2000 Suburban K1500 budget low lift with 37"s

[CrazyDrei]

what specific codes are you getting? misfires usually name a bank or even a specific cylinder. Cam and lifters might be needed, but it wouldn't come on all of a sudden as you've described. What's your fuel rail pressures? Maybe your new pump replacement already crapped out? our problem sounds systemic, some subsystem whose failure impacts the entire operation. MAF was a good start. Look for problem sources that are a single point of failure. You didn't have 16 cam lobes or 16 lifters all crap out at once. Cam position sensor? The tale ought to be in the codes. Or maybe you got a bad tank of gas, as rare as that is.

Rayra,

I am not thinking that all 16 lobes and lifters went bad. I know that cyl 1 and cyl 3 have been giving me issues for two years and now it's worse than before. I went down the entire list of just abut everything that could cause misfires and and have found a couple problems, fixed them and still same codes and the motor runs rough.

New spark plugs, no change.
New spark plug wires, no change.
Moved the spark plugs and wires around to different cylinders, no change.
Moved ignition coils to different cylinders, no change.
Tested spark plug wires: all good.
Tested spark plugs: all good.
Checked for vacuum leaks: found 2, replaced hoses, no change.
Tested fuel injectors: resistance within spec.
Replaced fuel injectors, no change.
Tested injector wiring harness with noid light: within spec.
Compression check: all cylinders 135-145psi
Leak down test (PITA): all within 10%
Replaced crankshaft sensor, no change.

So I am left with either a bad ECU, leaking head gasket or bad lifters/pitted cam.

I wish I recorded the video but I sounded like a 4BT Cummins. I dumped a whole can of SeaFoam into the crank case, drove 100 miles, flushed the engine, another oil change with 1 quart ATF, 4 quarts motor oil. The motor quieted down big time, check engine light turned off for an entire day, then that same codes re-appeared. This point to the bad lifters/cam unless I am missing something.

I can change the camshaft position sensor but that would require access to the valley and puling the intake manifold. ECU swap would be quick, cheap and easy and might be my next step before I go all out an replace the cam and lifters.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[rayra]

well IIRC you're going to have to broach that valley and pull your heads too, to change the lifters, so might as well be planning to do all that work at the same time

 

[CrazyDrei]

Little Red Rock adventures: Busted Jeep

Spent the day off roading in my back yard, the trail head is less than 2 miles from my driveway. Last week I helped a friend install a 3" level kit on his 2015 4Runner so he can fit 34" tires and we finally got a chance to get it out on the trail. 2005 Jeep Unlimited with 35" tires and 4" lift came along for the ride. Automatic with factory gearing.

I was in charge of photography today, 4Runner playing on the first obstacle.

Jeep with the solid axle up front just looks sexy.

A little bit of sandstone action. Electronic traction control is more than adequate for the trails that 95% of the 4Runner owners will ever have them on.

The Jeep struggled up this slight incline even in 4x4 low and in first gear. Factory 3.42? gearing bogs the underpowered Jeep down so much especially with the 35" tires.

The Sub blasted through the desert with no problems whats so ever as usual. Boys playing with the Las Vegas skyline in the background.


The slow motion part of the video is where the Jeep snaps the rear axle on the descent where he only uses the brakes to control his speed.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[CrazyDrei]

Crazy I'm about 14mos (but only ~5k mi) ahead of you on them GMT900 brake swap and they're still working great. Much the same observations as you, in urban stop and go no real difference. Hard / Panic stops, fully loaded stops, a marked improvement over stock. So much so I'm thinking about trying the similar swap / install on the rear. Have yet to look into the technical details yet. I suspect it's a straight bolt-in as the fronts. But I might just go with the year-appropriate Powerstop rear rotors and pads. That kit's only about $160 and I know it will fit / function.

late edit seems the GMT800 already have 13" rear rotors, same as GMT900 and it seems the 800 series caliper is better. So the 800 benefits from a 900 FRONT swap but the 800 rear is better as-is. So maybe some powerstop ceramic pads for the rear will be enough to better match my front upgrade.
https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/149050-gmt800-gmt900-brake-interchange/



eta and boll_rig might have some questions for you about 285 clearance on the rear shock top bolts when the tires are stuffed deep in the wheel wells.

Rayra,

Just saw your edit. GMT800 rear rotors are 330mm GMT900 rear rotors are 345mm. GMT800 rear calipers are came in single piston and dual piston, where as GMT900 rear calipers are only single piston. I am not sure which GMT800 trucks came with the single piston rear calipers, every GMT800 truck I have ever worked on had the dual piston rear calipers. That link is spot on.

So as of eight now we have the best setup available without going into a $5,000 brake job. GMT900 fronts (biggest dual piston from rotors and calipers) and GMT800 rears (biggest dual piston rear rotors and calipers). This setup is actually bigger and stronger than what came in 2500 trucks which also came with the hydroboost setup and a beefier transmission to use the engine to brake rather than the brakes.

As far as the pads go, I have been using Callahan OEM spec rotors and ceramic pads in all my vehicles and can not complain about the stopping power or durability.

 

[BlackBurb]

Hotdoginabiscuit,

2000 was the first year of the 5.3 and that's what I have. I have cleaned the MAF, was only good for a week or two, replaced the MAF and that was also good for a week or two. My motor sounds like a diesel, and has a ridiculous amount of valve noise and clunking from the heads. Compression is good in all 8 cylinders, leak down test confirmed that the valves seal properly. After all the trouble shooting and replacing worn parts everything is pointing to a pitted cam and bad lifters. Right now I am looking for an RV cam that will give me more low end torque as a replacement, once I find one I'll do a writeup on the install.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

Drei, I had a 2000 GMC Yukon that threw the same codes you referenced and idled rough. I had changed the plugs and wires at 100k. Around 120k, I started getting the misfire codes. I cleaned the MAF and replaced the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump(verified low pressure) and fuel filter which helped but the misfire codes and rough ide came back. The GM Tech at the dealer found Carbon Tracking, on the spark plugs, on cylinder 1 and 3. He replaced those plugs and the wire set, truck idled and ran great after.

Here's a link with a pic of spark plug carbon tracking and an explanation on how it occurs: http://zr1specialist.com/HAT Web/facts and failures/spark plug carbon track.htm

Because the plugs were relatively new the carbon tracking was not as pronounced on my plugs as what you may find from a google search. If you see even a hint of carbon tracking replace the plug and the wires on the affected cylinders.

If you are still getting the rattling from your valvetrain run the seafoam again and add a quart of Lucas HD Oil Stabilizer on your next oil change. Sometimes it takes a couple of Seafoam treatments to loosen up the sludge. Lucas will keep the drivetrain quite until you get it fixed or forget about the issue... I had been using Lucas in the rear diff of my 97 C1500 from 150k due to gear whine(diff was reshimmed round 120k) until the bearings jumped out of their races at 265k.

Good luck!

 

[XJLI]

The later GMT800 1500 Silverados (05+?) with rear drums also have the larger front brakes the GMT900 SUVs got. Then the 900 1500 Silverados kept those brakes throughout the model run IIRC. It's weird.

 

[rayra]

It's GM. They'll use the same stuff for generations until the warehouse is empty. And then they'll make mid-year changes if the stuff for a new design / year comes in early. Sorta.


Drei I've been looking at the rear powerstop kit jus tto try and up the braking power a bit to be more in keeping with my GMT900 POwerstop front kit. I was just thinking to put their ceramic pads on the rear. But I sort of want the drilled and slotted rotors too. IIRC the Powerstop Z23 kit should be a good match to my fronts. $170 isnt too bad
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3801588&cc=1380327&jsn=509

 

[CrazyDrei]

Drei, I had a 2000 GMC Yukon that threw the same codes you referenced and idled rough. I had changed the plugs and wires at 100k. Around 120k, I started getting the misfire codes. I cleaned the MAF and replaced the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump(verified low pressure) and fuel filter which helped but the misfire codes and rough ide came back. The GM Tech at the dealer found Carbon Tracking, on the spark plugs, on cylinder 1 and 3. He replaced those plugs and the wire set, truck idled and ran great after.

Here's a link with a pic of spark plug carbon tracking and an explanation on how it occurs: http://zr1specialist.com/HAT Web/facts and failures/spark plug carbon track.htm

Because the plugs were relatively new the carbon tracking was not as pronounced on my plugs as what you may find from a google search. If you see even a hint of carbon tracking replace the plug and the wires on the affected cylinders.

If you are still getting the rattling from your valvetrain run the seafoam again and add a quart of Lucas HD Oil Stabilizer on your next oil change. Sometimes it takes a couple of Seafoam treatments to loosen up the sludge. Lucas will keep the drivetrain quite until you get it fixed or forget about the issue... I had been using Lucas in the rear diff of my 97 C1500 from 150k due to gear whine(diff was reshimmed round 120k) until the bearings jumped out of their races at 265k.

Good luck!

BlackBurb,

I moved the spark plugs from bank 1 to bank 2 and bank 2 plugs into bank 1. I am still getting the same cyl 1 or cyl 3 codes. I randomly moved the spark plug wires around and still no change, misfire on the same cylinders. I moved the ignition coils around and still the same codes in either cyl 1 or cyl 3. No signs of carbon tracking on any spark plugs or wires.

A can of seafoam cleaned a lot of sludge out, however once I drained the old oil and added new oil the rattling and valvetrain noise became much worse. I have been using 1/2 can of seafoam in the crank case 100 miles before an oil change for years to help get the sludge out. The only thing that quieted the valvetrain was that quart of ATF.

I have diaelectric grease on most of my connectors under the hood, but I never thought of putting it on the plugs and wires, going to give that a shot this week, thank you.

I found a site that has ECUs for the GM trucks for $125 shipped, going to order one and see if it's the fuel injection module chip that's causing issues.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[CrazyDrei]

It's GM. They'll use the same stuff for generations until the warehouse is empty. And then they'll make mid-year changes if the stuff for a new design / year comes in early. Sorta.


Drei I've been looking at the rear powerstop kit jus tto try and up the braking power a bit to be more in keeping with my GMT900 POwerstop front kit. I was just thinking to put their ceramic pads on the rear. But I sort of want the drilled and slotted rotors too. IIRC the Powerstop Z23 kit should be a good match to my fronts. $170 isnt too bad
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3801588&cc=1380327&jsn=509

Rayra,

I have not used the powerstop kit. Looks good with the cross-drilled and sloted rotors as well as the ceramic pads. I installed a GMT900 fromt brakes for a friend in his Sub with the not sure which brand cross drilled and sloted fronts and rears, he swears that the truck stops much quicker than with the solid rotors. More efective cooling of the rotors could never hurt, nor will the ceramic pads. And that as you said rear cross drilled and sloted rotors and ceramic pads would compliment your front setup.

Also, have you done the hydroboost conversion? If you keep an eye out on eBay you can get the dual output power steering pump, hydroboost piston and new brake pedal for under $150. That along with the GMT900 fronts and cross drilled and sloted all round will stop you scary fast (until you get used to it).

 

[CrazyDrei]

well IIRC you're going to have to broach that valley and pull your heads too, to change the lifters, so might as well be planning to do all that work at the same time

Rayra,

I'll have access to the valley when I do the heads. Cam shaft sensor will be replaced, lifters, head gaskets. I'll have access to knock sensors too. Are they worth replacing or should I keep them since they work correctly?

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[CrazyDrei]

Little Red Rock drive up to saddle timelapse.

Went up to the trails in my back yard again with a friend that just bought a new to him 4 door Silverado and wanted to see what his new full size was capable of before he goes crazy with any mods. We got pretty far, but ultimately had to turn around right before the saddle where he was not going to make it up a series of 2-3 ft high ledges.

Near the end of the trail where there is a slight side incline followed by the 2-3 foot ledges that the stock Silverado would not go up.

Sometimes I am not thankful enough to have trials like these two miles from my door step and have to go on longer adventures.

Little Red Rock. The Sub looks small compared to the Silverado.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[CrazyDrei]

CrazyDrei, have you ever taken the rig through the mud? Maybe previous owner? My friend had an 01 Tahoe that was subjected to mud ( I mean hammering through a mud pit purposely) early on in its life. Well 12+ years later the mud and water had corroded and pitted the area where the knock sensors are in the valley under the intake manifold. I can’t recall the exact codes that were tripping but your drive ability behavior seems awfully familiar. Just a thought.

On edit: Here’s an example of what can be trapped in the valley, under the intake manifold.
https://goo.gl/images/BJYVKR

bigdogyj,

I have not done mud recently, maybe 6 months ago and a year or so ago. I do know that my valley doesn't look quite as bad as the picture in your link but pretty darn close. I ordered new cam shaft sensor and will probably order new knock sensors and wire harness to replace them since I will be in that area of the truck and it will be much easier to spend $20 on knock sensors than to spend 2-3 hours cleaning my 20 year old sensors.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[CrazyDrei]

Sub not getting better nor is it getting worse adventure: 400 miles in Death Valley.

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The last three months it has been way too hot to get out and explore the South West desert with a two and three year olds. I also took the time to troubleshoot and attempt to fix a really rough idle and misfire codes. Got the motor to idle smoother and run a little better but hte check engine light is still on, still getting a misfire and since it's not getting better or worse I decided to run what I bring and get out of the house to explore a new part of Death Valley. I even brought a couple friends along in case the Sub decides to die on me.

Bathroom brakes at Stove Pipe Wells

Little one could not resist to play in his new jungle gym.

Time to put the wagon back together and head on up the hill from below sea level all the way to 8,100 ft.

A quick 30 minute drive and one and a half vertical miles up we made it to the end of the road at Mahogany Flat Camp ground, the trail-head for Telescope peak.

After three hours on the road everyone was excited to get out, stretch their legs out and enjoy lunch.

Boys had a blast getting dirty in the fire pit and climbing every tree they saw.

Here we are the misfits: 2000 Sub, 2005 Jeep LJ, 2015 4Runner Limited

All lined up. Best part about today's adventure is that the over-weight, under-powered, under-geared Suburban is the only truck that ran every trail in 2wd.

The boys and I at the Charcoal Kilns.

These Kilns were built in 1877 and remained in operation for 3 years.

Pinion pine was cut down and slowly turned into charcoal over several days in these kilns.

Charcoal was then moved approximately 20 miles west of here to a mine site where the charcoal was used for in the silver and lead smelters.

George Hearst owned the mines, he was the father of William Randolph Hearst, as in Hearst Castle William Randolph Hearst.

Boys had to pose with the Wildrose peak trail which we did not do today, but is one of my favorite trails in Death Valley.

We continued down the Emigrant Pass Rd back towards Stove-pipe Wells and turned off onto Telephone Canyon trail which is only marked with a "Service Road" sign. This is the trail to Nemo-Christmas mines.

Parking at the top of the mine that we found at the end of the canyon. This is the top of Christmas mine.

Mine opening, the shaft goes about in about 100 feet before its blocked.

Mining cart rails that go off into the distance.

Continued in part 2.

 

[CrazyDrei]

400 miles in Death Valley: part 2.

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Continuing from the previous post: on the way down from the mine at the end of Telephone Canyon we ran into a park ranger who chatted with us for a while, bottom line was that he has not seen anyone on that trail for years and wanted to know when mischief we were into. This entire part is of the desert gold I found in the form of abandoned classic cars we found at this mine site. If anyone can identify any of the vehicles I will edit the post and give them full credit for each vehicle they identify: thank you in advance and enjoy!

Pretty view of the parking area at the main adit of Argenta mine.

Found "Silent" George Griest's car, he was the deputy sheriff of Death Valley in the early 1930s and was also known as "Sheriff of the Panamints", that's a sheriff's star on the side.

Rayra identified this pre-WWII Ford coupe. How ironic that we ran into a park ranger and then found this old police car.

Next vehicle on the list is this old Plymouth.

Once again who ever identifies the year and model gets credit for it.

Side view of the pretty Plymouth coupe.

Rear end view of the Plymouth.

Thank you Todd n Natalie for identifying this 1953 Mercury Monterey

Front end of the 1953 Mercury Monterey

The boys spent over two hours playing with all the old busted cars at this mine site.

Here is another pretty coupe.

If you know the year, make, model of this coupe, comment below or PM me and I will give you credit.

Back of the coupe #4

Speedometer and gauge cluster of the mystery coupe.

This was in the wheel well however i think it's a part of the air circulation system and not a wheel.

Old Ford hand crack 4-banger.

Thank you Todd n Natalie for identifying this 1955 Buick

Rear bumper.

If anyone wants to identify this one I will give them credit.

Inside of the upside down coupe.

Wow, so this was one heck of a score of an antique coupe junk yard in the middle of Death Valley on a trail that is not listed anywhere in the park literature. Going to dig through the original Death Valley Resource Study and find out more about this mine and area. I did not get any pictures of the mine shafts, but my friends explored the mine for nearly two hours and said that there were over 20 adits (entrances) that we could see from the outside and at least a dozen vertical shafts to the outside. Main adit ran for over 1,000ft before splitting in numerous directions.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[CrazyDrei]

Video: 20 Mule Team Canyon in Death Valley

I have been running this fun little drive for two decades, everytime I have the camera on the hood recording I run into another vehicle or ten, this time I snuck up to an overland VW Beetle turbo, which is an overkill for this trail. Anyway, here is a quick timelapse of the first trail of the day.


Working on a couple more videos.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!