12v Power Panel - Couple Questions

[PNWadventures]

I am looking to run power to the back of my truck and figured you all will have some helpful advice. I would like to mount something like this, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0741C4F78, in the back of the truck by the tailgate. I would like to wire it in parallel to the switch so I can turn off the unit when not in use. After some research it appears that I should use a 15A fuse. Is this correct? I would like to be able to use both USBs and charge a laptop off the 12v outlet.

For the wiring... I was thinking of using 10-12 gauge cable for the run from the battery to the tailgate. I narrowed it down to this gauge after consulting this website, http://www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/. I am not sure which gauge to use to connect the individual units together.

So, the questions I have are:

1) What gauge wire should I use to run the ~10-15 feet from the battery to tailgate area?

2) What size and where should the fuse be placed? By the battery or in the back by the panel?

4) What gauge wire should be used to connect the individual units together?

5) Should I install a fuse block in the back then connect the panel unit to that? In case I have additional accessories I would like to add in the future. Such as lighting.

Thank you!

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

Go here and pick out your own devices and have more options. The switches offered are only rated for 15 amps. So if you plan on using it to completely shut off the panel you can only draw a max of all loads on the panel of 15 amps. One way to add more if you want is to use a 6 hole panel and use two switches to split up your devices.
https://powerwerx.com/panel-mounts
For 15 amps at 10-15 feet 10 gauge will be fine.

 

[john61ct]

Check out twist-lock plugs to match the socket.

Regular "ciggie port" plugs are an unreliable design.

Theirs may be compatible with Blue Sea's or Marinco/BEP/Guest.

Don't try to charge big batteries that way, bigger wires and Anderson connectors are the way to go for that.

But an efficient 12V compressor fridge should be fine, maybe 4-6A.

 

[rayra]

heh, nothing changes with you. Always with a snipe or mock when someone is looking for help. Like some sort of Bot.

OP, I'd suggest going a bit thicker. You're running wire anyway, so maybe keep some options open for future improvements like a fridge. Think of it as a main feed, put a fuse block at the rear to individually fuse your ports and be able to run full load to all of them simultaneously. Might come in handy in a natural disaster. Options.

 

[john61ct]

Always with a snipe or mock when someone is looking for help.

If that was addressed to me, I am bewildered. Nothing I stated (here or anywhere) was intended to do anything but help.

If you think anything I post is factually incorrect I welcome feedback, I love learning new things and do so every day.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

I am lost too. I don't know who that comment was meant for.

 

[NevetsG]

Likely a deleted reply.

You could charge any battery with any gauge wire as long as you can control the amp draw of the charger. Small wire, less amperage, longer recharge times. Versus big wire, high amperage, short recharge times.

 

[rayra]

If that was addressed to me, I am bewildered. Nothing I stated (here or anywhere) was intended to do anything but help.

If you think anything I post is factually incorrect I welcome feedback, I love learning new things and do so every day.

settle down, Francis. That was directed to Verkstad. Guy always denigrates noob questions / questioners.

 

[john61ct]

You could charge any battery with any gauge wire as long as you can control the amp draw of the charger.

Very few charge regulators sold to consumers allow the user to de-rate the current levels.

A current-limiting combiner is usually a much less expensive solution.

In the old days, very clueful folk used the wire gauge itself to limit current levels, but it would be dangerous to advise that for ordinary laymen, high risk of fires!

And these days we know how important correct voltage is for bank longevity.

 

[john61ct]

settle down, Francis. That was directed to Verkstad. Guy always denigrates noob questions / questioners.

Maybe better to quote FFR.

I don't think his post was all that harsh myself.

Best to just address the factual accuracy of posts' content rather than trying to police tone. IMO.

And who the heck is Francis? Is tgat some pop culture reference I'm missing?

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

How did we get onto charging batteries? I went back an re-read the OP and no where did he mention he wanted to charge batteries.
The panel he linked to is a 15 amp panel and for the distance he stated 10 ga wire is plenty for that load. Now since no one answered his main question, you should place a circuit protection device as near the battery as you can get it.

 

[DLTooley]

There are calculators out there for wire gauge and voltage loss. You do want to consider water for the particular receptacle setup you have. The picture of the wired box above has a lot of the common components, including a fuse block. You could mount the receptacles inside the box for protection when not in use.

Here's a box that's on my project buy list, from a youtube video:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/FGV5GIUXY8RP

How connections are made is important and there are a variety of options. Anderson Powerpole might be the best but they are spendy and require a specialized crimping tool.

 

[luthj]

1. There are plenty of calculators. Here is one. For non critical loads, 3-4% drop is acceptable (lights phone chargers etc). For critical loads (fridge, sensitive electronics), aim for 1-2%.
http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/

2. The fuse is selected to protect the wire or smaller. So for 10 gauge 30A is the max, but you can go to 15A if thats your max load. The feed for the panel should be fused as close to the power source (battery) as practical.

4. Use the calculator, but 14 gauge should be fine. Remember that you need to select the fuse based on the minimum sized wire in the circuit. SO if you use much smaller wire to hook up the devices, you need to select a smaller fuse, or put a second fuse where the lower gauge branch connects. In general a short low gauge run (such as hooking up that volt meter) would be okay without a separate fuse, just protect the wire well from shorts.

5. You don't have to add a fuse block assuming you follow the fusing rules with regards to branch wire sizing. However if you plan to add accessories later, installing a block now would save you some work down the road. Remember that the main run back to the battery should be sized based on your expected load. So if you are adding a 30A block, a large wire may be called for.

For longer runs, using a chassis ground can save you some voltage drop, and the cost of wire. Make sure to choose a good spot though. Factory ground points are a good choice.

 

[john61ct]

Yes Circuit Wizard is IMO the best calculator, can download it as a smartphone app.

Understanding the various factors involved is very educational, ask Qs here.

Don't forget to double the distance for round trip return