1992 Defender 110 200 TDi

Ray Hyland

Expedition Leader
Can you please show some shots of how you mounted the 2nd row seat? Any challenges fitting it?

Thanks!
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
So did a bunch today. Mostly worked on door seals, vent seals, carpet install and I took the winch off my Range Rover and put it on this Defender. And probably a bunch of other things I’ve forgotten I did already.

We will start with carpet. Hopefully this will cut down on the tin box feeling.





 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
Next up the winch. The battery is inside the truck in the center console. But that’s a lot better then where they usually are under the seat. I may be adding one under the hood so it’s easy to hook the winch to it.



 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
I also replaced the rear glass in the rear door. And installed the door card for the rear door.

And some windshield trim.













 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
I’m pretty much out of parts already. Except for the other door cards. But I forgot to order the plastic door card retainers. So I ordered those.

I also ordered some door lock parts and door handle parts.

And then some fender chewier plate.

And to finish everything off. A silicone intercooler hose kit and radiator hose kit.

Should all be here by Tuesday.

And then all I have left to do is install the rear seats, and some sort of rear locker.
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
Whats a good rear locker for the salisbury axle? I'm thinking about running a Detroit.

I've had an ARB, Lincoln lockers ( Which doesn't work good in an full time 4x4 (LOL))
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
Hoping to have it all mostly ready to go next weekend.

The rest will just be details:

Stereo system, CB Radio, Lights, maybe a Ham Radio, Rear storage drawer, a subwoofer, larger alternator, etc, and a third row seat for the little ones, and a roll cage, (External of course)
 

J!m

Active member
For what it’s worth:

For my dash vents, I used a combination of the series III seals and the Defender seals. That seemed to actually work.

Doors still leak of course.
 

Ray Hyland

Expedition Leader
I run ARB lockers front and back in my 110.

As you know, they are a pretty tried and true solution for the Salisbury axle. If you have the budget, why not? Also it’s a universally recognized upgrade if you ever resell the truck. And you get onboard air.

In no way am I saying it’s “better” than a Detroit, etc. just talking perception.


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getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
Spent last night fixing the door windows and putting in all the window channels properly.

Nothing really exciting to show in those pictures.

I welded on some new tabs to mount my 9” led lights. The original mounts on the bumper were only spread far enough apart to mount 5” lights. And we all know bigger is brighter. Like a collapsed sun.




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Awesome!!
I had a 300tdi when I lived in Tanzania. Complete rebuild after rollover.
Came with second 45ltr diesel tank in right rear fender well and 45ltr water tank in left fender well, both standard South Africa upgrades, both awesome upgrades
My 2 cents..
Don’t Americanize the defender too much, it will always be loud, always leak oil and always leak at door seals, English call that “character” . keep it light as possible, it will perform better.
Change timing belt if you aren’t positive it was done recently, early 300’s had pulley misalignment but was likely already upgraded by po
Be careful on parts, some real 💩 out there.
I built sill protection from heavy rectangular tubing with lighter gauge piping for steps, rectangular tubing doubled as my air tanks and steps provided needed sill and door protection. Built strong enough for highlift jack points.
Landers are awesome off-road but crap on reliability, need constant maintenance, luckily most can be repaired in the field with basic tools.
Land Rover motto..if you have to ask why I drive one you wouldn’t understand if I told you.
Good luck...
Ps, carry 8’ 14 g wire, if you ever run into electrical trouble, disconnect electrical, run 12v fuel shutoff directly off battery it’ll get you home.
 

J!m

Active member
Well, you can also remove the solenoid, remove the plunger inside, screw it back in and pop start it with no battery within 100 miles...

It’s all about knowing your rig.

But the timing belt advice is sound- not only does it fail at mileage, also at age. So even if it’s only 1000 miles, if it’s four years, or so it should be changed Also the tensioner if you don’t know it was changed. Tensioners kast a few belts but you need to know where you start.
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
Ok. Rear glass install. A bit stressful but it went well.

Removed the van sides.



Rear glass installed.





Unfortunately we thought this was a complete kit. But the damn Brit’s got us again. Had to order the rear quarter glass. It’ll be here probably next week. It should be much easier to install though.


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