2016 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71

SoTxAg06

Active member
That's a good idea

Do the Trail Boss trucks have the same size mounting bolt hole?

How much lift do they come with ?

What brand factory shocks are they sold with?
The trail boss trucks have a 2” block in the back, and uses the same style rancho shock as the Z71, but with a longer shaft. Not 100% sure about the bolt size, but being it’s the same axles as a Z71, I’m guessing they’re the same.


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D45

Explorer
So the Trail Boss uses a 2" rear block and my truck has a 1-1/4" rear block...…..I thought it would be more than a 3/4" difference in height!

I will be using a 2.5" block with my lift, netting a 1-1/4" lift (over stock)

I likely wont even waste time or money on some Trail Boss take off Ranchos...….those shocks never impressed me
 

D45

Explorer
Now I am wondering what size rear blocks!

I DO NOT want the truck level, but rather a 1" rake or so...…….2", 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" rear blocks

2" blocks will yield a 3/4" rear lift
2-1/4" blocks will yield a 1" rear lift
2-1/2" blocks will yield a 1-1/4" rear lift

Here are some numbers (full 26 gallon tank of fuel):

Measurements with cap installed:
Driver Front: 36.250”
Passenger Front: 35.875”
Driver Rear: 37.875”
Passenger Rear: 38.125”

So the factory rake has the rear setting about 1.620" / 2.250" taller (depending on the side)

Front with 2.5” Spacers:
Driver Front: 38.750”
Passenger Front: 38.375”

Rear with 2.0” Blocks (3/4” Lift):
Driver Rear: 39.875”……………….…1-1/8” taller than front
Passenger Rear: 40.125”…………..1-3/4” taller than front

Rear with 2.25" Blocks (1" lift):
Driver Rear: 40.375"...……………….2-1/4" taller than front
Passenger Rear: 40.375"......……..2-1/4" taller than front

Rear with 2.5” Blocks (1-1/4” lift):
Driver Rear: 40.375”…………………..2-1/2” taller than front
Passenger Rear: 40.625”…………….2-1/2” taller than front
 

D45

Explorer
I am leaning towards the 2-1/4" block right now

I don't think the 2" block will be enough for me

The 2.5" tall block seems like it will be too much of a rake
 

D45

Explorer
I need to do much more research and likely spend more money

My truck has the factory stamped steel upper control arms

I have read stories about the ball joint becoming un-seated from the stamped steel control arms...…..and I obviously do not want this to happen.

Who makes UCA that will allow me to run my factory 18" wheels?
 

MichaelK10

New member
I need to do much more research and likely spend more money

My truck has the factory stamped steel upper control arms

I have read stories about the ball joint becoming un-seated from the stamped steel control arms...…..and I obviously do not want this to happen.

Who makes UCA that will allow me to run my factory 18" wheels?
Check the Cognito UCAs- I have the balljoint version that replaces the factory aluminum control arms, and they work with the factory 17" rims. Added benefit would be getting a better balljoint angle after your level. The Cognito arms are beefy and a good price.
 
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D45

Explorer
Cognito products seem well built also

$500 for a pair......I like the greaseable bushings and greaseable ball joint

Ball joints are also bolt in.......are they common parts store joints?
 

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D45

Explorer
I did a Google search, Rock Auto search, and an Ebay search for the part number on my stamped steel control arms:
23420264

Looks like the aluminum control arms will interchange
 

Burb One

Adventurer
I like my cognitos a lot on my GMT800.

Yes- at least on the GMT800- the balljoint is off the shelf and bolt in. Nice to be able to replace it in the field if every necessary.

I also highly recommend airbags. I used to have sumo inserts but found that on the larger lifted springs- it started bending the spring the wrong way.

I went to air bags(the in coil ones) and haven't looked back. It's awesome being able to adjust te rear end to what I'm carrying. Over 20k miles- many of them off road and high articulation and no leaks or anything. I didn't add air for ~6-8 months and they lost maybe a few psi.
 

MichaelK10

New member
Cognito arms also require me to ream and drill the knuckle to accept the ball joint
Not the standard replacement balljoint arm- maybe if you're looking at the uniball?

There's a difference in the knuckles depending which type factory arm you have (stamped vs steel vs aluminum), the Cognito arms I got for my aluminum arm truck bolted right in without having to ream the knuckles.
 

MichaelK10

New member

The install link in pdf is towards the bottom

I have to ream out the taper and also have to do some cutting and notching
Bummer. A mechanic I know says the balljoint shaft for the steel arms is just a hair thinner than on the balljoints they use with the aluminum arms- thanks GM... Maybe the Cognito arms fit both applications, just in your case it requires the reaming of the knuckle?
 
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