1996 Canter 4x4 FG639 front prop shaft

dietert

New member
Hi guys
First post and after advice if I can repair a "sloppy" prop shaft uni joint in the above mentioned truck. Motor Registry here in Canberra, ACT have knocked back rego because of a sloppy drive shaft. The sloppyness is in the uni joint hearest the transfer case on the prop shaft that goes from the transfer case to the front axle. I've attached a couple of photos to maybe make this clearer. And one of the truck. Enquiries with spare parts people (Hartwigs) have said that the entire shaft needs to be replaced - mitsubishi part number MC075407 - verrry expensive!!!!. Is there any advice that maybe I can replace the spider in the uni joint or otherwise. The fact that it is part of the double cardin joint might be a factor?? Or is there someone out there that has a second hand prop shaft available? Thanks in advance
Dieter
Canberra ACT
 

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selfy

Observer
your local bearing shop "should" be able to help you out with uni's
the double cardin joint makes it a bit tricky but certainly not impossible
just measure the diameter and width across the cups
 

LukeH

Adventurer
Can't see any circlips holding the spiders in. If they're swaged in you're in a bit of a mess, although I find that highly unlikely. It must be possible to replace them without replacing the whole propshaft.
Good luck!
 

PhulesAU

Explorer
Not seeing the clips either, and have no experience with u joints with grease fittings in the end caps. But I just had a Double cardin replaced on a 1 ton (US) drive shaft, because of the centering ball failure. It was $315 USD. While I thought it was pricey, it was still cheaper than a whole new shaft. There has to be a Mom & Pop shop hiding around who can do the repair. I would "think" :eek::eek: any heavy truck shop would be able to do the repair or point to a "guy".
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
The uni joints in the double cardan may be repairable/replaceable, but there are no details in my manual that say that they are.
Lots of info on replacing the other uni joints, but nothing on the double cardan.

If you do need to replace the prop shaft, contact Spicer, as they can build you one for considerably less than buying an OEM replacement.

And by the way Dieter... welcome to the forum. :)
I am in Canberra too!
 
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dietert

New member
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll be unable to progress this until next week when I'll pull out the existing shaft, clean it up and have a good look. Hopefully there are circlips that can be removed so the spider can also be removed. I will also try a couple of places here in Canberra who might be able to help.

Dieter
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
many Japanese imports have the caps "peened" or "staked" into place.

By design they are not serviceable, but carefully grinding the metal away that is holding the cap in is all that is needed to remove the caps to replace the joint.

124709d1411779539-universal-joint-85-300-sd-drive-shaft-u-joint-stakes.jpg


Also, be sure to look VERY closely at the inside of the joint.

The camps may be held in my internal clips

uj-1.jpg
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
That is very good to know, but I am a bit surprised that it is not covered in the manual. Well... not that I could find.

Hi Owen,

I know you'll find this interesting................shafts on the beach buses last about 4 months before the splines chew out. Yep....4 months. Cardon joints never wear out though in the 300,000k (approx.) service life of these chassis so to wear one out would indicate a very hard life with much of it in 4wd or more likely very little greasing/maintenance . The only trouble the Cardons give on the beach is occasionally they'll blow out......they crack out through the grease nipple access hole and then you throw them in the bin. You don't get much change out of $900 for a new Cardon that's strong enough as a replacement and our local shaft service shop charge around $500 bucks to rebuild a shaft using the original flanges and new splines (plus the Cardon if it's required).
.
In the pics are the 4 spares they always keep at the ready on the bench at work. The shiny one is a brand new replacement. They are slightly longer than stock to cater for the long travel springs. One of the others in the pic has a Cardon that is maybe 18 years old....shows you what regular greasing can achieve. Last time we asked, a new OEM shaft was around $1500 at mate's rates. Rebuilding a Cardon looks a little tricky to me with the centre ball and I would have thought that was a job for a shaft service .... but then there are some talented guys here on the forum.

IMG_5938 (2).jpg
 
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gait

Explorer
the splines on my front prop shaft were worn. Vibration above 20km/hr became obvious with new, raised, parabolics.

My home is Brisbane. Hardy Spicer workshop just a few km away. Rebuilt and lengthened the shaft a bit plus added a rubber boot over the splines. Sounded like they could rebuild just about any shaft - quite relaxed when I mentioned all the joints. I also replaced front oil seal on transfer box as it was weeping. Needed the flange plate also replacing as seal had worn groove in shiny surface. Easy diy. I knew previous owner used 4wd lots.

The workshop asked if I wanted a boot added. I decided yes to keep dust and sand out but was also a bit concerned that if water got in it would be squeezed everywhere and possibly pop the boot.

Hard to find flange bolts and nuts. I used nylok nuts on old bolts.

I was brought up in UK in the era of Minis. The CV joints were known as Hardy-Spicer joints. The power of "brand" meant it was a no-brainer for the Canter once I found the workshop was near.
 
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kanga1

Observer
Hi Dieter, we had a look at your Canter when it was for sale by a guy in Penguin, Tas. Really nice fitout and 3 point mounting system Adrian had built. Basically a pretty sound unit, good luck with your mechanical repairs and improvements. We are coming over to the mainland in a few days to pick up an ATW from Toowoomba, and are back on the Mainland for the Big Red Bash in July this year, may see you around. Cheers, Kanga.
 

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