No I was running a different 16x8 wheel with 285’s when the truck was stock. I’d imagine you be ok with a small front bumper trim with a 9” wide wheel.Did you happen to run those before the single axle install?
Wondering how they'd fit my stock setup with 285's.
Man your truck was so nice! The Burb is awesome too. Glad to see you swapped everything over. Saw some pictures of the roll in Moab, such a bummer! That dmax swap will be fun!Welcome to the club. Loved my Duramax! Hit a small rock and got the suburban. Planning on Duramax swap first of the year.
I am currently running 37" SSR on Trailready beadlocks. Balanced with 4 oz of weight.
Good looking ride you will enjoy it.
I swapped to 8x170 bolt patter. I am running 1.5” adapters in the rear from Fred Goeske (wheel adapter.com). Made from Timken Bearing steel and rated for 80k lbs. With the 1.5” added width in the rear my track width is now equal to the wider front axle. I didn’t want custom drilled unit bearings and rotors just in case I have a remote failure. I should be able to pick one up at any auto parts store.Awesome build. What did you do wheel pattern wise? Did you have WFO machine the hubs?
My York gave up on me and I was in a crunch. I purchased an ARB dual compressor. When I originally installed my York, I mounted the air tank on the “Evap“ canister mount/bracket under the bed just in front of the rear axle. Now it was time to mount the ARB compressor and I looked all over for somewhere to mount it. I looked above the air tank and realized that there was plenty of real estate (with my flatbed) to mount it above the air tank on the same bracket for the evap canister. If you don’t have room above the bracket, you should have, below the bracket and have plenty of clearance.I'm having a hard time trying to figure out where to mount my ARB compressor. There is no option under the hood as there is no room for it. I also don't want it in the cab, because I don't want to listen to it or run lines in.
My options are:
1: Mount the compressor somewhere in the bed and build a cover for it. Then mount the locker manifold under the truck somewhere safe.
2: Mount the compressor and manifold under the truck where the spare tire used to be (plenty of real-estate).
Any one have experience mounting one under the truck? I would build some type of splash guard and relocate the air intake. Seems like mounting it in the bed might be more of a pain. The only good way to run the wiring and air lines would be to come up through one of the corner stake sides and I'm not a a big fan of that.
Any insight would be much appreciated!
Here you go. Had a pressure gauge, front and rear locker solenoid, pressure switch for the York and a safety blow off valve.
One thing I noticed when wireing my air lockers is that the ARB factory harness will not let you lock the front unless the rear is locked. Wiring it independently of each other you can turn them on and off how ever you want. Not that big of a deal, just handy to have sometimes when you get a 8,000 lb truck stuck.
Just be ready for it to get extremely dirty there, especially if you get into the desert silt beds. I hit some in eastern Nevada a few weeks ago and I washed the truck a few days ago (third time since the silt) and I was still getting silt out from under the spare tire area.I spent some time under the truck on a creeper yesterday and I think the old spare tire location should work out. For now I don't plan on running an auxiliary tank. I'll have to mock it up, but I should be able to tuck it up in the crossmember and put a nice cover/splash guard on it to keep it protected from the elements. As far as wiring everything, I'm going to wire to my knock off switch pro. I don't plan on using the arb factory harness, I'll just run each locker and the compressor to my switch panel.