1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Build

So I emailed Chrysler with my VIN inquiring about the build sheet. They responded quickly and were helpful, but I have a few questions...

The build sheet states:
"DMAS 4.30 Axle Ratio" That seems incredibly high to me? Did Jeep make a towing package with 4.30 gears?

Also, this:
"DGA All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGHS 4-Spd. Automatic 36RH Transmission" Did Jeep even make a 4 speed in the Wagoneers?

And finally:
" DJGS 215MM Front Axle
DRKS Dana 44/226MM Rear Axle" So the track width is different front to rear, or I don't have a D44 in the front?

Anyone who is good with Jeep's Wagoneer production and build codes who could help would be really appreciated!
 

lumpskie

Independent Thinker
So I emailed Chrysler with my VIN inquiring about the build sheet. They responded quickly and were helpful, but I have a few questions...

The build sheet states:
"DMAS 4.30 Axle Ratio" That seems incredibly high to me? Did Jeep make a towing package with 4.30 gears?

Also, this:
"DGA All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGHS 4-Spd. Automatic 36RH Transmission" Did Jeep even make a 4 speed in the Wagoneers?

And finally:
" DJGS 215MM Front Axle
DRKS Dana 44/226MM Rear Axle" So the track width is different front to rear, or I don't have a D44 in the front?

Anyone who is good with Jeep's Wagoneer production and build codes who could help would be really appreciated!
I'm not the best FSJ guy but I was under the impression that the tow package came with 3.31 gears vs the standard 2.73. Also, I thought that all Grand Wagoneers only came with the TF727 3 speed. Finally, I've never personally seen a Grand Wagoneer with anything other than D44s F/R... with identical track width.

Again, I'm not a "true" FSJ guy. I own one and enjoy it but don't have all of this info committed to memory by year.
 
I'm not the best FSJ guy but I was under the impression that the tow package came with 3.31 gears vs the standard 2.73. Also, I thought that all Grand Wagoneers only came with the TF727 3 speed. Finally, I've never personally seen a Grand Wagoneer with anything other than D44s F/R... with identical track width.

Again, I'm not a "true" FSJ guy. I own one and enjoy it but don't have all of this info committed to memory by year.
Thanks for the reply - that's kind of what I thought, but wasn't really sure. They are definitely both D44's, and seem to be the same track width by my tape measure, so I think I'm going to chalk it up to the Chrysler information being a little foggy on an almost 30 year old vehicle.
 

Bobzdar

Observer
Thanks for the reply - that's kind of what I thought, but wasn't really sure. They are definitely both D44's, and seem to be the same track width by my tape measure, so I think I'm going to chalk it up to the Chrysler information being a little foggy on an almost 30 year old vehicle.
That doesn't add up, the chrysler 215mm isn't a dana 44. No 4 speed autos, 3.31 gears for tow package and 2.73 gears without tow package. It's almost like they sent you info for an XJ wagoneer, not a grand wagoneer.
 
I would have to agree with Bob on this one. Everything I know of the FSJ world is mostly all 3 speed trannys, being the TH400 and the TF727. 3.31 was the tow package and the 2.73 was the standard. There were plenty of wagoneers that came with the AMC 20 rear end, but you would recognize that pumpkin versus the 44. With the chief, since it was more of the off-road capable rig, 3.54s were also an option, which mine has.

Not to say that AMC could have offered different things, but that is what I know to be the standards.

Also, this is what you want to decode your VIN:

http://oljeep.com/gw/vin-index.html
 

Dr. Marneaus

Station Wagoneer
Late model should be 44's.

At the end of the run the 727's had torque converter lock up if im not mistaken, but never a 4 speed option.
 
Thanks everybody! I guess Chrysler just screwed up on the old VIN - no worries there.

Late model should be 44's.

At the end of the run the 727's had torque converter lock up if im not mistaken, but never a 4 speed option.
Do you have any rubbing with the 4" of lift and 33's? I'd like to do as little lift as I can and run 31's. I was thinking 4", as that's usually accepted as the min, but if I can get away with 2" and not have to do any trimming I'd rather do that.
 
Well, the Wagoneer has just been sitting in the garage while I've been working on the interior, so I decided to see if it would start. It did on the 5th or 6th try and I drove it around the block, and took a better picture of where the interior is currently at. Between the rough idle and the cold starts, EFI is creeping up my to-do list...

In my head I want a 4" lift and 31's, but every time it's out of the garage, I love the stance with the 2" (?) lift and 30x9.5's

Outside.jpgOutside2.jpg
 

lumpskie

Independent Thinker
I'm with you. I like the 2" lift with 30x9.5s as well. I have gotten my Waggy into a number of decently hard trails on that setup... the belly clearance is pretty good on these.
 
A little progress update!

I replaced the steering box this weekend with a new Redhead unit from BJ's. I replaced the supply and return hoses and fittings with new ones from BJ's as well. I'm excited to not have leaking PS fluid everywhere and hopefully a tighter steering feel!
Here is the new box:

Tailgate5.jpg

I also build a wood panel to cover the inside tailgate and replace the carpet that was there. I use the tailgate as a workbench all the time so being able to just brush off sawdust is really nice. It is just some 1/2" birch plywood with red oak surrounds, all coated with spar varnish. The oak will hopefully hold up to dents pretty good, and the plywood was actually really nice - I didn't know birch had birdseyes! The first big scratch is going to hurt, but after all, it is a workbench...

Tailgate1.jpg
Tailgate2.jpg
Tailgate3.jpg
 

uberhahn

Observer
I love it.

I have an '86GW that I'm working on now. I'm taking videos of most things I'm doing (and I'm no expert, at anything).
I have a 2015 JKUR as my daily, and the GW is my wrench fix.

Take a look at the vids. I replaced the front seats with Grand Cherokee seats. Not an easy job, but more comfortable. I saved the original ones if I decide to reupholster them.
I re-did the door panels on my own. I think it has a 4"rancho lift. Manual transfer case shifter has been installed, etc, etc.
Looking forward to your updates.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7whuaEuw4OKpDOiPAPt3rw?view_as=subscriber
 

uberhahn

Observer
I plan on doing wood on the tailgate also, but I think I'm going to inset the stainless trim. We'll see how it goes.
 
I love it.

I have an '86GW that I'm working on now. I'm taking videos of most things I'm doing (and I'm no expert, at anything).
I have a 2015 JKUR as my daily, and the GW is my wrench fix.

Take a look at the vids. I replaced the front seats with Grand Cherokee seats. Not an easy job, but more comfortable. I saved the original ones if I decide to reupholster them.
I re-did the door panels on my own. I think it has a 4"rancho lift. Manual transfer case shifter has been installed, etc, etc.
Looking forward to your updates.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7whuaEuw4OKpDOiPAPt3rw?view_as=subscriber
I plan on doing wood on the tailgate also, but I think I'm going to inset the stainless trim. We'll see how it goes.
Thanks! I've seen most of your older videos - the one about deep cleaning the door lock and window switches was extremely helpful, and has been on my to-do list since then. I might have some more detailed questions for you here soon, as I just bought a manual transfer case shifter but have yet to install it.
I'll be excited to see your interpretation of the wood on the tailgate, especially with stainless trim. I might have to redo mine someday, the surface of corner joints already shifted... I didn't realize that the metal tailgate is not really flat (or at least mine isn't).
 
One more question for you guys:

I'm pretty new to working with engines, so I was just looking around and saw this. The bolts on my exhaust manifold (header?) are all loose or have some kind of gap between the bottom of the bolt head and the manifold... Is this normal? Should I tighten them?

Bolt1.jpgBolt2.jpg
 
Do you hear or have any exhaust leaks? If not, if it were me I would leave them be. Rusty manifold bolts can be quite the nightmare. If you do have a leak or suspect you do, I would hit them all with PB blaster numerous times and let it sit. Then I would drive around quite a bit then directly there after try to tighten or loosen then so that everything is hot. But back to my first point. If no leaks, better to leave it alone.


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