1997 Land Cruiser Troop Carrier Build

MattScott

Approved Vendor
_MG_6671.jpg

As some of you might know, about six months ago I traded in the sunny shores of California's Central Coast for the red dirt and beaches of Australia. This meant that I now had access to some of the world's best overland vehicles. So, I indulged myself in the local fare and purchased a well-loved Troop Carrier. It's a 1997 with a 1HZ naturally-aspirated diesel engine, relatively low kilometres (260K) and an excellent service history thanks to it's previous life as a bush ambulance where it saw little action in a sleepy town.

Being an ex-ambulance meant it had a few things going for it, it was registered as a 3-seater, came with supportive Paradrive seats, and was fitted with dual batteries, a winch, and a bull bar. As with most 70-Series in Australia, it came factory fitted with a two-piece raised air intake (not a snorkel, more on that later). The problem is that since the vehicle saw little use as originally intended, the winch is completely rusted into one useless block of metal, and the bull bar is about as ugly as they come. None-the-less, it was in my price range (I purchased it for $11,000 — an absolute steal) and it was in good shape with zero rust and no mechanical issues.

If you've followed my exploits on the forum, you'll know that I've owned quite a few four-wheel drives. This is my third Land Cruiser. So far, it's pretty great and surprisingly easy to drive for how big it is, and how little power it has.

The Plans:

The first step for me is to mechanically baseline the vehicle. Luckily it's in pretty good shape, and being a Toyota, most everything works. So this only includes doing a few small things like replacing a window crank, having the diesel injection system tuned-up by a well-reguarded local outfit, and changing all of the fluids. I also need to find a clock and a slightly-less-terrible sound system, as the unit the previous owner put in was a bit of an afterthought.


The second step will be to get rid of the terrible ambulance bull bar on the front and replace it with something a bit more ... visually pleasing. It also sits quite low which isn't great for my approach angle. I've already found it acting as a shovel on more technical tracks. Along with this I'll outfit it with a newer winch and rebuild the old Superwinch that's on there for another day. A roof rack is also in order, and right now I'm looking at doing a Front Runner Slimline II. It's lightweight and has a bunch of interesting accessories that can be taken on and off when needed. During this 'stage' it'll also receive a 50mm suspension lift with a set of adjustable shocks — which admittedly will be a bit extravagenet for the low-tech leaf suspension.

The third step is building an interior system that allows for storage and sleeping. My design is inspired by what Scott Brady did with the Expeditions 7 vehicles, but the sleeping system will not be built at fridge height, rather it will be lower and allow for more mobility once inside. The fridge will be mounted on top of the drawers towards the rear. The current plans call for two one-metre long drawers on in the back, with the front half being a large hatch that can be removed to allow for seating and a small table.

If you were curious what I'm doing in Australia, thanks to all of the four-wheel drive knowledge passed on by members of this forum since I joined in 2008; and the mentoring I received from folks like Scott Brady while working for Overland International, I was hired to run Unsealed 4X4. It's currently Australia's most-read 4X4 magazine, and if you're ever looking to get a bit of Aussie inspiration, give it a look. It's online and completely free.
 

MattScott

Approved Vendor
_MG_6534.jpg

The 1HZ naturally-aspirated diesel engine.

_MG_6537.jpg

The dual battery setup, currently wired with a solenoid. It will move to something a little bit more advanced that gives me better control.
 

Recommended books for Overlanding

Americas Overland - The Driving Handbook
by Donald Greene
From $20
National Geographic Road Atlas 2021: Adventure Edition [U...
by tional Geographic Maps
From $22.46
Into Africa
by Sam Manicom
From $26.43
Lone Rider: The First British Woman to Motorcycle Around ...
by Elspeth Beard
From $19.95

MattScott

Approved Vendor


My first 'mod' was replacing the hood support keeper thing. Small things.



The second thing I did was to remove the window tint from the front windows. These cars just don't look good with tint up front.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

eco 45

Supporting Sponsor
Great rig! We are now blessed with being able to own the 1HZ Troopys in the USA. I have one on the boat.....just waiting for the unions at the ports to get their act together. Keep the updates coming, always a great way to learn through others builds.
 

NM-Frontier

Explorer
Looking forward to this, I enjoyed your other builds and it will be fun to see your take on the troopy! Always love some 70 action.:sombrero:
 

Recommended books for Overlanding

We Will Be Free: Overlanding In Africa and Around South A...
by Mr Graeme Robert Bell
From $17.87
National Geographic Road Atlas 2021: Adventure Edition [U...
by tional Geographic Maps
From $22.46
The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United Stat...
by TeriAnn Wakeman
From $64.95

bjm206

Adventurer
These cars just don't look good with tint up front.
I agree it doesn't look good but it will help keep half of you from roasting when you are on some of those strait to the horizon roads. As you probably already know the sun can be unrelenting down there. I had a troopy pop top camper conversion and can remember using the front side window curtains at times to get some shade.

After driving a 1HZ troopy (130HP or so) you will chuckle to yourself any time someone talks about a modern vehicle being under powered.
 

MattScott

Approved Vendor


A small update today, but I added K-Seal to the cooling system. I have used it in every vehicle I've owned, and was originally turned onto it by Expedition Exchange. It is a coolant system repairer, but in my case a good insurance policy incase of a small failure as it will run through the cooling system with no negative impacts until a small failure occurs, in which case it will help to seal it up and repair the issue.



I also cleaned the terminals and applied a terminal protectant to prevent any issues. It's something I picked up along the way and it prevents corrosion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top