1998 Canter 4x4 Single Cab

Witchdoctor Oz

Adventurer
Looking at a ex fire truck with very low K's & weighing up an older truck that will require money to be thrown at it over a brand new hi tech one.
I cannot find much helpful information regarding specs on the net.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Dave
 

Aussie Iron

Explorer
I'd opt for the older one as then you don't have any computer problems so a lot less hassles. Probably won't be throwing a lot of money at the older one anyway a they are well looked after and in the long run will end up cheaper than the new one.

Less tech souts me,
Dan.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
The only thing I would add is not to go back too far, as the Canters that do not have a turbo are very slow on the hills.
Yes, you can always post fit a turbo to a non turboed engine, but it is probably easier to just get a truck with an OEM turbo already fitted.
 

Witchdoctor Oz

Adventurer
Thanks guys, I know nothing about the FG models & even less about the older ones. Would this model have a turbo or not?
Is the non flat chassis rails a problem when building a camper box?
The idea of throwing coin at an older one is more in line with making them perform better & be more comfortable suspension wise + you are starting at a lower in price.
This Canter has under 20000K's on the clock, but looking through the FG for sale page this one looks a little on the high price due to the age.

Cheers
Dave
 
I have an fg637,ex army,so came with body. Some observations...
1. Needed turbo, allow about 5k if u outsource the job. They respond well to turbo and many have been done successfully.
2. As Dan mentioned, electronic issues are minimal or nil. My mechanic, who does Fg canters for a Fraser Island tour company, rates the older models for reliability and identified the fg637 as one he'd take to more remote areas.
3. We have friends with later model trucks, while they are not reporting major issues, there is little, if any difference between trucks as far as comfort and driveability goes, they all need suspension, wheel and tyre modifications to make them acceptable and to perform better. Naturally,newer models have better engine performance at the cost of complexity.
4. With wheels and tyres, the older models atm don't have certification from say Kym Boltons TruckSuper Singles, so depending on where you are, theres a chance you will need to get private certification through an engineer to make things legal. Newer vehicles have had the tick,so essentially just paperwork to get those approved. ATWs cover older models but I don't recommend the 19.5s over the 17s from Kym due to cost,availability of tyres and comfort and performance differences, so go with 17s if you can.
5. Ours had 24k 4 years ago and now has 65k without a blip. It had been serviced within an inch of its life. I assume Fire vehickes are the same. The only problem ,if it is one, could be if used as a stationary engine meaning the odo isn't mkving but the engine is doing work and perhaps brakes which aren't getting much of a workout corroding the cylinders or something which is a relatively mi or issue to rectify.
 

Aussie Iron

Explorer
I have an fg637,ex army,so came with body. Some observations...
1. Needed turbo, allow about 5k if u outsource the job. They respond well to turbo and many have been done successfully.
2. As Dan mentioned, electronic issues are minimal or nil. My mechanic, who does Fg canters for a Fraser Island tour company, rates the older models for reliability and identified the fg637 as one he'd take to more remote areas.
3. We have friends with later model trucks, while they are not reporting major issues, there is little, if any difference between trucks as far as comfort and driveability goes, they all need suspension, wheel and tyre modifications to make them acceptable and to perform better. Naturally,newer models have better engine performance at the cost of complexity.
4. With wheels and tyres, the older models atm don't have certification from say Kym Boltons TruckSuper Singles, so depending on where you are, theres a chance you will need to get private certification through an engineer to make things legal. Newer vehicles have had the tick,so essentially just paperwork to get those approved. ATWs cover older models but I don't recommend the 19.5s over the 17s from Kym due to cost,availability of tyres and comfort and performance differences, so go with 17s if you can.
5. Ours had 24k 4 years ago and now has 65k without a blip. It had been serviced within an inch of its life. I assume Fire vehickes are the same. The only problem ,if it is one, could be if used as a stationary engine meaning the odo isn't mkving but the engine is doing work and perhaps brakes which aren't getting much of a workout corroding the cylinders or something which is a relatively mi or issue to rectify.

That about covers it but I would personally go with the 16" alloys from Alan as they are a lot lighter and 16" tyres as there are a lot more available in different tyre patterns.

Dan
 
That about covers it but I would personally go with the 16" alloys from Alan as they are a lot lighter and 16" tyres as there are a lot more available in different tyre patterns.

Dan
Is there much difference in tyre performance between the 16" and 17"? More 'floaty' on road for the 16's do you think? Is either better off road in theory?

Also, with the 16s, I assume the clearance is sufficient for brake drums etc?
 
Something to consider with any rim is the provision of two valve stems as reversing the wheel can position a single stem set up in an awkward position for inflating and deflating tyres which happens a lot in dirt and off-road situations. Correct me if wrong but the 16" alloys from Allan only have one stem position, I say this as a friend's truck is running them and the combination of one valve stem and screw on tyre pressure monitoring units slowed the process of adjusting tyre pressures considerably.

Your GVM and axle weight limits would affect the choice of rims and tyres.
 

BLC392

Member
Hi Dave,

Your conundrum sounds familiar. I asked myself the same questions.

I chose an older truck based on the plan to replace the interior and upgrade the suspension. Didn't see the value in a newer truck when I would be removing what would effectively be usable(?) suspension and interior. The purchase price of the truck was too good to pass up. Add to this the cost of the mods and in the end the cost of the truck ( not including camper component) will be cheaper than purchasing a newer truck before modifying. With Isuzu, spare parts are readily available, and in most cases the cost is cheaper than rebuilding or servicing.

The initial cost savings of purchasing an older truck could be put towards the desired modifications i.e. SRW, suspension etc.

If you have the ability to carry out 95% of the mechanical work as needed, I would recommend the older truck.

I've taken an analogue track on the digital map.

Cheers,

Brendan
 

Aussie Iron

Explorer
Something to consider with any rim is the provision of two valve stems as reversing the wheel can position a single stem set up in an awkward position for inflating and deflating tyres which happens a lot in dirt and off-road situations. Correct me if wrong but the 16" alloys from Allan only have one stem position, I say this as a friend's truck is running them and the combination of one valve stem and screw on tyre pressure monitoring units slowed the process of adjusting tyre pressures considerably.
Your GVM and axle weight limits would affect the choice of rims and tyres.

True Alan's rim only have a single valve stem but I don't have any problems with it that way as I can reach round to them no matter what position they are in and I do have tyre monitoring on them as well.

Some people have said there can be issues with stick on weights, but there are other balancing options if this does prove to be a problem.

Tyre balancing beads solve this.

Is there much difference in tyre performance between the 16" and 17"? More 'floaty' on road for the 16's do you think? Is either better off road in theory?

Also, with the 16s, I assume the clearance is sufficient for brake drums etc?

Probably not a lot of difference between 16' and 17" with performance and ride. Side wall profile is not a lot different. Yes 16" rims clear the brake drums with no problem.

Dan.
 

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