2018 4Runner rear brake pads worn out in 15K miles...twice! Is this normal?

[dstock]

I posted this in a 4Runner forum but I thought I'd throw it out here as well....

Albeit this is our first Toyota, but at 15K and now at 30K the rear brake pads are worn out on our 2018 TRD Off-Road Premium. I can't find any posts to indicate this is normal and the dealership claims to have gone through the entire braking system to ensure everything is correct. Frankly, they seem baffled as well. I've owned quite a few vehicles over the years, and have never experienced such terrible brake pad life. Prior to the covid shutdown, the 4Runner was daily driven, mix of city and highway, and not driven "hard" by any means.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[phsycle]

Unless you drive with your left foot on the brake constantly, no, not normal.

Wonder how extensively the dealership checked the brake system. Is the caliper seized?

 

[Deleted member 9101]

Is it riding around at its max GVW?

 

[Dances with Wolves]

Are both sides wearing out at the same rate? One side wearing faster? Your post is vague.

 

[2.ooohhh]

On BMWs I found frequent activation of the “dynamic stability control” wore out rear pads tremendously quickly. Found several were driven hard by spouses/children’s when the owner’s weren’t behind the wheel. Could see a TRD Pro’s soft suspension exacerbating the same issue if equipped in a similar manner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[4runnerteq]

No. That's not normal. I'll check tomorrow, but a TSB for premature break wear seems familiar. Not saying there is, but seems like I remember something,

 

[4runnerteq]

Forgot I can log in from home now. Checked 17, 18 and 19. No TSBs

 

[dstock]

Unless you drive with your left foot on the brake constantly, no, not normal.

Wonder how extensively the dealership checked the brake system. Is the caliper seized?

I was thinking seized caliper as well because passenger side was squeaking regardless of the brakes being applied. The dealership claims to have gone through the system looking for caliper issues, etc. The first time they replaced them at 15k there was no noises to indicate they were worn.

I didn't see the pads myself, but the inspection sheet shows both pads at 3mm or less.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[dstock]

Is it riding around at its max GVW?

It's riding around completely stock and empty 95% of the time.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Deleted member 9101]

It's riding around completely stock and empty 95% of the time.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Then something is wrong. New vehicles use their rear brakes more than older ones did...but that shouldn't wear them out as fast as you are.

 

[dstock]

Forgot I can log in from home now. Checked 17, 18 and 19. No TSBs

Thanks for checking.

I am likely going to give the service manager a call as he is aware of the issue. They installed a different supposedly better Toyota pad this time and the dealership ate the cost of the pads and I paid for labor. Even if they screwed up the last brake pad replacement or doesn't explain what happened straight from the factory for the first 15k.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Deleted member 13060]

The 4 Runner has the same brakes that my FJ did.
Got rid of the FJ at 120K-ish miles.
It still had the original brake pads at all 4 corners with about 30% pad remaining....

You, have a problem. Figuring out what is causing the Abby Normal brake wear is the solution.

Several things to consider....
1. mismatched tires or tire pressures causing ABS/Traction control issues.
2. you don't drive as "mellow" as you think
3. a second driver's bad habits
4. a dealership that pays techs a bonus to up-sell. I had a customer that was told by a Mercedes (don't get me started on M/B's junk cars) dealership tech that she needed a multi thousand dollar brake job RIGHT now. 3 years and 25ish thousand miles later I put brakes on her car.
5. LOTS of stop and go

The chances of having 2 bad calipers on one nearly new vehicle is pretty dang slim.

As a 28 year veteran (retired last Wed) of being a Euro Car Tech (and a Toyota fan) who's seen a lot of shady things over the years... ALWAYS have the service writer check the box on the repair order that tells the tech you want the old parts. If in doubt take the old part to the Parts Dept and ask to see a new one.

YMMV RON

 

[IdaSHO]

Not sure if yours still has a mechanical proportioning valve, but I do know that with today's computer controlled traction control, on a RWD/4x4 you will wear the rears out faster than the front, even under normal driving.

The rears are engaged first, to prioritize steering input/response.
In theory, light/smooth braking (and unladen) will barely use the fronts, as the rears may be enough to slow the vehicle.
Heavier braking will encourage the traction control to use the fronts more.

 

[jeepers29]

Not sure if yours still has a mechanical proportioning valve, but I do know that with today's computer controlled traction control, on a RWD/4x4 you will wear the rears out faster than the front, even under normal driving.

The rears are engaged first, to prioritize steering input/response.
In theory, light/smooth braking (and unladen) will barely use the fronts, as the rears may be enough to slow the vehicle.
Heavier braking will encourage the traction control to use the fronts more.

The jeepJk's are know to wear out quickly due to this system. I put just under 60k on ours, a lot of those miles pulling a teardrop, before having to replace them. At 15k, something is wrong.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Are you feeling drag while driving? Getting really crappy gas mileage?

if I was to make a total internet guess, there is something wrong with your abs pump/module putting residual pressure on the rears

have you checked the temperature of the rotors after driving?

second internet guess is that your dealership is full of total .... find a new dealership or someone else to work on it.

another thought, on older cars I’ve seen degradation of the rubber lines create a mild “check valve” effect where the pressure of the master cyl can force through but doesn’t completely release... rare but it can happen to hoses

maybe you have a defective center rubber line dropping down to the differential?