2002 Dodge Ram 2500 -buying tips?

Hokie

Observer
Hey guys,

I am still in the truck hunt here (passed on the 93 diesel work truck) and have come across another possibility here. Hoping some of you can point out anything I am missing that I need to look for on this truck.

I plan to use the truck as a daily driver with a road trips of 3 to 7 hours at least once a month. It will see some off road use, but nothing extreme.

Details and thoughts:
2002 Dodge Ram 2500 quad cab - I figure there is plenty of room in the back seats for 2-3 people to sit for short drives. My main use will be a place for the dog on road trips, storage space and eventually a car seat in 1-2 years, so I think I am fine with this set up vs. a true 4 door.

5.9 liter gas motor - as far as I know, it's and old design and pretty reliable. Not sure how many miles to expect out of motor, but I would say its good for another 50K before needing anything more that routine maintenance. I assume mileage will be mid-teens like any full size V8 truck. Are there any common flaws with this motor?

Auto transmission - heavier duty than the 1500's (which were prone to failure way too early). Again, anything to look for here?

110K miles - not too bad for a truck of this age

Axles - Dana 60's front and rear for this year, is that right? I know the early 2500's used Dana 44 fronts but I think that was just for a little while in 94-95?

I know the dashes are prone to cracking but its a cosmetic thing with a couple of options for fixing/covering.

From what I know about these trucks, they are pretty solid. What else should I be concerned about or checking out on this truck?

Thanks
Ryan
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
I'm still a newbie with Dodge diesels but have been learning quickly. Picked up a '97 2500 4x4 Cummins. I know the lift pump setup is the biggest issue on '98-'02 Cummins. If the fuel pressure drops too low it will take out the injector pump = $$$. It seems to be very common to install an aftermarket lift pump system (FASS, Airdog, etc.). Transmissions are okay depending on how you are using it. Beating on it or heavy towing seems to be the biggest problem. Many good replacements out there (ATS, BD Diesel, Suncoast) 110K miles is nothing, very common to run into the 400K range. Maintenance it key though.

Here are a few good resources,

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/
http://www.ramforumz.com/

There are a ton of other ones. Good luck.
 

Hokie

Observer
Well, this one the 5.9 gas motor, not the diesel. I would love the diesel, but they are just out of my truck budget right now (unless I go for the rusty bare bones work truck that I found a few weeks ago).

As far as I can tell, there aren't any surprises with this set up, I was just checking for any common issues that my research didn't turn up.

P.S. - I am drooling over your truck Mike (I like your M1010 too, but I am partial to the Dodges). My dad had a '99 identical to it and sold it without offering it to me first. Great truck and at last count, it was just over 500K with a transmission being the only part that needed to be replaced.

Thanks
Ryan
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
Ah! I see 5.9 and automatically think diesel. LOL

My dad has the 5.9 (360) in his '97 Dakota and has been worry free since day one. They are faily bulletproof. Bummer you missed out on your dad's '99.
 

Hokie

Observer
I usually do the same. The guy's ad clearly read 5.9 gas motor and I still asked if it was diesel.

And no worries on pop's truck, he has a 2004 crew cab diesel that he knows not to move until he asks me first!
 

my1stcummins

Adventurer
My brother bought an 01 1500 5.9 last year and has had really no problems with it. I quite like the truck. We did however do a thorough tune up with new plugs, filters, belt and a Seafoam treatment of putting some in the crank case a day or so before the oil change, some in the fuel system, and most importantly pulling a vacuum line off the intake and sucked Seafoam in there to clean the intake and back of the valves of gunk. Made a huge difference. I love my Cummins, but that is a nice truck/engine combo too.

You might want to look into the steering box stabilizer kit. $120 on ebay. I know the dodges have never had the best luck with steering boxes and this helps eliminate the front end slop.

Also, the seat foam on the drivers seat bottoms are known to go bad, sit in the passenger seat and then driver's seat and you will know what I mean.

Post some pics!
 
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Hokie

Observer
I talked to the seller today. All sounds good so I am going to check it out this weekend and see if it checks out as good as it sounds.

Usual cracks in the dash, but otherwise the interior is clean. Vinyl floor mat. Nice looking cap with sliding windows and screens. It has a factory tow package but no receiver has ever been installed. The seller has supposedly never towed anything with it and the bed is carpeted so I am thinking (hoping) it hasn't lead a rough life of hauling/working.

He did say that it was a 2500 with the factory towing package and might have a Dana 70 rear instead of a Dana 60. He did say the rear sat up a good bit more than the front so he put a leveling kit on the front to even it out. The leveling kit is a steel (or aluminum?) spacer on top of the coils so the suspension is stock other than the need for longer front shocks.

Does anyone know any details about what a towing package on a 2500 would include for this year? I could see a "towing package" be anything from a wiring harness with or without the electric brake controls in the front to some suspension modifications to axle ratios and possibly posi rear?

Anything seem odd about the leveling kit? I've heard of them and I understand the purpose but never installed one or really ever researched it. The seller said the driver's front tire does wear out in about 35,000 miles on a 45,000 mile tire while the other tires wear evenly for the whole 45,000 miles. I am hoping that its only an alignment issue or lack of proper tire rotation. Worse case is that something is bent. Would a spacer or bad installation of a spacer possilbly cause this?

As usual, thanks to all for the useful info!
 
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ExpoMike

Well-known member
If the spacer was added but not realigned, it would cause the wear. Typically it's the toe that gets out of spec.

Spacer for leveling is very common. Heck in the Jeep world it's typically how you do a ~2" lift for most models.

Sorry no help on the tow package specs.

If you want to upgrade the suspension, based on my research so far, seems like Carli and Thuren are the two top ones. Kore is another big one but I have heard mixed reviews on ride quality.

Good luck.
 

sxharr05

Adventurer
Another second gen 2500~Sweet! The tow package will include the heavier-duty rear springs (3" wide v.2.5" plus the additional height), bigger trans cooler (I believe) and the brake controller. Odd that it doesn't have the reciever. Also from I was told when I had my gears done is that the Dana 60HD/70 are the same rear. Dunno for sure though.

Otherwise, general maintenance will keep this thins going strong for awhile. The transmissions DO need to be kept an eye on if towing alot/heavy loads. You're already aware of the dash problem but there was also an issue with the doors rusting at the bottoms. Supposedly the didn't treat the insides of the doors and the drain holes are partially obscured. Also, the intake plenum gaskets are more than prone to failure. If you get a chance, take a flashlight and look down into the manifold through the throttle body. If there is oil the gasket will need to be replace. If not, it more than likely has been since the truck has 110k on it. Mine has 81,000 and needs a gasket. I've also got the two inch spacer and after alignment it was pretty much like driving it stock, though an adjustable track bar will re-center the axle if it needs.

Keep us posted and get pics either way.
 

Hokie

Observer
Well, bummer. The truck was a no-go. It was an old county or state forestry/game warden truck so it was bare-bones and basic.

The Good - It had rubber floorboard and vinyl seats (easy to clean), manual doors and locks (which is fine, less to break), it had A/C but no cruise (which I would have liked). Exterior was fine, just a few scratches and dings, but nothing bad. Underside had a lot of surface rust that would have to be cleaned and repainted.

The Bad - Coolant was very dirty - more brown than green. Transmission fluid was also more brown than red and smelled funny. Oil didn't have a funny color because it had NO oil in it!!! I mean it didn't even register on the dipstick. There was a small leak at the front of the motor that had covered a front crossmember but I didn't waste time to check into it further. It was pretty obvious that upkeep and routine maintenance weren't given to this truck.

I'm bummed but better to find all of that out before you buy it rather than afterwards.

The search continues!
 

Loco-Nomad

Adventurer
Better to find it now than after you bought it, but yes, still suxs! Not sure what your budget is, but if you are able to find a sweet deal on a Cummins, take it. (Like you don't already know that...) Anyways, I love the Dodge trucks and hope you find what you are looking for.
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
The 2002 came with much coveted rear discs.

The dash needs to be "rugged up" as well as any Dodge ASAP. Molded Ultimat from Dashmate is available from Genos Garage. If it cracks,RV weld should do it if caught in time,then covered with a mat. 2002 comes with the AAM front axle which lends itself to the '08.5+ suspension upgrade when the time comes. This design keeps the toe-in stable through the cycling process.
 

bearman512

Adventurer
Sorry to here about the truck but sometimes the Cummins gods are telling you to not get the gasser and to keep looking. What is the price range you can afford and I might be able to help. I am not a dealer but did a lot of searching to find the deal I got on my 02 2500.
03-08.5 has the AAM axles. The 02 models are completely different beasts but ball joints will be an issue after you hit the 150K mark and you will need to check them regularly. Both first and second gens have an issue with a lift over
3" in the front and can develop death wobble but with a good inspection and aftermarket track bars and such you will not have a problem.
By the way my 2500 averages 16-18 mpg in town and 18-22 mpg on the highway and 18-20 towing my 2800 lb camper behind it. Food for thought!
 

Hokie

Observer
Okay experts, need some more advice here.

Now looking at a 1999 Ram - 360, auto, 4wd, 160,000 miles, quad cab, short bed

Normally, I wouldn't look at a truck with this many miles, but about 8000-9000 miles ago the owner had the bottom end of the motor rebuilt and "had a new transmission installed that is the same one they put behind the diesel". It is a rebuilt transmission not a factory or crate transmission.

From what I have read, the V8's got a 46RH-RE and the V10 and diesel got a 47RH-RE. I have absolutely no idea what the differences are b/t the 46 & 47 and if this is a good thing or a bad thing that this guy put in a 47.

What I did notice is that it shifts weird. When I took off from a dead stop and got up to speed, everything shifted fine and smooth. But when it had to downshift to go uphill it felt like it skipped a gear on the downshift. At one point I was traveling on a back road at 20-30 mph and at another point I was traveling at 55-60 on a two lane highway. At cruising speed, the motor was turning around 1500, then as I started up the hill, you could feel a shift (or torque converter lock up) and the RPM's went up to around 2200, then there was a long pause (couple of seconds) and it would downshift and the RPM's would go up to over 4000. I never could get it downshift into a nice sweet spot b/t 2500-3500 RPM on a hill or by giving it various amounts of gas on level roads.

I also noticed that the tow/haul button on the gear shift wouldn't engage. Not sure if this is related or a seperate issue.

I checked with my mechanic buddies and I was told that all Dodges shift like that, or the bands need to be adjusted, or there is some overdrive solenoid that needs replaced, etc, etc.

Sorry for the vague diagnosis but its the only way I know to explain it. Any ideas here? Should he not have put in this different transmission? Does something need adjusted? Is there something possibly wrong from the rebuild - either minor or major problem?

As usual, thanks in advance for any advice!
Ryan
 

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