2005 AT Horizon - Rambler


I thought i would keep a record of what i am doing with the new (to me) trailer.

Some background....
My first trailer was an M101a1 military trailer with a topper, that i painted, added a tongue box and full battery system too, among other things.. once i built it out and actually used it once, it was clear that it was WAY to heavy for my 1995 Defender 90 which is pushing 160k miles. So i sold it, in a day to another Rover guy locally and he is loving it, bringing it out to events and has taken it further in mod's... All if good there.
I loved it for the room, and hated it for the weight..

Fast Forward to last week, a friend was selling his Horizon here, and i bought it and picked it up at the Uwharrie event this past weekend.
It's a 2005 AT Horizon, with An Autohome Overland Large tent, Kitchen kit, twin 11gal propane tanks, water, battery, solar and a Torsen bar suspension. It's Pre- TAAS, i think in their experimentation phase as far as suspension goes.

My Pull truck is a 1995 Defender 90, with a stock 3.9l V8 and a bunch of changes, most of my camping is at national forests, and other places and varies from Primitive to improved sites, but mostly primitive, limited facilities for the trailer, I.e. no power/Water hook ups so being self sufficient is key here.
Most of my Camping is with one or both of my daughters, and the plan is to use it as a base camp primarily. We plan to drop it then head out for the day.

It's going to go through some modifications as i use it, and i'll document here.

The List (in no Particular order)


- Change wheels to Defender pattern 5x6.5 - new wheels and tires to match my D90 255/85-16's on Wolf wheels
- Fridge slide for my ARB fridge - Tembo tusk , change the 12v trailer plug to a Merritt plug for the fridge
- Led lights for all 3 boxes to supplement the existing Led map lights installed
- Dual Group 31 AGM batteries, combiner/cut off and other wiring in the tongue box

Next Up
- USB & 12v outlets in kitchen box

Under consideration
- Foxwing awning to replace the current one
- Hotwater - on demand, water pump, and plumbing for dual gas, etc.. this is a major change item and will need more thought as so how to get it done correctly.
- foldable solar panels 2x100wto replace the current 65w rigid panel (more of a want than a need item)
- reverse LED flood lights, Baja Design

- Table - may need to do some modification to the tent and/or racks to fit this item - but want something like the ezi-awn large table
- power to tent for light and USB outlets
- kitchen area LED lights (flood or probably removable overhead lights for the awning) - i have an idea here
- run a +/- home run in the frame to a fuse box in the rear for all the lights/outlets

- Battery monitor readout in the Tongue (using the Solar Controller for Voltage currently, no reason to add another readout)
- raise racks so i can fit the Oz tent (and above table) under there, add tie down track to the lid 3 rails (?)
- under tent platform night light (light the ladder area)


I'll update as it goes.

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Congrats on the new Horizon. We've had ours going on 10 years now and still like the efficiency of the whole trailer set up. On your list of modifications I see raising the racks so you can put the OZ tent under the roof top tent. Thought I'd throw out my solution for that here http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/116133-Tie-Down-Bolts The only downside is it has to be removed to fold the tent open. We have it down to one strap that wraps around so removal is fast. The tent is wrapped in a tarp so it stays dry and we just set the full set up on the ground next to the tire. It is under the tent overhang and out of the way if we don't set it up.

These trailers don't have a particularly low center of gravity so raising things higher was not something I was looking to do. I made a shelf out of light plywood the spans across the upper part of the main box. Open the top and drop the boards in on the only thing they will land on. I don't open the top on trips. This provides a place for a few tarps, my folding plastic table, PETT toilet, shovel, rake, and a few other things high above the rest of the storage in the back, but still accessible from the rear.

Enjoy the new trailer.


that is a great idea.. putting it on the left side box since it probably wont be along all the time - only when needed. And that would save me raising the rack up which frankly is a good thing.


Cleaned the garage and installed LED bulbs in place of the T12 tubes, wow..

Some small stuff on the trailer...
wheel chocks arrived and I added a rope to keep them together and provide another visual for the when packing up.
NOCO dual battery charger and blue sea combiner/kill switch are inbound as well as the feast of the bits for the box LED project.
I'm going to follow your lead Wee Jeep and mount the Oz rv5 to the left box, I have a set of canyon dancer rings which will work perfect for it.

Calling AT tomorrow to secure the fridge slide and talk hub adapters so I can run d90 wheels and match the truck

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Canyon dancer load rings installed on left side box, which enables me to take the oz tent as needed (like this weekend, since the whole family is going)
They are attached with ss bolts and gender washers, with gasket compound for water proofing. I set them back slightly so they would not overhang the sides.

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2nd project for today,
LED strip lighting for the kitchen box and the main box..
along with a blue sea 6 position fuse box in the main box.
I ran all the cabling as AT does inside of weather stripping.
The fuse box is riveted on, and everything tucks up nicely in the box channels and is assessable for maintenance if needed.

I'll post the parts I used if anyone is interested

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Picture of the OZ tent RV-5 mounted to the drivers side box
Worked perfectly

And one with Betsy

Some projects incoming
Wheel adapters, silver wolf wheels, and BFG KM2's in 255/85-16 to match Betsy's setup

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Thought I would throw an update here...
tembo tusk fridge slide installed with AT riser kit... if you do this you need to move the slide to the higher mounting holes on the frame... 3 redo's to figure it out...
fixed the crappy tape on the box LED light strips with 3m vht tape... should last a lifetime now.. just do this to start with
Also completed the dual battery setup... pictures of that later once I buy the other deep cycle and build the shelf in the front box for the new solar setup.


Also did the wheel adapters in order to run defender wheels (5x6.5) and 255/85-16 KM2's to match the truck. This pushes the track out by a couple of inches. Still tracks perfectly behind the D90...

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Dual battery setup installed.
I used the following
2x Duracell g31 deep cycles
2x jegs battery tie down kits (metal)
Blue sea dual buss (+\-)
4 gauge wiring (all cables hand made)
Blue sea dual battery cutoff/combiner switch 300a
NoCo dual 20a on board charger (10a per battery)
NoCo shore power connector
Everything up front is individually fused. Every thing in the back runs off the blue sea 6 gang fuse box.

Everything is mounted low in the box so I can add in a shelf to cover all of this and provide solar panel storage and an extension cord, maybe more.

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Plugs for solar, 12v x2, and 4.8v USB installed. I'll finish up the wiring tomorrow.
Inputs are on the drivers side (shore plug and solar)
Outputs are on the passenger side with the awning.
I also purchased 2 large national Luna clip on LED strips for overhead light. These are wired with hella 12v plugs and are very bright on high, on low I can use one in the tent if wanted.



Looking great! Just picked up an 06 Horizon and looking to do some of the same.
Can you give a little more info/pics on the LED setup? What lights did you mount and where?


Sure -
From Amazon
Surlight 5050 led strips - waterproof daylight ~9.99/ea I used 4 strips
There are a lot of options out there, I wanted something trimable and waterproof.

For switches I used 3 of waterproof push button surface mount 12v 3a from LEDhead lighting

Everything is wired into a blue sea 6 gang fuse box w/neg. blue sea 5025

I used 3m trim adhesive from the auto parts store for the main box, the stuff it comes with seems fine for the side boxes.
The main box led strips are run in the channel facing down where the top lid seals - they are hidden and bright.
The side boxes I stuck the strip to the inside of the box directly above where the lid seals facing inwards. It reflects well and is bright enough - plus you can feed it through the stove area aluminum.

Hope that helps

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