2016 Tundra, coming along, but I have questions

[ROKDKTR]

So I have started the Tundra build for a couple of longer trip next year through Moab and Zion, out to Santa Monica, Oregon, etc. As well as overnighters in northern Alberta and BC when I get day or two breaks at work (I'm a field geologist, so I occasionally get days off in remote scenic areas of northern Canada).

I started with the dealership pre-installed Crewman platinum, Revtech levelling kit and 34 on 20 wheels and tires, KO2. I don't really want the 20's, but for reasons unexpected I have 3 spares now with 70% left, so I'll live with them until the tires are done. I added Airlift 5000's to the rear end for now to hold my gear, canopy and tent.

I went with the ARE CX-HD canopy, solid windoors for security, and put a Treeline Outdoors Redwood RTT with Annex on the truck. I added an ARB 63qt fridge as well. There were no solid good comparison of the ArkPak vs Goal Zero powerpaks aside from priced, so I ended up with both an ArkPak 730 with a rebranded Odyssey 105AH Deepcycle battery and Ark's 60w folding solar panel, as well as a Goal Zero 1400 lithium powerpak, a Badlands 100w briefcase panel and a Nomad 100 folding panel. I'll try and do a nice comparison write up on those later.

So far the CX-HD is moderately impressive, but the fit and finish on this canopy left a lot to be desired for the price. Rough finish and some areas left blotchy and messy. I can get it cleaned up but I was a little disappointed after the cost and the 6 week wait time.


I am going to be tuning the suspension over the winter now, and for the purpose of reliability and ride quality, I'm deciding if I go full blown super-ride adjustable shows that require rebuilds and fine tuning, or a quality reliable and far less expensive shocks that will get me where I'm going all the time. I'm not racing. So far factory shocks just eem to fade too fast on rougher longer roads.


Now my questions. Whats the best way to run a pass-through port on the canopy doors? A basic RV passthrough, or is there a nicer waterproof model to get for this application? I want to be able to charge and plug in the powerpaks while they are inside without running more cabling out to the front end of the truck permanently.

Any tips on the shock choices? I always liked Bilstein and OME on other vehicles, but this Toyota is new to me. I already have Total Chaos UCA's ready to install as well.

 

[Trikebubble]

Wow, nice truck. I just bought a 2014 lease return TRD double cab and after much (way too much) research ending up buying ADS Racing remote res front coilovers, and their piggyback triple bypass rear shocks. I also have a set of Dakar springs, airbags, MCM Fab uca's, and new tires and wheels all waiting for me to install in two weeks.
I had narrowed it down to the King and ADS shocks based on having a one time windfall to do this up very well the first time, and wanting good shocks that will take hundreds of km's of gravel and forestry road without fading out.
I will also be ordering a Four Wheel Camper Saturday, so I wanted the Dakar leaf packs and airbags to help adjust for that added weight. Everything I have read about about the ADS shocks tells me they are among the best, and should do the job the for me over the years to come.

 

[eaneumann]

Nice truck! I'll keep an eye on this one. I have Kings on mine. Kinda a waste for what we do. I would probably go OME on my next one. The Kings are amazing, but with the heavy loads they are overkill for sure on an overland rig. They are rebuildable, but they should have the oil and seals changed every 20-30k miles, yearly for most of us.


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[ROKDKTR]

More updates. I've gotten the awing and bedslide mounted, and a tray on th bedslide to hold the fridge and power packs above the ladder and table. The rig also has to also double for work, I'm a field geologist, so I have to load out for work, then convert over to travel and camping. I'm hoping to find the best of both worlds.

I'm currently looking at the Fox 2.5's, custom valved for the way the truck is setup at this point, with the DSC adjusters. I'm going to look into the OME stuff more this fall before I order.

I'm looking for advice on lightweight panels for the rear shelf (on the bedside). I am using plywood at the moment for testing, but I'd like to get something lighter once I get the dimensions figured out after some real world usage. Aluminium honeycomb seems to be the ticket but I can't find a vendor. Any other suggestions for a 60x60" rigid panel? Or a section of a couple panels working out to that size? I'm going to look at buying a used BakFlip or Extang Solid Fold and cutting it up to use the lightweight corrugated polymer panels for the deck/shelf, but one piece would be nice. On the other hand, the used tonneau might be cheaper than a full panel once I factor in the bad dollar and shipping.

The two large bolts in behind the tire are the mount for the TredPro traction aids. So far I'm loving the Hitchgate. Very well made and solid. Mounting the Treds was simply a matter of building a plate to mount them too off of the existing holes. The awning bracket were simple too, I had my favourite fabricator make me some 1/4 aluminum brackets that utilise the T-track system in my canopy rack to mount it higher than the roofline. I had to leave clearance for my side Windoor.

 

[rruff]

I'm looking for advice on lightweight panels for the rear shelf (on the bedside). I am using plywood at the moment for testing, but I'd like to get something lighter once I get the dimensions figured out after some real world usage. Aluminium honeycomb seems to be the ticket but I can't find a vendor. Any other suggestions for a 60x60" rigid panel?

Carbon Core sells PP honeycomb panels with either fiberglass or plywood skins. They aren't that cheap to start with, and shipping on a single sheet would likely be expensive.

Better option IMO would be a closed cell styrofoam (like Foamular), texture it well (I used a carpet seam roller and a wallpaper perforator) spread lots of PLPremium (I used a notched trowel) and glue on luan skins with wood around the edges. Wet lay some light fiberglass for durability, or paint it with bed liner.

BTW, OME shocks are not in the same league as Fox, King, Icon, ADS 2.5s. I would pick ADS over the others.

 

[rruff]

The Kings are amazing, but with the heavy loads they are overkill for sure on an overland rig. They are rebuildable, but they should have the oil and seals changed every 20-30k miles, yearly for most of us.

Why do you say they are overkill? In the west there are long stretches of bumpy washboard roads that overwhelm smaller shocks. Adjustable preload and damping can be very useful features as well. If you are just going slow then they'd probably not be worth it.

They recommend regular rebuilding, but I'm pretty sure a rebuild will last as long as the OMEs (which you'd then have to throw away).

 

[eaneumann]

Why do you say they are overkill? In the west there are long stretches of bumpy washboard roads that overwhelm smaller shocks. Adjustable preload and damping can be very useful features as well. If you are just going slow then they'd probably not be worth it.

They recommend regular rebuilding, but I'm pretty sure a rebuild will last as long as the OMEs (which you'd then have to throw away).

I live in Colorado and travel all over the west (just got back from a 3k mile trip). If I’m unloaded, I definitely use the shocks to their full potential. But once you have 1200 pounds of dogs and gear, you’re not going down forest service roads at 40-50 mph anymore. I’ve had my Kings for 70k hard miles. They have been a very good shock for me, I’m just not sure they are worth the money for what most of us do. Everyone pushes that they’re rebuildable, which they are, but it’s not cheap or easy. If you’re mechanically inclined, you can buy the tools and parts to do it. About a $500 investment, then having no knowledge of how the shock actually works and identifying what needs replacing or rebuilding. I’m an auto professional and I don’t rebuild them myself. Or taking them off and bringing them to a specialist, which is $125 a shock for a basic oil and seal change. I have a guy in Denver that does mine. Or you can ship them off to King for 2 weeks. If you need them to take them off or if they need other parts, it’s even more money. I’ve had OME suspensions go for 100k miles easy. ARB has a product designed specifically for what we do. You will be 100% happy going King, Fox, Icon. Just be aware that they are not a bolt on and go 100k miles product. Sorry.


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[rruff]

Or taking them off and bringing them to a specialist, which is $125 a shock for a basic oil and seal change.

How often did you need to do that? Have you had leaks or other issues? Do you remove and install the struts yourself? That typically runs $150-$200 for the pair (some shops want to charge a lot more!).

I've been researching this, and the fancy coilovers have little warranty (Kings are 90 days, Icon are 1 year, and I haven't found mention of any on Fox and ADS). OMEs are 3 years at least. Plus, buying a replacement OME would be easier in the middle of a long trip than trying to get a coilover serviced.

BTW, I'll be driving fast with a load. I keep my stuff cinched down.

 

[eaneumann]

How often did you need to do that? Have you had leaks or other issues? Do you remove and install the struts yourself? That typically runs $150-$200 for the pair (some shops want to charge a lot more!).

I've been researching this, and the fancy coilovers have little warranty (Kings are 90 days, Icon are 1 year, and I haven't found mention of any on Fox and ADS). OMEs are 3 years at least. Plus, buying a replacement OME would be easier in the middle of a long trip than trying to get a coilover serviced.

BTW, I'll be driving fast with a load. I keep my stuff cinched down.

King told me when they leak or make noise (what??). My shock guy told me every 25-30k miles with actual usage. When I had mine done at 30, he said that it was perfect timing for mine and that I should stick to right around there. I’m past due for another. I take mine off myself and drive them down to Denver. He was able to rebuild them in a few hours. Denver is a few hours away for me. I’m not sure what King charges. My suspension is way too soft to go fast loaded up. King 2.5s and Icon rear add a leafs.


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[rruff]

I take mine off myself and drive them down to Denver. He was able to rebuild them in a few hours.

If there were convenient places where I could drive in and have it done, I think it would be more appealing.

Did you notice a difference after the rebuild? I would guess the rebuild interval is to maintain optimum performance. I doubt they would deteriorate faster than OMEs but I could be wrong.

 

[ROKDKTR]

Here in Calgary I've ben told King and Fox rebuild every 50,000km or so, so 30,000 miles. I'm going to weigh all of my options before I decide.

 

[eaneumann]

If there were convenient places where I could drive in and have it done, I think it would be more appealing.

Did you notice a difference after the rebuild? I would guess the rebuild interval is to maintain optimum performance. I doubt they would deteriorate faster than OMEs but I could be wrong.

Yes, for sure. Mine were leaking nitrogen at that mileage.

 

[plainjaneFJC]

A regular shocked used as intended seems to last longer than a rebuildable shock used as intended.

 

[Clutch]

Here in Calgary I've ben told King and Fox rebuild every 50,000km or so, so 30,000 miles. I'm going to weigh all of my options before I decide.

Maybe even sooner, the winter deicer is really hard on the seals and heims. Have coil overs on my truck, pulling them and going with OME's. Could push the rebuild intervals longer when I lived in AZ, now in Idaho, seems like it has been cut in half. Two things have changed, it is wetter here in the winter, and deicer. Depending where you go...it is either sodium or mag chloride. That and they grit the road too.

I also drive 25K a year, so I have to rebuild them about every 14-15 months.

 

[ROKDKTR]

Lots of good info. Makes it harder to decide though.

Mostly being loaded for either work or camping, the trucks packing near or a capacity ever time it goes out of the city.

I'm thinking just going Toyota TRD for warranty reasons. I have the airbags in the back but would take them out of I found a leaf pack that would not sag with the weight. Local shop is really pushing the Fox 2.5 but getting them rebuilt with my schedule can be tough. Late I've only even had 4-5 days off at a time and with work I can't afford a surprise “your shocks aren't done”.

What about Fox 2.0 and just change them every couple years?

Is there a model of OME kit to get?