2006 Hot Shot Crew Truck - Sold

Trestle

Active member
I have a 2006 (pre-DPF, pre-DEF) International 7300 truck that I am offering up for sale.

Location: Near Sun Valley, Idaho

Asking: $19,000 OBRO

Known issues: two chips in windshield smaller than a dime, driver door requires extra effort to close sometimes, bulb that backlights the fuel gage when the lights are on is out, the color is not my first choice.

Clear title, vehicle is available to drive until the registration expires on July 31st.

I purchased this about a year ago, have not gotten to the build out yet, and have my eye on another vehicle. If this does not sell, I'll build it out as intended. If the other vehicle sells, I'll likely pull this down and do the build once I have the bandwidth. I currently have it listed on e-bay, but they may not be the best crowd.

From the E-bay ad:
Built for the US Forest Service for use by a 10-person Hot Shot crew with all of their gear, this truck was stationed in New Mexico, maintained by the Forest Service, and was retired and sent to auction. I purchased the truck with the intent to modify the rear box for a trip from Alaska to Baja and other overland/expedition type trips. The box is steel 2" square tubing, steel panels on the inside and roof, and aluminum panels on the front/sides/rear. The floor is at least 3/16" steel with a diamond plate down the center aisle. As it sits, it is just under 11' tall, so plenty of room to raise the roof for a cab-over. Would make a great vehicle for beat up back roads travel, or travel into countries where they do not have Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel fuel that modern day rigs require due to the DPF and DEF systems.

Could also be used as a tool truck, walk in work truck, service body (with minimal modification), water truck, or a dump if you want to tap into the PTO already fitted to the transmission.

  • Pre-DPF, Pre-Adblue emissions (so you don’t have to deal with those emissions maintenance nightmares)
  • DT466 I-6 Turbo Diesel (termed “the Legend” due to longevity and ability to rebuild in the frame)
  • 171” Wheelbase, 94” Center Axle
  • 255 HP, 660 FT/LB Torque
  • Allison 3500 5-speed w/ PTO and deep sump, Rated 80,000GCW push-button automatic (rated as extreme duty for a truck of this weight class)
  • 2-stage transmission retarder
  • Engine Compression Brake (these things usually don’t have an engine brake and transmission retarder at the same time, so bonus)
  • Miles: 212,263
  • Hours: 7,118
  • Dana 19,000 LB rear axle with factory rear locker
  • 10,000 LB front axle
  • Originally rated for 29k GVWR, de-rated to 26k for non-CDL driver, can be re-rated or driven privately without CDL.
  • Air ride rear suspension with dump valve, air ride driver and passenger seats.
  • Entire cabin sound deadened with Fatmat.
  • Built for the US Forest Service to haul Hot Shot crew members around, was assigned to New Mexico, no rust, no mechanical issues.
  • Seriously overbuilt to protect crew members in the event of a roll over.
  • Box is torsionally isolated from frame with spring system. Rear box is 6’ 2.5” standing height, 7.8’ wide, 14’ long internal dimensions, very heavy duty.
  • Lockable tool boxes inside and out.
  • Top could be cut to make an open service body, or could be used for a very heavy duty rough road RV/Expedition vehicle, or fully removed for other use (water truck, flat bed, etc.).
  • Has electric fold in/out rear step for easy walk in access.
  • Recent refresh and relube on rear axle (gasket was leaking), and turbo service (mounting bolt was missing) by dealer.
  • Cruise control, air conditioning, additional air conditioning/heating in rear box for crew while driving.
  • 70 gallon fuel tank.
Link to ad: https://www.ebay.com/itm/153572515469?ul_noapp=true

Other items to note, as I have seen these question about this type of vehicle on this forum.

The rear box is built by FPI then fitted to the chassis. FPI is some type of prison inmate system where they build the rear boxes. Somewhat similar to Lighthouse for the Blind that does water cans and other items for the military, though not exactly a good comparison. I don't mean to compare inmates to someone without site, so this is more of a comparison of quasi government supported systems meant to rehabilitate or empower (pick your language) work programs. Please don't get bent over this, that is not my intent. The trucks, once uplifted, are then sent to the various ranger districts thru the GSA. Maintenance is done by the district, which may be in-house, contracted out, or a combination of the two. The statement that prisoners do the maintenance on this is completely incorrect.

The box is typical, though quite heavier duty, ladder frame construction. Modifications to the box are a matter of cutting and welding in the appropriate structure, then re-skinning, etc. They are seriously over built so as to support the full combined weight of the truck when upside down with total deflection of no more than 1.5% per their specification sheets that I have found. The intent is to protect the 8 person crew inside the rear box in the event of a roll over. All of the pics and articles I could find about roll overs, the causes, and subsequent results support this.

Other specifications include a 30 degree side tilt test where they are put onto a plate which is raised to that angle to confirm they will not roll over in a static unloaded condition. Obviously a dynamic situation, or loaded such that the vehicles COG will affect that, but I'd be changing my shorts if riding in one and it went to half that even at slow speed.

This vehicle has been registered as a commercial type, non-commercial vehicle in the state of AZ. I have full coverage insurance which is under $800 per year (no accidents last 10+ years may help). The registration is set to expire in July, and renewing it is just over $500. Once converted, with the minimum items per the state of registration, you can expect registration to drop dramatically as well as a drop in insurance rates unless you choose to do an "agreed upon" type policy which may bump it up a bit. Basically, you agree with the insurance company that the vehicle is worth X dollars (usually supported with an appraisal), and pay a rate commensurate with that agreed upon amount. I can put you in touch with the guy I use for insurance if we get to that point.

Since it is registered as not for hire, and the gross on the title is under 26k pounds, I do not have to stop at the scales, etc. (I have had this in Arizona, Utah, Wyoming, and Idaho) You may wish to check this in your state, especially if you live East of say the Rocky Mountains as it seems there are more restrictions on the East side of the country. At least that was my experience in the Northeast.

Mileage has been 9 to just under 10 when driving at 62mph. She will do 70, but you will likely get closer to 7-8mpg at those speeds. The front tires are speed rated for 70, the rear for 65, so it is advised not to exceed 65 for more than 50 miles per the literature from Michelin on the specific tires.

Noise: The drive home after purchase, of over 1000 miles from AZ to ID was fine when cruising, but a bit loud under acceleration. I chose to wear ear plugs on the 2nd day of that drive. I took it to the dealer to redo the rear end, and they found a gasket leak at the turbo which I had fixed at the same time. The noise under hard acceleration is now good. I also added (literally wallpapered) 80 mil sound deadener to the entire cab to quite things down further. The noise is not much more than a standard pickup from say 10 years ago with the addition of some heavy truck mechanical sounds like air brakes, air dryers, etc. No ear plugs required, radio, and normal conversation. The way it should be.

As you can see I'm a bit of a geek, and if nothing else, thorough. Having said that, I am sure I missed something, so feel free to inquire.
 

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Trestle

Active member
Did not re-register. Still available. Not sure why I have not received any alerts on this ad. I'll have to check my settings.
 

Trestle

Active member
Some pics of the inside of the box. Crew seats removed. Steel cross member and plywood is friction fit for temporary use. Retained two of the crew member swivel seat bases, along with seatbelt anchors and hardware to bolt them through the floor if you want to add them back, hack and cut, or other. Each seat had a little locking storage locker. I have the keys which also match the outside bins.

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marret

Active member
Couple questions.
Is there access from the cab to the box? Looks like there might be with window sliders. Also there appears to be some lower hatch on the front wall of the box.
How wide is the rear door?
 

Trestle

Active member
As it sits, there is the typical slider in the back of the cab (a-la pickup truck), adjacent a similar slider in the rear box (a-la pickup camper shell). The box below it is a fuse panel for the climate control for the A/C and heater for the rear box. There is also an electrical box on the other side (inside the trucks cabin) with electrical for all of the lights/sirens/radios that were part of the Fire Crew system. Since the movement between the cab and cabin would be relatively low in that area, if you cut out a pass through it could be sealed with an inflatable "pillow" and some internal covering. I know because one of the later model hot shot trucks we first bid on had that exact system in place. Basically both horizontal windows were removed and a leatherette style wrapping with snaps around the perimeter of the windows was the trim piece used. They were held in place by snaps in case you needed to service or gain access to something.

Rear door opening is 28" wide by 66.5" tall. The door is an inch wider as there is a 1/2" flange overlapping the inside edge of the door for a bulb seal on either side of it. The door is a little over 2" thick. 2" steel structure with a little metal inside and out adds up to about 2 1/4" or so thick.

My plan is (if I build it out) as follows:

  • Remove both electrical panels, sheet metal the cab and cabin such that there is a crawl/stoop through between the cab and cabin. It would be about 20" wide and 30" or so tall. Add some type of pass through isolating/insulating system for separation and temp control when camped. (note that I plan to abandon the cabin air conditioning, and rewiring my own lighting system for the cabin)
  • Remove the rear door, and move it to the passenger side right behind the cab. I would loose a lot of the exterior boxes on the passenger side in the process.
  • Close up the rear door, put windows across the back.
  • L-shaped dinette goes in the back, which can be folded down for a 2nd temporary bed.
  • Overhead full size bed lowers down on top of the dinette in the back. I hate having to assemble and disassemble the bed every day in most rigs. You don't need full standing height there because it is a siting area underneath, so the height of the raised and stowed bed would not be a nuisance.
  • Not sure if we want to raise the roof high enough for a cabover, or keep the height and make the space where a cabover would go into an exterior storage rack with lights and wind deflection. Likely the latter to keep the COG lower, vehicle height lower, and wind resistance down. Also like the aesthetics, so maybe a bit of vanity in there I guess.
  • Kitchen/work area down the driver side. Full bath just aft the side entry door down the passenger side.
  • Roof would be 1/2 solar panels, the rear half roof top deck. The roof, as built, we had 3x adults up there a few times watching the sunset. You could literally jump up and down on it with next to 0 deflection at all. Seriously overbuilt.
  • Finally a platform off the back of the truck that raises/lowers via electric winch. Would hold tires, one Moto, and have room for 2x MTB in there somewhere too.

That is if I get to it before it sells.
 

marret

Active member
Thank you for all the info. What you say makes sense regarding the build. I like the bed idea. My Sportsmobile has the water tank on one side and sink/shower connection with hot water heater on the other. My preference on plumbing would be to have it all on one side for simplicity. I would stay with a cassette toilet.

For the truck boot, I assume you are talking about something like this, but bigger: TRUKBOOT

I was thinking of using the truck as is for a couple-three years as a work truck for a house we'll be renovating and then convert into an overland rig. I need to be able to carry lumber so the back door would be used for that. Problem is with the work I want to use it for I need a 36" door...RV doors aren't that wide.

I'll ponder it, thanks again.
 

Trestle

Active member
The other hotshot truck we saw has something like the link, only the entire rear window was removed for a full window pass through. Then it was sleeved so you did not see any of the inflatable donut. There were snaps inside both sides of the missing window, and some type of fake leather tube which snapped in on both the cab end, as well as the cabin end. Made for a real clean look actually. Guessing they used two layers though. Leather look inside, something water proof on the outside. Maybe dry bag material.

If you want to talk about modifying the rear door to meet your 36" width need, that is something we may be able to work out. Would have to modify the cage which is about 15" forward of the rear door too. Otherwise you end up fitting through the rear door, then bottlenecking at that point. Still all pretty easy if you are looking for function until you can get to the build out. PM if interested, and we can get into details.

All the best.
 

marret

Active member
For right now I am going to pass, but I'll continue to think about it. Thanks again for the info.

Wish you the best with the sale. It will make someone a fine rig.
 

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