big enough for us.

2 Roof Mounted Solar Panels - 160 Watt w/ 30 AMP MPPT Controller $1995
(They mean 2 160W for total of 320W, as single 160W w/ 15A MPPT is $1050)
Overland Solar, which I'm told is a lower quality division of Victron.
It doesn't sound like the FWC solar wiring is very accessible, to allow us to upgrade the wiring to higher quality in upgrading to our own solar configuration. Currently torn on purchasing FWC's $1995 setup, or rolling dice and adding our own high quality solar components for less.

Good point about chassis cab and deeper below-frame storage!
Figuring out what to do on the spare tire situation. Asking for the flatbed to have a rear 9500lb winch, so might have "the engineering dept" get creative with some way to use it to hoist the spare(s) up/down from the flatbed deck.

Agreed on XL and vinyl floor, no chrome grille.
Wow, 2 ARB dual compressors? How many water wings are you blowing up for the kids at da beach? ;)

Yours is 6.2L as well (6.4L is the '08-10 turbo diesel that had a ton of issues).

Thanks for the suggestion on the Pro Eagle! I was expecting to get a beefy bottle jack w/ base for sand/snow. Do you have the 2ton Beast or 3ton Kratos? https://www.proeagle.com/collections/all

Airbag in rear susp; have considered it if needed, but hoping that with the Carli/Deaver susp, and keeping the build as light as possible, I wouldn't need them. If I do any, I think I'd look to Hellwig;
#6119, last product listed on this page; https://www.hellwigproducts.com/products/search-by-vehicle/page/2/?Year1=2019&Make=Ford&Model=F-350 Super Duty


I know it's expensive but I like this toilet. Pretty sanitary solution and everything goes in the trash. No dealing with fluids or chemicals and no dealing with separating the paper from the schiff. Anyway may be an option for you.

 

rruff

Explorer
Not saying you're wrong, but why would Ford only box the frame on the F250 (and prior) 150, and not the 350+?

Load capacity and intended use. These trucks are made to haul big loads primarily on the street. That means stiff springs with short travel. If the frame is also very stiff, then you don't have to be very "crossed-up" before all your weight is on two diagonal wheels, and the frame also needs to be very strong to keep from bending/breaking. If the frame is flexible torsionally then the wheels stay on the ground and it's easier to meet the needed strength requirements, which are primarily vertical rather than torsional. An I beam or C channel is the ideal shape for vertical loads.
 

kmacafee

Adventurer
If you contact them, they can provide you all the pics and info you would need. Heres one of mine. Want more? Check out the review written on TruckCamper Adventures web site.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200120_155447_651.jpg
    IMG_20200120_155447_651.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 106

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
7' is plenty long. Better plan some flex into the mounting design.

To spring load ubolts, just use junkyard semi truck valve springs. I saw one larger overlander with a couple extra mounts on his bed that were pinned. He removed those pins to go off road. I got a laugh out of some of the fancy pivoting frames on here. Just use a couple leaf springs on one end.

Plenty long for some, not long enough for me.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
I know it's expensive but I like this toilet. Pretty sanitary solution and everything goes in the trash. No dealing with fluids or chemicals and no dealing with separating the paper from the schiff. Anyway may be an option for you.


Thank you for the suggestion. I've seen them in Mario@AT's campers, and GooseGear has it in their 50Ten. A very nice piece of kit. Sadly it's about 3.5" too deep for the FWC cabinet to right of entry. :(

Nice thread, Jeremy. Good to know what you're up to. :)

Keep up the good work.

Thank you sir!

Damn! Now I'm thinking about getting an F350...

I hope I didn't cost you a lot of money! ;)
 

campertruck

New member
Hello,
You are having just as much fun planning and designing as you will actually have using the rig so enjoy the process. Here is what I learned in my years of trekking about, hope it helps.
Truck: I got the Ram 3500 chassis cab with the 6.4L hemi gas. 52 gallon rear tank, 4:44 gears, limited slip rear. Ambulance package, plow package, 4 door cab.
You can never have too much fuel... Ever! Get the largest tank possible. I get 10 mpg and I have a useful range of 450 miles with plenty of reserve on the road.
4 door cab: get it, we use it all the time without any hesitation. The dogs will thank you later.
Gas Engine: Enjoy the simplicity of it. No regrets. Owned many diesels and I’ve learned they

Bed: I had mine built by Martin welding in PA. They are a top notch family run business that can make anything you want. I’ve bought 2 from them. Super strong, best pricing I have found.
Solar: I go on month long trips and I have found the larger alternator you get with the chassis cab (220amp for mine) more than keeps the camper battery charged. I put an inverter in the truck and run many items off it. Never needed solar. Truck charges battery after full night of running heater in about 15 minutes.You can order dual alternators if you want.
Camper: I have seen some pretty nice pop up units but they all come back to canvas siding in the end. I know they can last a long time but they are the weak link. Alaska campers are something you might want to look at. Currently I have a hard side camper, all aluminum . I have to sacrifice due to the height restrictions but at this stage in life, it’s nice to just open the door and use the camper. I take the truck on the beaches of Cape Cod, fire roads through Nova Scotia, many many treks deep into the woods of Maine and never had an issue with the size, it’s always been the height.
Just my 2 cents worth.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Hello,
You are having just as much fun planning and designing as you will actually have using the rig so enjoy the process. Here is what I learned in my years of trekking about, hope it helps.
Truck: I got the Ram 3500 chassis cab with the 6.4L hemi gas. 52 gallon rear tank, 4:44 gears, limited slip rear. Ambulance package, plow package, 4 door cab.
You can never have too much fuel... Ever! Get the largest tank possible. I get 10 mpg and I have a useful range of 450 miles with plenty of reserve on the road.
4 door cab: get it, we use it all the time without any hesitation. The dogs will thank you later.
Gas Engine: Enjoy the simplicity of it. No regrets. Owned many diesels and I’ve learned they

Bed: I had mine built by Martin welding in PA. They are a top notch family run business that can make anything you want. I’ve bought 2 from them. Super strong, best pricing I have found.
Solar: I go on month long trips and I have found the larger alternator you get with the chassis cab (220amp for mine) more than keeps the camper battery charged. I put an inverter in the truck and run many items off it. Never needed solar. Truck charges battery after full night of running heater in about 15 minutes.You can order dual alternators if you want.
Camper: I have seen some pretty nice pop up units but they all come back to canvas siding in the end. I know they can last a long time but they are the weak link. Alaska campers are something you might want to look at. Currently I have a hard side camper, all aluminum . I have to sacrifice due to the height restrictions but at this stage in life, it’s nice to just open the door and use the camper. I take the truck on the beaches of Cape Cod, fire roads through Nova Scotia, many many treks deep into the woods of Maine and never had an issue with the size, it’s always been the height.
Just my 2 cents worth.

Thanks camper truck!

Good to hear on your fuel thoughts. I'm at 40gal, and if my plan for a cantilevered flatbed tray works out, I can not only have the spare back there, but also my 4 4gal Rotopax, for a total of 56gal of fuel onboard.

The reason I went RegularCab was because I was initially planning the custom cabin and figured I'd be able to do a 3/4 walk-thru, where the dogs could stay in the cabin and still get HVAC from front cab, thru the walk-thru...and as well, I was trying to keep OAL as short as possible. If I were to do it again with the direction I'm headed now (poptop camper), I probably would have gone with a SuperCab to make it easier (ie no custom tunnel box/doghouse needed). CrewCab gives even more space, but my concern with it is the much longer 176"WB on the Ford trucks with CrewCab (SuperCab about 164"ishWB). But alas, to sell my rig and buy a SuperCab would be upside down money-wise, so I'll just create my own SuperCab doghouse.

Your sentence about diesel trucks cut off...

What year is your 3500? I'm a bit surprised it's not outfitted with a larger alternator than 220A. But good to hear of your success with the 220A and no solar, since I'm currently at 240A and looking at solar. Unfortunately no dual alt option for the Ford gas like there is for the RAM gas(currently 380A).

Agreed with a downside to poptop campers being the canvas upper section, but after LOTS and LOTS of bench racing, and wanting to keep OAH as low as possible, I have to learn to deal with a compromise (poptop camper with canvas upper sides).
 

mobydick 11

Active member
I was wondering ,do you think that maybe it is that all 142 inch wheel base trucks have a boxed frame ?And if you go to the longer wheel base models that is when it becomes open ,or maybe duel wheels . My 142 inch came out of Kentucky and has a boxed frame,as viking said .So i went back to build my Ford ,so it is the box or no box that changes it .Cab and chassis f 350 will not come in 142 inch wheel base ,it is 145 inch in the shortest version . So if you want an f350 with the boxed frame you need to order regular cab with 8 foot box ,then pull the box.But maybe I am just confused again !
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
If I was buying a new truck, specifically for a flatbed camper box, I'd go with F350 chassis cab. Most likely DRW. Not buy a pickup, and then remove the bed. Pickups are all boxed, chassis cabs are all c channel to the best of my knowledge. I still prefer c channel for this application. Also note that DRW chassis cabs aren't as wide as DRW pickups in the rear. They'll steer and drive better.

Convert the DRW to super singles, maybe.

Mk, if you order the new gas Ford with dual batteries it upgrades your alternator to 400amps. I think it's a single alt, not sure though. I just wanted more power for a winch, and don't want to have to custom build another battery tray ever again.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
If I was buying a new truck, specifically for a flatbed camper box, I'd go with F350 chassis cab. Most likely DRW. Not buy a pickup, and then remove the bed. Pickups are all boxed, chassis cabs are all c channel to the best of my knowledge. I still prefer c channel for this application. Also note that DRW chassis cabs aren't as wide as DRW pickups in the rear. They'll steer and drive better.

Convert the DRW to super singles, maybe.

Mk, if you order the new gas Ford with dual batteries it upgrades your alternator to 400amps. I think it's a single alt, not sure though. I just wanted more power for a winch, and don't want to have to custom build another battery tray ever again.

Tell us more why you prefer C-channel for this application.

DRW to SuperSingles; this will work easiest if you get an F450/550, as you'll get 10lug, so you can choose from Hutchinson, Buckstop, 1st Attack, or DBL Design beadlocks (Stazworks--see Tom's Kodiak camper and the issues he's had with them. Rickson--some others here have had issues with them too). I don't know of any companies making SuperSingles for the 8lug F350.

"New gas Ford with dual batteries, and thus 400A alt"; are you talking about the newest 2020 7.3L? I'd doubt it'd be a single 400A alternator, only because RAM's dual alt's are at either 380A(HEMI gas) or 440A(Cummins diesel). Up to/including 2019, Ford only offered either xtraHD 200A or xtraxtraHD 240A single's for 6.2L gas, HD 240A single for 6.8L gas, or xtraHD 220A single or dualHD 332A(total) on 6.7L diesel.
*Updated; I just looked in the 2020 Ford SD pickup order guide I have (waiting for chassis-cab version, so you could be correct), and astonishingly, for the 6.2L still available, Ford has dropped from a 200A to 157A standard(XL/XLT), 200A(Lariat, KingRanch, Platinum), or 240A. 7.3L is 240A or optional 397A(believe this must be duals). 6.7L diesel is 175A, 240A, or dual 332A(total) or dual 397A(total). 332A(must be dual; Limited). Dual batts(750CCA.78aH) only available with 6.7L diesel. Anyways, a bit goofy to now have 6 alternator options. I digress.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,791
Messages
2,878,234
Members
225,352
Latest member
ritabooke
Top