1990 Comanche Build - The Wilderbeest

agamble

Member
The third item on my punch list that I tackled with my self isolation was the windshield.

The windshield has leaked on the passenger side for quite some time. Anytime that it rained or snowed, regardless of the amount, I was guaranteed a puddle on the passenger floor board if the Jeep was left outside. The easy solution that I had been doing was parking it in the garage and not driving it when there was precipitation in the forecast. I finally got a crack in the windshield from a stray rock the other day so it was time for a new windshield. I set up an appointment with Safelite, and when to the shop to have the windshield replaced. Figured I'd be in and out in the 2-hour window that they gave. 30-minutes into the appointment the technician asks me to follow him out in the bay, where it begins to show the rust running around the outside edge of the windshield. He lets me know that there is too much rust to put in the new windshield and I need to take it to a body shop or clean it up myself before they can install the new windshield. So I schedule an appointment for later that day for a mobile technician to come out and remove the windshield. Once it was removed I began the tedious task of removing all the previous eurathane and rust accumulated from over the years.

I think it was a little rusty. Unsurprisingly most of the rust was on the passenger side of the cab.
C0DDBD5C-EB48-4BE8-952A-511445800945.jpeg

6D86772E-475E-49F8-8B6D-32490C5511BC.jpeg

The silver lining in this is the rust was superficial. A days' worth of work with a wire wheel, wire brush, and 60 grit sand paper had all the rust removed. When only shiny metal was showing a wipe down with xylene and denatured alcohol removed any remaining grease, oil, or what have you. Then a nice healthy coat of auto primer was laid down to protect the exposed metal.
2D1FDB17-24ED-4A60-96A6-FDEE18B351EE.jpeg

With all the rust removed the mobile tech returned and installed the new windshield with the newer style molding.
C79176D4-C6AA-48AC-BFF9-9C8EBE52D548.jpeg
 

agamble

Member
Recently upgraded the battery cables in the Comanche. The goal was to upgrade the current battery cables with finer strand cables and replace the inline fuse to the alternator.

When searching the internet for Big 3 battery cables most kits averaged >$110 and used 2AWG cable. 2AWG is overkill as it’s rated to carry 190-250 amps offer a distance <5ft. The limiting factor in most Renix systems is going to be the alternator. As 4AWG cable can easily handle up 190 amps it’s plenty big enough. Especially since at this point the Comanche still has the stock with the stock alternator at this point in time. In the end I decided to make my own cables using information found on other jeep forums.

Here is a list of the specific parts I used to complete the project (totaling ~$75):
  • Copper welding Cable Flxible Rubber SGR Battery Cable (4 Gauge, Color Black) (x8 ft.) batterycableusa.com
  • Copper welding Cable Flxible Rubber SGR Battery Cable (4 Gauge, Color Red) (x9 ft.) batterycableusa.com
  • Battery Cable Ends, Lugs, Ring Terminal Connectors, Tin Plated Pure Copper, (Wire AWG Gauge size 4) Hole size 3/8" (x10) batterycableusa.com
  • Battery Cable Ends, Lugs, Ring Terminal Connectors, Tin Plated Pure Copper, (Wire AWG Gauge size 4) Hole size 1/4" (x3) batterycableusa.com
  • Battery Cable Ends, Lugs, Ring Terminal Connectors, Tin Plated Pure Copper, (Wire AWG Gauge size 4) Hole size 3/16" (x1) batterycableusa.com
  • Battery Cable Ends, Lugs, Ring Terminal Connectors, Tin Plated Pure Copper, (Wire AWG Gauge size 4) Hole size 1/2" (x1) batterycableusa.com
  • Solder Slug Pellets - Flux Core to fit 4AWG Lugs/Top Post Terminals (x14) batterycableusa.com
  • CL-Flux (x1) batterycableusa.com
  • 1 ft section Heavy Wall 3M ITCSN Heat Shrink Tubing Adhesive Glue Lined (0.80 in diam., Color Black) (x1) batterycableusa.com
  • 1ft section Heavy Wall 3M ITCSN Heat Shrink Tubing Adhesive Glue Lined (0.80 in diam., Color Red) (x1) batterycableusa.com
  • KOLACEN ANL Gold Plated Fuse 150 Amp + ANL fuse holder Amazon.com
  • Ampler Military Spec Battery Terminal End Amazon.com

9165E411-B54F-48F3-A935-26192BB02288.jpeg

To make installing the cables easier, I used military spec battery terminals. These are nice in that they allow for ease when bolting on additional accessories.

Making of the cables was straight forward. Remove existing cable, cut new one to similar length (for non existent cables I ran length of string to size them), solder on lug terminals, cover with heat shrink tubing. Here is the final specs of each cable:

Battery Cable Cable Length Cable Termination
B(+) to starter motor 40" 3/8" hole lug both ends
B(+) to starter motor relay/distribution 16" 3/8" hole lug, 1/4" hole lug
Starter motor relay to ANL fuse 14" 3/16" hole lug, 3/8" hole lug
ANL fuse to alternator 30" 3/8" hole lug, 1/4" hole lug
B(-) to engine block 40" 3/8" hole lug both ends
B(-) to inner fender 8" 3/8" hole lug, 1/4" hole lug
Engine block to firewall 12" 3/8 hole lug, 1/2" hole lug

4D9671B4-DA1D-4E61-A263-82CA01695A60.jpeg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,891
Messages
2,879,282
Members
225,450
Latest member
Rinzlerz
Top