Awesome build. That is a ton of work! Be careful with the 335/80/20 tires and surplus 20” military wheels. Most are made for the bead of a 365 tire. I had to cut 2” off the outside diameter of my mrap wheels to get the tire bead to seat properly.View attachment 760555
Damn, a whole inch eh?! Wouldn't have thought it'd be that much. I've been following your build - I'm a fan of it! I was under the impression that all MPT wheels bead profiles were the same, regardless of if 335's or 365's were going on. Guess not eh?
Given the inability to source new date code surplus tires up here, or find new ones easily, let alone for a reasonable price... One thought did occur to me: Overseas Chinese/Taiwanese tires. I was initially leery, but they are DOT rated of course, and a massive share of the big rigs run them here. It's one of the few ways I could easily source 20" tires (e.g. Annaite 339) in Canada. Practically speaking; the alternatives are running 22.5's, running 20" surplus Michelins or Continentals with a year or two left on the date code, or just sticking with my Humvee tires and the weight restrictions inherent to running them as singles (I could hypothetically dual them - I wouldn't be the first).
- This is one ambitious project! Love what you're doing and look forward to seeing it on our Ontario roads one day.
Thank you - looking forward to seeing you around!
I love this build. Many builds are slow and lots of talk. Your dumping hours into this thing and showing it in like 5 pics. This thing is rad man. Love the ”im just gonna build this….” Approach. It’s clear you think things out. But you don’t get bogged in over analyzing stuff. props on the fab skills.
Thanks dude! It's damn laborious, but I wouldn't trade it for anything. I'm one to ge distracted easily... so the less talk, the less pics, the more "actually getting stuff done" the better haha.
Sometimes you just have to go for it and not look back. It's been fun seeing my fab skills progress with this build - especially so when it's self-directed.
Some other fun stuff:
Any of you who've spent time in the catering industry or in convention centers might know what these are... Vacuum-insulated beverage and soup canisters, basically. I bought one for a hundred bucks, similar to the one in the photo. Given they're vacuum-insulated, they're about as thermally efficient as you could feasibly get in a small package - 5 gallons in my case. I've since adapted the spigot to accept NPT fittings, and the lid will be modified to accept a thermocouple, water inlet, and heating element. I ran some experiments testing the efficiency, and it did pretty damn well:
Sorry in advance for mixing units lol... Basically; the red plot is the worst-case scenario; the Aervoid was kept in a cold garage, on the concrete floor but with an insulated pad beneath it. It "kept temperature" (140°F to 120°F, 20°F drop) for 5 hours
Aervoid's own benchmark test was for 6 hours
; that's the blue plot.
Indoors, 22°C, on the same insulated pad as used before with an inferior lid made of just a bath towel and a piece of aerogel fabric (meant to simulate a moderately insulated DIY lid that isn't vacuum insulated but has provisions for a heater element, water inlet, temp probe, etc); temperature was retained for about 7 hours.
This is the purple plot.
Indoors, 22°C, on the same insulated pad as used before, and with the vacuum-insulated lid; temperature dropped 20°F over 8.5 hours.
This is the green plot.
The idea is that once water is heated, it can stay heated throughout the day, and I can have a small albeit constant source of hot water in the bus. More importantly; this is efficient enough that I could heat water purely off of solar if I really want to. Assuming I could retain heat for 8 hours with a custom lid that falls between the best two cases in terms of efficiency: It takes 12.35 watts to raise my 5 gallon water tank by 1 degree in 1 hour. To raise it 20°F, that's 247Wh of energy, expended every 8 hours, or 741Wh each day to keep the water warm. Assuming 800Wh for inefficiencies; that's 10% of my daily insolation assuming 8kWh are generated by a 2kWh panel array each day. Or, 6% of my total battery bank. In the winter, I'd be using a wood stove and/or diesel heater to keep warm, so insolation then is less of a concern as waste heat would be directed to the hot water tank (e.g. scavenged off of exhaust).