1984 LC for $2,000 +/-? Should I buy it?

[Dave Bennett]

A buddy is moving to the east coast and so his beloved 84 LC is up for sale... it's been in the family since new (NorCal) and he is the second owner. Meticulous maintenance and receipts.

1984, 5-spd manual trans, carb (non-EFI), tan paint, 280K (motor rebuilt in the last 10 yrs sometime), runs but has power loss on 3 cylinders (I think it needs a head gasket), has been registered in CA on a non-op status these last 2 yrs. I'm looking at it this week and checking for smog records obviously (CA!).

Problem is, I don't know what it's worth or what to look out for in these (FJ60 Series?) so I'm posting here for some pointers.

What is the going rate for these? If I offered say, 2K it could be mine but I need to know more about these first. 60 Series are my faves though

I'll post vin tomorrow.

 

[4xdog]

That's a rhetorical question, isn't it, Doc? If it's rust free, and you buy it and don't want it after all, call me and it can come to MO! And you'll be more than whole. My company has a plant and offices in SD, so it'll be a business trip.

 

[Christian P.]

Absolutely.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Confirm its 5 speed, that was not a US option but can/has easily been added to many 60's over the years. When shoping for an FJ60 its body, body and body imo. Mechanical is relatively easy to fix and upgrade compared to rusty frames, cancer filled bodies and damaged interior.

Most likely it has the H42 4spd trans, still a great tranny but the 4 speed leave many wanting and thus the factory Toyota H55F 5 speed is a great option and a pretty straighforward swap.

 

[fowldarr]

agreed, if it really has a five speed, I would buy it, just for parts if nothing else. If you need a second parts cruiser let me know, I've been trying to decide what to do with mine...

 

[PirateMcGee]

seems high to me for that many miles and an engine that is not up to snuff

 

[Dave Bennett]

OK, what problem areas should I look at? Rust prone areas? Preferable rare options?

 

[MoGas]

OK, what problem areas should I look at? Rust prone areas? Preferable rare options?

The pinch welds of the rear quarters, all the drain hole areas (at the bottom of all the doors and the hatch) bottoms of the "A" pillars, frame rails to the side of the spare tire at the aft most spring attachment point, the lower horizontal sill of the hatch and rear side glass, inside the rear quarters, especially the left side below the washer bag.

That's probably a good start.

Does it still have the trouble light?

Dave

 

[Dave Bennett]

Thanks Dave, I'll look for those details.

Pics posted above in first post!

 

[Flagster]

I would also say look for rust between the rear frame cross member and chrome bumper in the area of the two center bolts...just pulled my bumper off Sunday and there was a quite a bit starting on the cross member...hard to see without the bumper off though...
Seems like a reasonable price...if rust "free" or close to it...
I paid 2500 for mine...with less engine needs...but I definitely didn't want to be forever chasing rust...

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

Dave, I agree with those above: If it's mostly rust-free, and the transmission is indeed a factory H55, go for it. Even if the engine is toast, you can buy a good long block for $1200 or so.

Since you're in California, I'd also make sure all the emissions equipment is on the engine - that stuff is expensive to replace.

 

[Flagster]

or you can have my emissions equipment when I tear it off...

 

[Dave Bennett]

Thanks guys.

 

[BIGdaddy]

Thanks guys.

So.......?

 

[Dave Bennett]

So.......?

I'll get back once I see it and drive it :costumed-smiley-007