So did a bunch today. Mostly worked on door seals, vent seals, carpet install and I took the winch off my Range Rover and put it on this Defender. And probably a bunch of other things I’ve forgotten I did already.
We will start with carpet. Hopefully this will cut down on the tin box feeling.
Next up the winch. The battery is inside the truck in the center console. But that’s a lot better then where they usually are under the seat. I may be adding one under the hood so it’s easy to hook the winch to it.
As you know, they are a pretty tried and true solution for the Salisbury axle. If you have the budget, why not? Also it’s a universally recognized upgrade if you ever resell the truck. And you get onboard air.
In no way am I saying it’s “better” than a Detroit, etc. just talking perception.
I had a 300tdi when I lived in Tanzania. Complete rebuild after rollover.
Came with second 45ltr diesel tank in right rear fender well and 45ltr water tank in left fender well, both standard South Africa upgrades, both awesome upgrades
My 2 cents..
Don’t Americanize the defender too much, it will always be loud, always leak oil and always leak at door seals, English call that “character” . keep it light as possible, it will perform better.
Change timing belt if you aren’t positive it was done recently, early 300’s had pulley misalignment but was likely already upgraded by po
Be careful on parts, some real 💩 out there.
I built sill protection from heavy rectangular tubing with lighter gauge piping for steps, rectangular tubing doubled as my air tanks and steps provided needed sill and door protection. Built strong enough for highlift jack points.
Landers are awesome off-road but crap on reliability, need constant maintenance, luckily most can be repaired in the field with basic tools.
Land Rover motto..if you have to ask why I drive one you wouldn’t understand if I told you.
Ps, carry 8’ 14 g wire, if you ever run into electrical trouble, disconnect electrical, run 12v fuel shutoff directly off battery it’ll get you home.
Well, you can also remove the solenoid, remove the plunger inside, screw it back in and pop start it with no battery within 100 miles...
It’s all about knowing your rig.
But the timing belt advice is sound- not only does it fail at mileage, also at age. So even if it’s only 1000 miles, if it’s four years, or so it should be changed Also the tensioner if you don’t know it was changed. Tensioners kast a few belts but you need to know where you start.