2007 Yukon XL K1500 low lift with 37"s
- Thread starter CrazyDrei
- Start date
CrazyDrei
Space Monkey
Front 2" lift: adjustable Bilstein 5100s
One of the goals for this truck was to install a level kit that raises or levels the truck by increasing the preload on the coils or adding spacers. I am going to break this up into two separate write ups: front and rear.
This is how Yukon sits completely stock, OEM front and rear shocks and coils.
My driveway seems to be a little crooked so I will be measuring the heights in the same spot throughout the build. Ground to fender heights as follows:
Front Driver: 34.5"
Rear Driver: 37.5"
Front Pass: 36.5"
Rear Pass: 35.5"
To keep up with the spirit of stuffing 37s under the Yukon, this is how 37" tires fit and sit in the completely stock wheel wells of a completely stock Yukon. Needless to say it is not derivable this way but the tires are on just for a reference. I also kept stock 265/70R17 tires on passenger side so these numbers are not 100% accurate but a good visual representation of the process and progress.
Ground to fender:
Driver front: 37.5"
Driver rear: 40.0"
Bilstein 5100 adjustable front shocks part number: 24-186940. They usually sell for $132 each shipped however I managed to find this pair of open box shocks for $135 shipped.
Jacked up, not so much front wheel travel at all, most important reason for eventually running 37" tires: 6" extra usable front axle travel for a fraction of the price of a long travel kit.
Front strut is out, I did disconnect outer tie rod from the knuckle just for ease of access. I will be disconnecting the upper control arm when I re-install the new struts.
Struts go in a specific way, this zig-zag isolator must face out, take note prior to disassembly and during reassembly.
OEM and Bilstein side by side. OEM is 17.5" long from top of lower perch to bottom of threads. Bilstein is 18.25" long.
Bilstein top.
Bilstein bottom.
Assembled Bilstein 5100 front strut. Adjustable perch is set to the highest setting which is supposed to be an average of 1.75" of lift.
My target was 3" of lift up front so I also added a lower strut spacer for an extra 1" of lift. However once I bolted everything up and took a step back I realized that the upper control arms were pushing down on the lower limiting perches. I did not want that much stress on the upper control arms so I popped the 1" spacers out.
Strut bolted up without any spacers. I can always add the spacers at a later time.
Both front struts are in. Rear end is still OEM.
Ground to fender after just front struts:
Driver front: 36.5"
Driver rear: 38.0"
I didn't measure passenger side. Not sure why the rear height increased, i am sure both will settle after a couple hundred miles.
Front end sits noticeably higher and looks much better.
This was a relatively fun process and I am happy with the results. Rear end lift/level is also done and I will post that write up next.
Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
One of the goals for this truck was to install a level kit that raises or levels the truck by increasing the preload on the coils or adding spacers. I am going to break this up into two separate write ups: front and rear.
This is how Yukon sits completely stock, OEM front and rear shocks and coils.
My driveway seems to be a little crooked so I will be measuring the heights in the same spot throughout the build. Ground to fender heights as follows:
Front Driver: 34.5"
Rear Driver: 37.5"
Front Pass: 36.5"
Rear Pass: 35.5"
To keep up with the spirit of stuffing 37s under the Yukon, this is how 37" tires fit and sit in the completely stock wheel wells of a completely stock Yukon. Needless to say it is not derivable this way but the tires are on just for a reference. I also kept stock 265/70R17 tires on passenger side so these numbers are not 100% accurate but a good visual representation of the process and progress.
Ground to fender:
Driver front: 37.5"
Driver rear: 40.0"
Bilstein 5100 adjustable front shocks part number: 24-186940. They usually sell for $132 each shipped however I managed to find this pair of open box shocks for $135 shipped.
Jacked up, not so much front wheel travel at all, most important reason for eventually running 37" tires: 6" extra usable front axle travel for a fraction of the price of a long travel kit.
Front strut is out, I did disconnect outer tie rod from the knuckle just for ease of access. I will be disconnecting the upper control arm when I re-install the new struts.
Struts go in a specific way, this zig-zag isolator must face out, take note prior to disassembly and during reassembly.
OEM and Bilstein side by side. OEM is 17.5" long from top of lower perch to bottom of threads. Bilstein is 18.25" long.
Bilstein top.
Bilstein bottom.
Assembled Bilstein 5100 front strut. Adjustable perch is set to the highest setting which is supposed to be an average of 1.75" of lift.
My target was 3" of lift up front so I also added a lower strut spacer for an extra 1" of lift. However once I bolted everything up and took a step back I realized that the upper control arms were pushing down on the lower limiting perches. I did not want that much stress on the upper control arms so I popped the 1" spacers out.
Strut bolted up without any spacers. I can always add the spacers at a later time.
Both front struts are in. Rear end is still OEM.
Ground to fender after just front struts:
Driver front: 36.5"
Driver rear: 38.0"
I didn't measure passenger side. Not sure why the rear height increased, i am sure both will settle after a couple hundred miles.
Front end sits noticeably higher and looks much better.
This was a relatively fun process and I am happy with the results. Rear end lift/level is also done and I will post that write up next.
Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
CrazyDrei
Space Monkey
President Bill CB radio install.
In my previous Suburban I installed a froward firing speaker CB radio in the space where the tape deck used to be. Do not have such a thing in the Yukon. Next choice was just above the driver's windshield visor, so it's tucked up and out of the way, however even with the slim bracket it's not flush enough for what I envisioned.
I decided to mount it in the overhead console that way I can hear the down firing speaker nice and loud.
I notched out a couple slots so I can still program and use HomeLink garage door opener.
GM usually uses an orange wire as a positive feed in the cab and black as the ground.
Yep, I have power, don't mind the voltage, it came up to 12.67V shortly after I took the picture.
I cut the power wire off the radio and made a pigtail quick connector.
Female quick connector attached to the overhead control panel.
Radio in the bracket and hooked into the truck connector.
This is where the quick connector wires are coming out from on the other side of the panel.
Don't judge but I really like using these blue clamp/crimp connectors. You do have to check continuity after connecting them, and I ended up re-crimping the negative because it didn't go through one of the wire on my first try.
I made an incision with a scalpel and drilled a hole for antenna wire. Fed antenna wire through the slit and seated it in the hole.
Same as the old Suburban, I pulled back the weatherstripping, cut a hole in the upper edge in the sheet metal, ran the antenna wire through insulating it against sharp edges with duct tape.
Antenna is hooked up. I do not have a SWR meter to calibrate this antenna but it was calibrated to my old Cobra, so it should be OK for now.
I did not like the angle of antenna wire so I added this 90 degree elbow to keep the area less cluttered.
This is how the bracket looks once everything is buttoned back up.
Radio is in the bracket and plugged in. Everything works as it should, however the sound volume is much lower than what I expected it to be. Will have to run a dedicated power line from the battery to the CB in the near future.
Even though I wanted to permanently wire the CB into the truck I went with a semi-permanent option just so I have the option of taking it out or swapping it between vehicles.
Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
In my previous Suburban I installed a froward firing speaker CB radio in the space where the tape deck used to be. Do not have such a thing in the Yukon. Next choice was just above the driver's windshield visor, so it's tucked up and out of the way, however even with the slim bracket it's not flush enough for what I envisioned.
I decided to mount it in the overhead console that way I can hear the down firing speaker nice and loud.
I notched out a couple slots so I can still program and use HomeLink garage door opener.
GM usually uses an orange wire as a positive feed in the cab and black as the ground.
Yep, I have power, don't mind the voltage, it came up to 12.67V shortly after I took the picture.
I cut the power wire off the radio and made a pigtail quick connector.
Female quick connector attached to the overhead control panel.
Radio in the bracket and hooked into the truck connector.
This is where the quick connector wires are coming out from on the other side of the panel.
Don't judge but I really like using these blue clamp/crimp connectors. You do have to check continuity after connecting them, and I ended up re-crimping the negative because it didn't go through one of the wire on my first try.
I made an incision with a scalpel and drilled a hole for antenna wire. Fed antenna wire through the slit and seated it in the hole.
Same as the old Suburban, I pulled back the weatherstripping, cut a hole in the upper edge in the sheet metal, ran the antenna wire through insulating it against sharp edges with duct tape.
Antenna is hooked up. I do not have a SWR meter to calibrate this antenna but it was calibrated to my old Cobra, so it should be OK for now.
I did not like the angle of antenna wire so I added this 90 degree elbow to keep the area less cluttered.
This is how the bracket looks once everything is buttoned back up.
Radio is in the bracket and plugged in. Everything works as it should, however the sound volume is much lower than what I expected it to be. Will have to run a dedicated power line from the battery to the CB in the near future.
Even though I wanted to permanently wire the CB into the truck I went with a semi-permanent option just so I have the option of taking it out or swapping it between vehicles.
Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
CrazyDrei
Space Monkey
Rear end adventures!
From left to right: Bilstein stickers, 3" coil spacers below, 2" coil spacers top, rear sway bar links, Bilstein 5100 shocks 24-187237, Moog HD coils 81069, Z71 OEM coil from a different truck.
So initially I decided to do a split the level kit install into two parts, front and rear. Now I will be splitting it into 3 parts, front, rear shocks and HD coils and finally 2" coil spacers and shock limiting straps.
This part was kinda boring since I have done it so many times on 00-06 GM SUVs and this install was identical. I didn't take too many pictures but did shoot some video, which I will edit and upload when I get around to it.
Here are the steps for anyone brave enough to undertake this endeavour themselves.
Jack up rear end by frame
Remove wheels
Disconnect sway bar links
Remove lower shock bolts
Remove upper shock bolts
Disconnect ABS sensor wires from frame connectors
Jack up one side of axle and pull out opposite coil
Reinstall new coil with OEM isolators if they are not torn
Repeat with other side
BEFORE LEVEL LIFT
AFTER FRONT LEVEL LIFT and new rear coils and shocks
Ground to fender heights
STOCK Front 1.75" lift, HD rear coils
Front Driver: 34.5" 36.5"
Rear Driver: 37.5" 38.0"
Front Pass: 36.5" 37.5"
Rear Pass: 35.5" 37.5"
So after installing the level kit, Yukon is actually sitting much more level. Difference between lowest and highest fender is 1.5" after the level compared to 3" before the level.
Now just to see the progress of how much more room I need for 37" tires I slapped them on again.
BEFORE FRONT 2" LIFT
AFTER FRONT 2" LIFT and new rear coils.
37" tire ground to fender:
STOCK Front 1.75" lift, HD rear coils
Driver front: 37.5" 39.5"
Driver rear: 40.0" 41.5"
So with just a 2" lift up front I have the same 4.5" top of tire to bottom of fender clearance as I did with no lift and 265/70R17 OEM tires.
Next step will be to drive around and let everything settle. Hopefully a week or two and a couple thousand miles will be enough to make a final decision if I will be running a 2" or 3" rear coil spacer. I want to keep the center of gravity as low as I possibly can and strongly leaning towards the 2" coil spacer in the rear.
Another concern would be how much the Yukon will squat in the rear once there is cargo in the back and that will influence the rear coil spacer height more than anything else.
Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
From left to right: Bilstein stickers, 3" coil spacers below, 2" coil spacers top, rear sway bar links, Bilstein 5100 shocks 24-187237, Moog HD coils 81069, Z71 OEM coil from a different truck.
So initially I decided to do a split the level kit install into two parts, front and rear. Now I will be splitting it into 3 parts, front, rear shocks and HD coils and finally 2" coil spacers and shock limiting straps.
This part was kinda boring since I have done it so many times on 00-06 GM SUVs and this install was identical. I didn't take too many pictures but did shoot some video, which I will edit and upload when I get around to it.
Here are the steps for anyone brave enough to undertake this endeavour themselves.
Jack up rear end by frame
Remove wheels
Disconnect sway bar links
Remove lower shock bolts
Remove upper shock bolts
Disconnect ABS sensor wires from frame connectors
Jack up one side of axle and pull out opposite coil
Reinstall new coil with OEM isolators if they are not torn
Repeat with other side
BEFORE LEVEL LIFT
AFTER FRONT LEVEL LIFT and new rear coils and shocks
Ground to fender heights
STOCK Front 1.75" lift, HD rear coils
Front Driver: 34.5" 36.5"
Rear Driver: 37.5" 38.0"
Front Pass: 36.5" 37.5"
Rear Pass: 35.5" 37.5"
So after installing the level kit, Yukon is actually sitting much more level. Difference between lowest and highest fender is 1.5" after the level compared to 3" before the level.
Now just to see the progress of how much more room I need for 37" tires I slapped them on again.
BEFORE FRONT 2" LIFT
AFTER FRONT 2" LIFT and new rear coils.
37" tire ground to fender:
STOCK Front 1.75" lift, HD rear coils
Driver front: 37.5" 39.5"
Driver rear: 40.0" 41.5"
So with just a 2" lift up front I have the same 4.5" top of tire to bottom of fender clearance as I did with no lift and 265/70R17 OEM tires.
Next step will be to drive around and let everything settle. Hopefully a week or two and a couple thousand miles will be enough to make a final decision if I will be running a 2" or 3" rear coil spacer. I want to keep the center of gravity as low as I possibly can and strongly leaning towards the 2" coil spacer in the rear.
Another concern would be how much the Yukon will squat in the rear once there is cargo in the back and that will influence the rear coil spacer height more than anything else.
Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
CrazyDrei
Space Monkey
al_burpe,
White is a Chevy front end, identical to an Avalanche, gold is the GMC front end. I like the GMC grill better for my application because I have a perfect spot in it to mount a 36" light bar without impeding the cooling airflow or chopping up the grill itself like I did with the my 2000 Sub.
If you are referring to the older cateye Avalanche front end that I did on my 2000 Sub, it might be a possibility to explore when I pull the fenders off and see if they are anywhere even close to lining up with 07 Yukon body lines. I do have plenty of parts laying around, so when I get around to that stage I'll play around and see what fits and what doesn't. I am a huge sucker for my Raptor bumper and would not be surprised if it ends up on the Yukon sometime down the line.
Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
ratled
Adventurer
"Don't judge but I really like using these blue clamp/crimp connectors. You do have to check continuity after connecting them, and I ended up re-crimping the negative because it didn't go through one of the wire on my first try."
Don't fret, many of us out there love the suit case connectors (really called IDC). Enjoying following along!
Don't fret, many of us out there love the suit case connectors (really called IDC). Enjoying following along!
Mighty Dodge Ram
Explorer
I’ll be following your new build. My wife daily drives our ‘10 Suburban Z71, closing in on 180k miles. No big issues, AFM has behaved itself so far and the 5.3 is still strong. I regularly service the 6-speed so it drives fine so far. Since I use my longbed 2500HD more as a truck compared to a camping vehicle I’m considering “liberating” the Burb when my wife finds something new. Your trip reports have opened my eyes to the offroad capabilities of this vehicle.?
CrazyDrei
Space Monkey
Regcabguy,
Why do you suggest I upgrade the brakes to powerstops?
My brake goal in a vehicle is to be able to lock up the brakes, I have exactly the same rotors and calipers as 2007 Yukon on my 2000 Suburban and can lock up all 4 37" on dirt and occasionally on pavement. Only other brake upgrade I would consider is hydroboost which is something I am looking into also.
CrazyDrei
Space Monkey
Mighty Dodge Ram,
I wish I had a later year Yukon so I had the 6 speed tranny, but for the price I paid for mine I can not complain. Also, just did 500 miles today and AFM is still working and doesn't sound too bad.
I am glad I can show you the Sub's off road capability. Keep in mind that a 6" diff drop, 35" or 37" tires and a detroit locker will get you places most Jeep owners only dream of actually driving. I am just cheap, and rather spend the money on gas and adventures rather than bolt ons.
I want to see pictures of the Z71 Burb and your adventures in it.
al_burpe
Observer
I forgot that on the later Avalanches that they had the same front end as the Suburban. I was thinking that your new rig would be interesting with the old Avalanche front end, but swapping them is probably not near as straight forward as your old Suburban was. Between the two pictures of your rigs above, I do prefer the Chevy front end, but I am just some dude on the internet who enjoys the interesting things you do to your rigs.al_burpe,
White is a Chevy front end, identical to an Avalanche, gold is the GMC front end. I like the GMC grill better for my application because I have a perfect spot in it to mount a 36" light bar without impeding the cooling airflow or chopping up the grill itself like I did with the my 2000 Sub.
If you are referring to the older cateye Avalanche front end that I did on my 2000 Sub, it might be a possibility to explore when I pull the fenders off and see if they are anywhere even close to lining up with 07 Yukon body lines. I do have plenty of parts laying around, so when I get around to that stage I'll play around and see what fits and what doesn't. I am a huge sucker for my Raptor bumper and would not be surprised if it ends up on the Yukon sometime down the line.
Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
CrazyDrei
Space Monkey
al_burpe,
I really do want to figure out if it is possible to get the old Avalanche front end on the Yukon, if it's possible without too much custom work I just might have to do it.
I also agree that the Chevy front end looks better than that of GMC, but I am going to hide my 36" light bar in the grill and it fits perfectly in the current grill and will not in the Chevy grill without too much cutting.
I have an ever evolving idea of what I want to do in my head but in reality it all changes when I start taking things apart and actually playing with them.
Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
frink84
Active member
Excited to see yet another crazy CrazyDrei build! Didn't the Mexican GMT900 Suburbans run cat-eye front ends? I wouldn't be surprised if it all bolts right up.