1120 AF Build in Norway

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
I think yours design is coming along nicely and should be pretty comfortable. You will get a heap of dust on the rear window, but it sure looks like a nice place to hang out. For us, the only time a sunken set of entry steps would be nice is when we have visitors. I do plan though to revise our design a bit to widen the treads and have a third step that retracts from the bottom. This will allow us to not use the 2 step, step ladder (which we only use sometimes). One thing about the steps protruding perpendicular is we can use them with the platform not extended, so easy and quick to swing out. Your step design looks good, how do they store? I am assuming there is a slot above the rear storage box?

As far as a cab pass thru, I can say I really don't miss or wish we had one. One thing with the LN2 trucks is the cab is smaller, plus with the 1120 the hump over the engine is higher than non intercooled trucks (I think the air plumbing is taller). With @Joe917 's truck I think his cab roof is also taller and so it makes the door probably larger and more usable. We could do a pass thru but it would definitely be a crawl thru.

So, for all the fun gear you mentioned. We have full back packing gear, MTB's, wetsuits, motorcycle helmets, 2 person inflatable kayak etc. One thing you might want to do is collect this stuff (if you have it already) and plan your rear under bed storage for it. Ours is a bit of a jumbled mess and I need to get back in there to build some organization shelves. In addition to those fun things you will also probably want an outdoor table and chairs, so even more space...

For your gray water, will it be outside? If so have you planned on a heating source for it (knowing what I know now I would have had in internal pipe built into our gray tank to allow our hydronic furnace to directly keep it from freezing)? Also, I know some people plumb the pee tanks to the gray water tank but I am not sure I would do that. For us a good portion of our time has been camping in remote spots with friends. Most of the time we all just leave our gray water drain valves open. One of the trucks we traveled with had a external under truck pee tank, it looked to be about 3 gallons and they could remove it as needed to drain it (though it might have had a direct drain valve also, but I never saw them use it like that).
 

Geo.Lander

Active member
Thanks for the feedback Jon!

As far as a cab pass thru, I can say I really don't miss or wish we had one
We actually measured our truck up for a crawl hatch over the bed, but then we would have to remove the bench seat in the rear of the cab which we really want to keep. And it also massively complicates things with our re-registration process for the truck here if we mess with anything in the drivers cab (including seats, etc).

I think yours design is coming along nicely and should be pretty comfortable. You will get a heap of dust on the rear window, but it sure looks like a nice place to hang out.
Good point, I especially in winter up here. The Outbound windows have options for hardcovers, i might look into that (y)

So, for all the fun gear you mentioned. We have full back packing gear, MTB's, wetsuits, motorcycle helmets, 2 person inflatable kayak etc. One thing you might want to do is collect this stuff (if you have it already) and plan your rear under bed storage for it.
Yea, we have it all then some, we have GAS (Gear acquisition syndrome) pretty bad. We are planning on the rear toolboxes going full internal width, and hoping to keep skis, kite boards and larger items in the drivers side full length box, never enough storage, not sure what we will be doing with the kites etc yet..

For your gray water, will it be outside? If so have you planned on a heating source for it (knowing what I know now I would have had in internal pipe built into our gray tank to allow our hydronic furnace to directly keep it from freezing)? Also, I know some people plumb the pee tanks to the gray water tank but I am not sure I would do that. For us a good portion of our time has been camping in remote spots with friends. Most of the time we all just leave our gray water drain valves open. One of the trucks we traveled with had a external under truck pee tank, it looked to be about 3 gallons and they could remove it as needed to drain it (though it might have had a direct drain valve also, but I never saw them use it like that).
Another valid point, we have spec'd a heavily insulated grey tank but not heated. My heating plans a still a little up in the air right now going back and forth between the hydronic furnace in the engine "room" and the Truma combi diesel. I expect we will go the hydronic furnace route and install additional webasto air blower for the bathroom. I have been mulling installing a low profile underfloor system (PEX pipes)... I need to spend more time on this subject for sure.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Thanks for the feedback Jon!



We actually measured our truck up for a crawl hatch over the bed, but then we would have to remove the bench seat in the rear of the cab which we really want to keep. And it also massively complicates things with our re-registration process for the truck here if we mess with anything in the drivers cab (including seats, etc).



Good point, I especially in winter up here. The Outbound windows have options for hardcovers, i might look into that (y)



Yea, we have it all then some, we have GAS (Gear acquisition syndrome) pretty bad. We are planning on the rear toolboxes going full internal width, and hoping to keep skis, kite boards and larger items in the drivers side full length box, never enough storage, not sure what we will be doing with the kites etc yet..



Another valid point, we have spec'd a heavily insulated grey tank but not heated. My heating plans a still a little up in the air right now going back and forth between the hydronic furnace in the engine "room" and the Truma combi diesel. I expect we will go the hydronic furnace route and install additional webasto air blower for the bathroom. I have been mulling installing a low profile underfloor system (PEX pipes)... I need to spend more time on this subject for sure.

Our back (glass) window gets layered with mud/dirt in the winter and off road. I need a ladder to clean it properly so it only gets hosed off.

A hydronic towel rack for drying clothes works great and a blower set up with hoses works for boots......but.....make sure to have LOTS of venting (in and out) otherwise you'll have too much condensation and boots smell.....storage compartment might be a better drying area

If possible add a hydronic loop to the grey tank/valves so it can be connected later. My tanks and valves are insulated with 2" XPS. Below -10C (much depends on the wind chill) I start to heat (forced air duct) the tank compartment to protect the valves.

I'd do hydronic (never electric) floors in an instant. We don't have hydronic but our forced air heating ducts run under the floor. It takes about an hour for the floor to heat up before we can walk around in our socks. We also have duct that blows warm air under our bed.
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
Our back (glass) window gets layered with mud/dirt in the winter and off road. I need a ladder to clean it properly so it only gets hosed off.

A hydronic towel rack for drying clothes works great and a blower set up with hoses works for boots......but.....make sure to have LOTS of venting (in and out) otherwise you'll have too much condensation and boots smell.....storage compartment might be a better drying area

If possible add a hydronic loop to the grey tank/valves so it can be connected later. My tanks and valves are insulated with 2" XPS. Below -10C (much depends on the wind chill) I start to heat (forced air duct) the tank compartment to protect the valves.
It is interesting that you rear window gets covered in mud or dust, our does not. We get a bit of dust on our rear storage bag , but not that much. This might be due to the aerodynamics with the chamfered rear I went with to try and reduce the dust and mud on the rear. The "air tabs" have reduced the dust on the bikes and bag as well. I am in the process of making a new storage compartment for the rear of the truck, as the old one made putting the bikes on the bike rack a bit difficult. The photo below shows the rear end of our truck.

2021-03-25 14.06.56.jpg



We put our water tanks in the rear storage compartment under the bed, and fitted a heating loop in the compartment to keep the water from freezing. Our Webasto 90ST puts out over 9kW of heat, more than enough to keep our truck warm down to about -20C according to my calculations, and less if we insulate the windscreen and side windows. It is currently plumbed so it also heat the engine block as well, and thehoses run close to the grey water tank and fuel tank, but I will still need some electric heating pads for cold weather. The battery compartment in the rear is force ventilated from the hot water tank compartment, which I hope will help keep that warm, a LiFePo don't work in sub-zero temperatures. It is something I will need to monitor, once we find some cold weather. I raised the batteries off the metal compartment with 30mm of polyurethane foam, so they have no direct contact to the cold surface, and with the warm air being blown in, this may be enough, time will tell.
 
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Geo.Lander

Active member
A little progress getting the final design finished for the box makers, finally think we have the window positions finalised with the seating heights etc, we have extended the platform a little (now 30cm) and added some tweaks to the width and height now modelled with the foam we will be using.

Screenshot 2021-07-27 at 09.39.12.png

Our shower tray will be aluminium instead of stainless as we will be adding a teak marine board there anyway (and probably lining the inside in cork).

We have also decided not to use the Outbound hatch (so if anyone want to buy it from me let me know) and getting a full sized custom hatch made with KCT locks/latches.

Screenshot 2021-07-27 at 09.42.03.png

We have also removed the custom water tank and gone with an off the shelf one, this saved us about 1500€


Screenshot 2021-07-27 at 09.41.48.png

Screenshot 2021-07-27 at 09.46.44.png
 

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Iain_U1250

Explorer
Great models, your bed ( assuming the bed is against the cab) looks quite high if you add a base and a mattress, our works out to be around 300mm deep. We have a slatted base, and a 200mm latex mattress. It was well worth it, our bed is very comfortable. We also made sure we had enough headroom over the bed, as we didn't want to feel trapped. We have seen plenty of campers where you cannot even kneel on the bed without hitting your head, that was not for us. Shelves around the outside and head of the bed are very useful so we and put cups and our books, ipads, etc on without having to get out of bed.

Having the bed low does mean our storage under the bed is less, but like everything, it's a compromise and a decision as to what's more important, and we spend a lot of time in bed :)

vlcsnap-2021-07-27-22h09m22s986.png
 

Alloy

Well-known member
We have also removed the custom water tank and gone with an off the shelf one, this saved us about 1500€
My custom (120L) 10mm LDPE tanks were 10% more than my off the shelf (110L) 10mm PE roto mold tanks.

The custom tanks had a 1 1/2" taper+ a cut out on the bottom so none of the parts where the same.
 

Geo.Lander

Active member
Great models, your bed ( assuming the bed is against the cab) looks quite high if you add a base and a mattress, our works out to be around 300mm deep. We have a slatted base, and a 200mm latex mattress. It was well worth it, our bed is very comfortable. We also made sure we had enough headroom over the bed, as we didn't want to feel trapped. We have seen plenty of campers where you cannot even kneel on the bed without hitting your head, that was not for us. Shelves around the outside and head of the bed are very useful so we and put cups and our books, ipads, etc on without having to get out of bed.

Having the bed low does mean our storage under the bed is less, but like everything, it's a compromise and a decision as to what's more important, and we spend a lot of time in bed :)

View attachment 673435
The bed height was an issue to be honest. Need the space in the garage for our bikes so after the mattress and base is installed we are left with just over 1m of head height, enough to sit-up in bed comfortably at least but maybe not for me to kneel (194cm). It's always a trade-off 🤷‍♂️
 

Geo.Lander

Active member
My custom (120L) 10mm LDPE tanks were 10% more than my off the shelf (110L) 10mm PE roto mold tanks.

The custom tanks had a 1 1/2" taper+ a cut out on the bottom so none of the parts where the same.
We've been quoted almost 2000€ Vs 370€ euro for off the shelf. Same materials etc. I suppose prices are quite different depending on location and timeline. I contacted some other suppliers too and 2000€ seemed about the meridian for our specific design. I was a long thin tall tank to occupy the wall space.
 

Joe917

Explorer
You look to be very short on interior storage. All I see is the tall cabinet for clothes, where is your food going? refrigerator? Do you have a spot for shoes? You will need a sliding dinette table if you want to get in or out from the kitchen side.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
We've been quoted almost 2000€ Vs 370€ euro for off the shelf. Same materials etc. I suppose prices are quite different depending on location and timeline. I contacted some other suppliers too and 2000€ seemed about the meridian for our specific design. I was a long thin tall tank to occupy the wall space.

My tanks are installed with a 2 degree slope and a drain in the bottom corner so everything can be drained out of the tanks.

I've found the floor to be the most used area in the storage compartment while the top/ceiling of the compartment isn't used. Can the tank be lifted off the floor....or the extra 1500 euro might be well spent considering how tight the storage is.
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
You look to be very short on interior storage. All I see is the tall cabinet for clothes, where is your food going? refrigerator? Do you have a spot for shoes? You will need a sliding dinette table if you want to get in or out from the kitchen side.
Joe has a point, I would look into trying and designing some overhead cabinets (all of our dishes, glasses, some clothes and a lot of other things are stored there). Might cause you to rethink the height of your windows though. We do really enjoy being able to see out of our windows both while standing (though you are taller than we are) and sitting, but it limited the height of our overhead cabinets. We have enough space (though more would be nice, which would mean a bigger truck ;) ), and if you have space you tend to fill it (which add weight to the truck). It is all very tight, the shades/screens have just enough clearance to be installed and no more.

What is the final interior width? We have a standard US queen bed and have enough width to have a bank of cabinets at the head, which is the rest of our clothes storage.
 

Geo.Lander

Active member
You look to be very short on interior storage. All I see is the tall cabinet for clothes, where is your food going? refrigerator? Do you have a spot for shoes? You will need a sliding dinette table if you want to get in or out from the kitchen side.
Hi, yea, we have quite a bit of storage under the seating the and kitchen cabinets and all the overhead storage is not yet modelled the same goes for the kitchen. So the model is not quite complete.
 

Geo.Lander

Active member
What is the final interior width? We have a standard US queen bed and have enough width to have a bank of cabinets at the head, which is the rest of our clothes storage.
Hi Jon, our final interior width is 2303mm and we will be using a 1400*2000 mattress. We were planning on overhead storage only in the bedroom but it might be feasible for a full height bank of cabinets. I am going to work a bit with the overhead cabinets this week, the reason they are not modelled is that I have not yet decided on how they will be constructed (aluminium framing clad in ply vS just plain ply boxes).
 
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