2004 Tundra Adventure Cab - Build/Adventure Thread

toyotech

Expedition Leader
So I have had the OR Fab catalytic protection skid for a while now. Love that keeps my cats safe from thieves and the skid is only 1/8” thick as it’s a little thin. Mine has seen some abuse and it does bend but I rather it bend for clearance overtime while cutting some weight over the typical 3/16. Still plenty strong imo. Sucks this is discontinued. I will be making a copy set with some changes as I need a set for my sequoia
I been meaning to make a set of t case out of 1/8 to work with or fab cat skid but just been busy. I won a gift card at 4wp so I just ordered a skid row 3/16 t case skid which for me was $255 otd during their no sales tax minus $100 from my gift card.
As you can see they don’t work together. I was ok with it over lapping but the holes didn’t line up. I ended up drilling out the or fab bigger and used longer bolts to make it work.
Now I have a set. I can just make both out of 1/8 for my sequoia when the time comes and some spares for the tundra if I want to ditch the overlap look.







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toyotech

Expedition Leader
So I contacted Fox about the brake line issue and they were less than helpful. Basically if it starts making contact and I send them pics they might send me some different spring perchs. With that said I decided to take the chance and went ahead with the install of the Fox 2.5's with the 700# springs, not sure if I just had the crappy Toytec's jacked up way to high, but I definitely last some ride height which I was not expecting. The ride is amazing compared to what I had, but it seems like I am rubbing quite a bit more than before. I also still need to get the alignment done which could help with the rubbing, but just want to get the ride height worked out first though. Curious as to what your current ride height is and how much threads you have showing on top?
I adjust the height to how much rake I want. I don’t do the typical 2. 2.5. 3” lift. I adjust according to why my rear is at loaded. Never measured stock height so I can’t say. I don’t want it get into a rub/lift argument but lifting isn’t fixing a rub issue. Your suspension still cycles the same lifted 3” or not lift at all. So if you rub. Start cutting. I don’t rub even on bump stops on 35s. So lifting has nothing to do with it.


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Kpack

Adventurer
I adjust the height to how much rake I want. I don’t do the typical 2. 2.5. 3” lift. I adjust according to why my rear is at loaded. Never measured stock height so I can’t say. I don’t want it get into a rub/lift argument but lifting isn’t fixing a rub issue. Your suspension still cycles the same lifted 3” or not lift at all. So if you rub. Start cutting. I don’t rub even on bump stops on 35s. So lifting has nothing to do with it.


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Agreed. If you are using the truck off road then the suspension will cycle through full up and down. Rubbing is not a problem with suspension, it is a problem with alignment, tire size, wheel offset, and the size of the wheel well. Good alignment will solve much of the problem, but it is likely you will still rub somewhere. If it's on the frame, then a better alignment or more offset on the wheels can help. If it's on the firewall, alignment can help but oftentimes it's time to cut. I had to cut the pinch weld off both sides running 33's. If running 35's I'd have to tub.

Some guys will try to "solve" a rub problem by lifting the truck higher so the tires no longer hit that area. That will work if the suspension never cycles. So if the truck is a pavement queen with super stiff suspension then you might get by without rubbing. But if the truck gets used at all then properly dialing in alignment and cutting/adjusting the wheel well is how to really solve the problem.
 

beef tits

Active member
Startedthatknow the tundra isn't a typical over landing vehicle but the taco was just too much $$$ used. Similar mpg when loaded up if not better in the tundra. I do own a quad and recently a RZR. The tundra was a no brainier.
No need to make excuses, you’ll find a lot of benefits to the Tundra over a Taco. For starters, you won’t be like everyone else. Tacos are pretty “basic”, kind of like Jeeps. Everybody has one.

That 4.7 v8 is easily a 500k mile engine. Just keep up on the timing belt changes.

Your generation Tundra is also practically the same size as a new Taco... but with a v8 ;)
 

coastiehawk

New member
Thanks for the info @toyotech and @Kpack. Definitely don't want to make the same mistake I did with the toytech coilovers and jack up the Foxes just to try and solve the rub issue! I'm running 33s and all of my rubbing issues are on the frame and only at full turn. A lot of it was cleaned up after I got the initial alignment done. The rubbing has never been an issue while on the trail so I'm just going to deal with it for now. May eventually go with a narrower tire or find some wheels with a slight offset. Want to avoid wheel spacers, they seem to add more issues than they are worth.
 

JCMatthews

Tour Guide
Thanks for the info @toyotech and @Kpack. Definitely don't want to make the same mistake I did with the toytech coilovers and jack up the Foxes just to try and solve the rub issue! I'm running 33s and all of my rubbing issues are on the frame and only at full turn. A lot of it was cleaned up after I got the initial alignment done. The rubbing has never been an issue while on the trail so I'm just going to deal with it for now. May eventually go with a narrower tire or find some wheels with a slight offset. Want to avoid wheel spacers, they seem to add more issues than they are worth.
I run with stock springs with 150000 miles on them and bilstein 5100's set on 2.5. I have 285 70 17 BFG KOs. I rarely have rubbing, but I have worked hard at getting the alignment right. I have now installed the SPC uppers, and they really allowed me to move my tires forward, and now only in extremely flexy situations do I rub.
 

coastiehawk

New member
I run with stock springs with 150000 miles on them and bilstein 5100's set on 2.5. I have 285 70 17 BFG KOs. I rarely have rubbing, but I have worked hard at getting the alignment right. I have now installed the SPC uppers, and they really allowed me to move my tires forward, and now only in extremely flexy situations do I rub.
Running the SPC uppers as well, been hard to find a decent shop that can get the alignment right and know how to make adjustments using the SPC's. The last place I went to finally dialed it in using the infamous "DJ Specs" but still only made adjustments at the cams. I think I might spring for a DIY alignment kit and give it a shot myself. I've seen a few posts on some of the Tundra forums of guys having decent luck with them.
 

smokeysevin

Observer
Running the SPC uppers as well, been hard to find a decent shop that can get the alignment right and know how to make adjustments using the SPC's. The last place I went to finally dialed it in using the infamous "DJ Specs" but still only made adjustments at the cams. I think I might spring for a DIY alignment kit and give it a shot myself. I've seen a few posts on some of the Tundra forums of guys having decent luck with them.
100% recommend getting a diy alignment setup.

I used to chew up front tires like crazy even after getting it "professionally" done. Its night and day better after I started doing it.

Sean
 

JCMatthews

Tour Guide
Running the SPC uppers as well, been hard to find a decent shop that can get the alignment right and know how to make adjustments using the SPC's. The last place I went to finally dialed it in using the infamous "DJ Specs" but still only made adjustments at the cams. I think I might spring for a DIY alignment kit and give it a shot myself. I've seen a few posts on some of the Tundra forums of guys having decent luck with them.
I have a good relationship with the Big O here in town. I worked with the mechanic to get the alignment set correctly.
 
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