1994 full size Blazer lift and tires

bbigjohn

New member
Hi guys,

been on here for a few months since i bought my 1994 stock full size Blazer in October. now that i know i need bigger tires and a lift to do the wheeling that i want to do with my jeep buddies. need some advice on what is the best setup for the Blazer. i want to go to 35x12.50x16 and a 3" lift. will this work? any advice would be great. and the best lift and why? i will try and attach some photos of the rig.
 

Attachments

  • 13825.jpeg
    13825.jpeg
    993.5 KB · Views: 67
  • 13827.jpeg
    13827.jpeg
    185.2 KB · Views: 65
  • 13828.jpeg
    13828.jpeg
    146.9 KB · Views: 56

ttengineer

Adventurer
What ever you do, don’t get a lift that requires you to crank up your torsion bars.

I think a lot of guys like Cognito lifts for older GM IFS trucks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

4bytruckin

New member
I have a 2000 Tahoe, OBS. I have the torsion bars cranked. Just flipped the ball joints for better camber and so the upper control arm doesn't whack the restrictor on the frame. I can fit 35's easy. I run a 4 inch block in the rear and have new 1750lb springs. Overall I wish I already went a solid front axle with the ORD kit. I'm on my second set of ball joints in 2 years. second set of tierod ends in 2 years as well. Nothing in the front end likes the angles a torsion bar lift creates. save your money and do it the right way.
 

bbigjohn

New member
thanks guys. this is very helpful. this is not my daily driver so wearing out parts should not be an issue. this will be a lets get me bigger tires and enough lift to get the tires in there. then i will start saving for a 4-6" lift. and maytbe some 38" tires by then. so could i do the 3" lift keys and the shackles from ORD to get enough lift for the 35's?
 

ttengineer

Adventurer
Lift keys will ride like ********.

Most 6” kits are 4” kits with the torsion bars turned way up.

I have a ‘99 Tahoe that I’ve had, sold, and bought back since it was new and I plan on doing a SAS once I rebuild it.

If you want 38s you’ll either need to cut the fenders or go way high with the lift. I cut my fenders with a 4” lift, 2” torsion lift, and 3” body lift. I was young and dumb and didn’t know what a good lift looked like. This time around I’m taking the time to do it correctly.

Either way, don’t use a torsion bar lift. They are junk and not the proper way to lift a GM IFS.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

arveetek

Adventurer
I vote for keeping it stock or doing SAS. I cranked my bars about 1" to clear my 33" tires. I wouldn't spend a dime on an IFS lift. Spend the money on a SAS, and you'll get a lot more bang for the buck. You'll spend thousands on a proper IFS lift, but in the end, all you've gained is clearance for larger tires. There will be no more articulation than stock. All an IFS lift does is space it down further from the frame. At least with the SAS, you'll gain strength, simplicity, and more articulation.

Having said that, I'm perfectly happy with my IFS rig and 33" tires. It's done everything I've asked it to, including following Jeep TJ's and JK's on mild trails.

Casey
 

usanumber1

Member
Drop bracket kits and torsions are not suited for actual Offroad use. Either get a long travel kit, or solid axle swap. I considered the normal whatever kit, and while the cheap cost was tempting, I have zero regrets about fixing the IFS.
 

bbigjohn

New member
Thanks guys, the more i look into this. the more i am on the page of doing an SAS. Like arveetek stated he can keep up with JK and Tj's with 33's. so that is sounding like what i am going to do in the short term. then just save my pennys for the SAS.

as far as the kind of wheeling i do, i live in southern californina in the high desert. we go to red rock canyon, we did last chance canyon a few weeks ago and the blazer did great just got hung up on the rear diff a couple times, but we got through it. so i am looking to get a littile more clearence to avoid getting hung up on the rear diff. i was with a TJ and a JK and they just blast through anything. \

if any of you have any other suggestions i am open to hear them. i am just learning about all this and its been great so far and i am haveing a blast.

bbigjohn
 

buffy

Member
I'll be a different voice. I had a '96 Tahoe that I ran a 6" IFS lift on. I then went SAS on it. In hindsight, I wouldn't have done it. If you're planning on rock crawling this thing and bashing rocks, don't. Sell this thing and buy something already setup with big one ton solid axles. If you're running trails with some periodic rocks, do an IFS lift. Swap the rear axle with a 14BSF or late model 9.75 axle. Get a detroit and chromo axles. Get some custom rear springs with a lot of flex and let the rear end do much of the articulation. Beef up the tie rods and keep a spare half shaft to swap. Learn how to swap it quick. Then enjoy.
 

Wahayes83

Member
I had a 93 Yukon 2 door with a 3inch body lift and 35s. Fender trimming was needed but that was because I had 15x10 rims. 15x 8 I don't think would be an issue. I regeared to 4.56 as well. If you off-road on the rocks much carry junkyard halfshaft spares and get good at swapping on the trail. Balljoints will be destroyed with much rock offroading and tie rods won't fare much better even if not daily driving. Mine was mainly setup for the beach dunes in South Padre but I did take on rocky trails in the Texas Hill country at the time. If I were in the rocks often or planned 38s sas would be the only way to go if keeping the rig. That being said for less money and better performance a different rig would be more capable in that environment. (Yes it was a Yukon despite the Chevy facelift) IMG_20140329_194748936.jpgIMG_20140329_194742459.jpg
 
Last edited:

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
Nice truck Mr Wahayes. I am driving a 94 Yukon on 37s...

umDbsxT.jpg


and a have a Dana 60 up front on leaf springs....?
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
I have a 2000 Tahoe, OBS. I have the torsion bars cranked. Just flipped the ball joints for better camber and so the upper control arm doesn't whack the restrictor on the frame. I can fit 35's easy. I run a 4 inch block in the rear and have new 1750lb springs. Overall I wish I already went a solid front axle with the ORD kit. I'm on my second set of ball joints in 2 years. second set of tierod ends in 2 years as well. Nothing in the front end likes the angles a torsion bar lift creates. save your money and do it the right way.
You didn't have the springs made to eliminate rear block? My 98.4 24v had terrible axle wrap with the long blocks.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,800
Messages
2,878,303
Members
225,352
Latest member
ritabooke
Top