Man, I love your updates Andrew. A little truck, a little life, and a lot of just good reading!
From a while back, I recall you were going to school, for engineering I think... Still working for some sort of DOT organization I assume? Did you get your degree?
Hopefully life is working out well in that respect...
It may not solve the issue exactly, but putting in a heated O2 might improve driveability some... I'm about do do the same in my new-to-me 1993 K2500 suburban. It tends to surge going in and out of open loop when going downhill... The first thing to check on these old TBI trucks is the vacuum lines. The old plastic lines get brittle and break, leading to vacuum leaks. If the line to the MAP sensor breaks or leaks, it will go rich on you...
Good memory, yes I finished up a civil tech program I had started in my youth. It's paid off 3 times over at the moment. I work in local government and have been very fortunate when it comes to opportunities to advance lately.
Thanks for the suggestions. I think* it's a tps issue. I'm going to mess around with it a bit and see if I get any noticeable change. If not, I'll definitely be digging deeper.
Really enjoy reading your camper build and your adventures. You are living the life that I can only dream.
I am really inspire to build a lift top camper similar yours but a little worry about the actuator raising and lowering issue and also the seal. From what I can gather, your camper have only moving restriction on the two side and not the rear or the front? How is the is the seal working out? Is there anything you would do differently if you were to do it again?
Keep it up!
Thanks, really appreciate that.
The camper is limited in side to side movement, and also restricted in forward movement by a strip of HDPE at the very back.
It can slide backwards but I also have internal stops on the actuators. It's not ideal to have the actuators prevent movement when they are at full extension but it's a safety, just in case. Once the top is popped and the walls are up, it cannot move at all.
The seal is working very well, it's a 3/4" D shaped bulb seal.
I learned a lot on this build and if I were to do it again there are a few things I would change.
- Originally purchased a synchronizing actuator set up
- I would have gone with a slightly larger gap, maybe 1" all the way around. 3/4" is a bit tight but it works.
- Lighter material, I could have probably dropped 100 lbs is if I went a thinner aluminum sheet & lighter wall tubing
- I think I would go with sandwich panel for the upper box next time
A few other things but that sums most of it up.
Been away visiting family in Ontario for a weekish,
Got a little riding in
Some much needed R&R at the family cabin
Beers and a bonfire with the old man & brother
back to regular business,
New upper WJ balljoints are in,
Front axle is almost* complete
Picked up a couple of donuts to get these axles off of the jack stands. They are an absolute bear to move around now. I also needed a way of getting the truck into the garage for repairs after the SAS swap is complete. The way it sits now w/ the camper on, I have all of 1" clearance to the top of the header. With more of a light and 33's, there is no way it's coming in the garage without smaller tires.
This IRO truss kit was designed for the stock short arm suspension. With the long arm kit, the upper radius arm contacts the truss hard at the moment. I'll pick up some scrap and loop it down to alleviate the issue.
Next up is burning these together.
I draw a lot of inspiration from other builds. This one is pretty awesome,
Also, wow this thing is such an awesome unit!