2000 Suburban K1500 budget low lift with 37"s

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
I looked into the suburban above the spare tank. From what I can find it's only something like 7 gallons. It's hard to find info on it. Some people say there's an extra fuel pump in that tank, some people speculate it gravity feed only. Doesn't really seem like it's worth the effort.

Buddha.,

2500 tank seems to be quite a unicorn of a mystery, lol.

KukiZpO.jpg


This is in my 2011 2500 Sub. on the right is the fuel fill cap, fuel splits off into two tanks from the beginning.

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From the bifurcation: left fuel line goes into the auxiliary tank, right line continues, sitting on top of the auxiliary tank and continues into the main tank.

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On the left is the fuel line from the previous picture that goes in to the main tank, little line is the breather hose that connects to the fuel fill and behind the 2" fuel line are 3 fuel lines, on the right side they attach to the fuel pump inside the auxiliary tank, I can not see how they attach to the main tank.

Hope this helps to solve some of the aux tank mysteries.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Misadventures continue.

So I have spent more time daily driving my tuck and using it as a tractor to do yard work than any trails recently. Unfortunately even tooling around the yard at 5mph can have fun consequences. Last fall I bent the crap out of my Raptor bumper and almost shed a tear. The other day I was pulling some smaller trees and accidentally dropped one on the roof, no big deal except this time it managed to shatter my rear hatch glass.

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Took about an hour to clean up the mess, vacuum up the broken glass and take what ever is left of the plastic frame out. Most people would find this absolutely devastating especially with a major thunderstorm rolling in within a few hours however I managed to find an entire tailgate within 30 minutes from my house for $40, major score.

Glass was replaced in less than a minute, and I caught the beginning of the storm on the drive home. Best part of this mishap: I got 4 functioning struts, 2 for glass and 2 for tailgate. Spare tailgate with functioning door latch and window latch mechanisms.

4 years ago I replace the tailgate struts, window glass struts have never held up the glass but were not high priority list of repairs mostly because the glass opener button has never worked. I always wanted to get the button and glass struts fixed however I could not justify spending the money unnecessarily. Now I had a reason and all the parts are in and for much less than would have cost even on eBay.

This week's project will be to clean, prep sand and paint the new hatch to match the black of the rest of the truck. If it works well, I will bolt up the new hatch. If I butcher that pain job I don't have to display it on my daily driver.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
lol. instant fix!

we had a nephew back our '99 Tahoe rear glass into the carport overhang and shatter it, up at ou rKern River house. Car full of youts and inner tubes, fools loaded it up under the roofed carport and went to back out. Drove that s home ~130mi with a doubled tarp clamped down by the liftgate, reinforced with duct tape.

eta good info on the tanks, explains how the small aux gets filled up and presumably spills over to fill up the main. Makes me wonder how the fuel behaves during all those hill climbs
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
lol. instant fix!

we had a nephew back our '99 Tahoe rear glass into the carport overhang and shatter it, up at ou rKern River house. Car full of youts and inner tubes, fools loaded it up under the roofed carport and went to back out. Drove that s home ~130mi with a doubled tarp clamped down by the liftgate, reinforced with duct tape.

eta good info on the tanks, explains how the small aux gets filled up and presumably spills over to fill up the main. Makes me wonder how the fuel behaves during all those hill climbs

Rayra,

Yeah, I had duct tape and tarps in the truck when i went to pick it up in case I saw rain before swapping the glass.
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Seat swap/upgrade

A while ago I picked up a North Face Edition Avalanche and have been slowly stripping parts off it and replacing broken/worn out parts on my Sub with those from the Avi. One of the more recent issues were the seats. My Sub started it's life as a cloth seat LS model with a bench middle row. One of the previous owners replaced all seats with LT leather seats and put buckets in the middle row. I really like the middle row bucket/captains seat configuration however I found that the last 2-3 years I have always had the middle passenger seat folded down. So with a whole bunch of extra seats in the garage I decided to do a swap and see how the new configuration works out.

JdIMyj9.jpg


I started withe the front seat. Old seat on left with leather starting to tear and a much less used and better looking North Face seat on right.

s7GvDPK.jpg


Pulling the front seat was a matter of removing the plastic trim pieces and a couple 15mm nuts. Not sure what the actual size or tool that is needed for them but 15mm deep socket worked flawlessly and no damage to the nut itself.

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2003 Avi seat bolted right up with no problems. Airbag and other wiring harness connector plugged right into the 2000 Sub wiring harness under the seat. Best bonus of all: I went from problematic electric seat which only worked intermittently to a fully manual seat.

sOGokck.jpg


Middle row buckets.

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Third row removed and buckets still in place.

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Middle row buckets removed and some major cleaning was done.

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Bolt pattern for buckets and bench is identical. 15mm deep socket for front nuts, and 11mm deep socket for rear nuts.

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Just take a minute to look at these pretty North Face Edition seats, that stitching is so pretty. (I do not like North Face brand, but I do like the uniqueness of this setup)

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It's much easier and less effort to flip these seats forward than the buckets. Only one pull at the base of the bottom cushion flips the cushion forward and the setback is free hinged and folds down into the bottom cushion without the need to take the headrest out.

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Hard plastic seat back seems to be much more durable for the kids to walk over than the cloth of the buckets. This seat back is also approximately 1/2" lower than the bucket seat when folded and drivers side has a dual cup holder armrest which served dual purpose of hiding kids snacks under it and keeping the water bottle within easy reach of toddler in her car seat.

Challenges/difficulties: GM has been amazing at the universality of their parts from a broad spectrum of model years. Seatbelt buckles do not follow this rule. GM changed seat belt buckle design from 2000-02 to 2003-06. No issues with front seat, however middle row had an issue, driver and passenger buckles in Sub do not click into the seats new sockets. I was able to unbolt passenger seat buckle and bolt it upto the new seat, so that works. Middle row middle seat works as it should, however the drivers side seat belt buckle that's attached to the seat is pressed in and can not be easily interchanged. I will have to figure that one out in the next year or two once the car seat is no longer in that spot.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
TTB Twin Traction Beam front suspension experience?

Has anyone swapped out GM IFS for a TTB, Twin Traction Beam? Kinda like a halfway between a solid axle and an IFS. Stronger than and more wheel travel than IFS not as strong and less wheel travel than a SA.

I can get a 91-96 Bronco with TTB, or even a 80-85 F350 with TTB for a good price and it would just be a matter of pulling the TTB off, cutting off the my IFS mounts, some frame reinforcement, welding a couple brackets and bolting everything back up, over a few weeks, lol. This would give me beter front end durability than GM 1500 CVs, more durable front diff, and a few inches more wheel travel, at the expense of several inches less ground clearance.

Older TTB Ford guys please chime in with your experiences. I am looking to keep 4x4 so I would go with TTB instead of TIB found in 2wd trucks.
 

MTVR

Well-known member
As a Ford factory-trained technician that has worked on them, I can tell you that the TTB front end is EXCEPTIONALLY fragile. They lose alignment after hitting a pothole or bumping a curb. They have wacky (and unequal camber changes throughout their travel, and the stock steering linkage has crazy bump steer.

A lot of people confuse the strength of forged steel TIB front ends with the stamped sheetmetal TTB front ends, and they are just at completely different ends of the spectrum.
 

MTVR

Well-known member
I'm not gonna take the time to read this whole thread, but attempting to graduate from Craigslist used tires, wheel spacers, leveling kits, Rancho shocks, and other inexpensive bolt-ons, to completely re-engineering the front end of your vehicle, is probably a bad idea.

Your hoopty is 20 years old, has almost three spins on the odometer, and the carpets look like a toxic waste dump.

If you have enough money to do what you're talking about, then you have enough money to either buy a better vehicle, or to just start over completely and do this one correctly.

If you don't have enough money, then you need to be honest with yourself about it, otherwise this thing is just going to end up disassembled up on blocks in front of your double-wide, just like all the other car-farmers do...
 
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SoTxAg06

Active member
TTB Twin Traction Beam front suspension experience?

Has anyone swapped out GM IFS for a TTB, Twin Traction Beam? Kinda like a halfway between a solid axle and an IFS. Stronger than and more wheel travel than IFS not as strong and less wheel travel than a SA.

I can get a 91-96 Bronco with TTB, or even a 80-85 F350 with TTB for a good price and it would just be a matter of pulling the TTB off, cutting off the my IFS mounts, some frame reinforcement, welding a couple brackets and bolting everything back up, over a few weeks, lol. This would give me beter front end durability than GM 1500 CVs, more durable front diff, and a few inches more wheel travel, at the expense of several inches less ground clearance.

Older TTB Ford guys please chime in with your experiences. I am looking to keep 4x4 so I would go with TTB instead of TIB found in 2wd trucks.

There was a build thread on Pirate where a guy built a TTB setup on a 2 door blazer or Tahoe if I’m remembering correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MTVR

Well-known member
There was a build thread on Pirate where a guy built a TTB setup on a 2 door blazer or Tahoe if I’m remembering correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Careful, he gets triggered by "Pirate", whatever that is... ;)

 
Last edited:

Smileyshaun

Observer
Wait I thought this other guy was a gm ase tech .....

Oh well , I think if you where gonna go through the effort a ford radius arm setup and a solid axle would work and ride better in the long run .
 

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