1120 AF Build in Norway

Geo.Lander

Well-known member
HI, what software are you using to do your 3d drawings for your cabin. I'm still drawing out on paper so figured it might help if I can get it into 3d.

Hi Toby, I am using sketchup right now, the free version is pretty good and learning curve isn't as bad as some others. Lots of tutorials online which reminds me I need to take an afternoon and do some too as what I am building right now is very basic.

The next step for us is to take our layout and transform them into proper material compositions.
 

Madoxen

Active member
Fusion 360 is also free for personal use and is very powerfull and not to hard to get used to the basics same learning curve as sketchup. But more tools and utilities that dont get taken away after your 30 day full product trial (before it puts you to free package) like with sketchup. Can also recoment some good you tube chanels to get you started if u would like.
 
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nathane

Active member
Fusion 360 is also free for personal use and is very powerfull and not to hard to get used to the basics same learning curve as sketchup. But more tools and utilities that dont get taken away after your 30 day full product trial (before it puts you to free package) like with sketchup. Can also recoment some good you tube chanels to get you started if u would like.
+1 For fusion, I found it really helpfulbox V3 - using 170 profiles v120.png
 

Geo.Lander

Well-known member
Little update, we are working on the intermediate frame design and storage box options (to be mounted to the subframe). We also have the box size finalized and this is what the overhang and departure angles look like on our chosen design.

We still need to decide on the storage box material, either aluminum, painted steel or maybe stainless if the budget allows (these will be custom made to fit the spaces). Drivers side it will be full length between the axles, passenger side will be made according to the space leftover from 400L tank.

Currently the box is mounted 120mm distance from the cab, this will be reduced to 70mm. Box length is 4800mm and height is 2140mm (ext). Maybe I could go a little higher as we are planning water underfloor heating (15mm plus floor). Box is GRP with GRP profiles (62mm and 80mm in the floor).
1610713067997.png

Our prefered box design at the rear, stairs will be built into the subframe on the passenger side (I hope).
1610713259272.png
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
So last week we got some chassis plans for our truck, the importer did not have the exact ones matching out VIN but managed to construct one from other trucks. If anyone would like a copy please let me know (I have have some plans for the regular cab).

Now if anyone would like the job of converting these into 3D models let me know ?View attachment 635725
If you don't mind please send me the single cab version. I am in process designing the cab roof rack and it would help.
 

Sitec

Adventurer
If you can, make the base of the body match the top of the front wheel arch.... or the rear will always look like its overloaded... If you have to build in a cut out on the floor of the body.
 

Joe917

Explorer
If you can, make the base of the body match the top of the front wheel arch.... or the rear will always look like its overloaded... If you have to build in a cut out on the floor of the body.
You Just described our truck! The high front wheel arches combined with the stainless apron work around the box make it look like the rear is low. I spent a lot of time measuring and checking before I figured out it is just an optical allusion!
 

Joe917

Explorer
You Just described our truck! The high front wheel arches combined with the stainless apron work around the box make it look like the rear is low. I spent a lot of time measuring and checking before I figured out it is just an optical allusion!
maybe I should just paint some "trompe l'oeil" rear arches.
 

Sitec

Adventurer
Yup, lots look like that even though they are fine. I used to be involved in building horse box bodies on trucks in the UK. I always thought the smaller trucks looked overloaded as the arch was way too low, so used to make the front and rear arches similar (or match where possible) on the bigger trucks I built, and it transforms the aesthetics of the vehicle. It's a tiny thing, but well worth considering. :)

Progress 4.jpg
 

Geo.Lander

Well-known member
If you can, make the base of the body match the top of the front wheel arch.... or the rear will always look like its overloaded... If you have to build in a cut out on the floor of the body.

thanks! So try to raise top height of the rear fender arch to match the front guards?
 

Sitec

Adventurer
Yeah, ideally make a cardboard cut-out of the front arch, and then place it over the rear wheel. This will give you a rough idea of where the rear arch needs to be. With the rear body in place you might have to cut an arch into the floor or lift the body a little if you can. This is all based on the truck being level when built... and according to taste! :)
 

Geo.Lander

Well-known member
So, nothing much going on these last few weeks as the lockdown here is intense, our garage also happens to be outside of our residence county so we have not been there in a while. It is a shame because we really want to start stripping out the drivers cab and tackling all the sound insulation and upgrades we have planned there. At this point, I am not sure we will be able to get this done before she is shipped to the UK for her 4 point subframe and box build.

Current state: Gertrude is needing some much needed chassis cleaning and treatment, I am reading about the best approach in in Ulrich's book but any tips for removing rust and treating/painting (recommended process and products) is welcome. I see a lot of fuss about the Raptor products. The front of the truck is totally rust free, however the rear part of the chassis is not, i suppose these harder to clean areas were neglected over the years.

For now, some pretty terrible pictures ? As you can see the parabolics and single tires are on, I need to arrange the certification of the new tire sizes (wheels were 22.5 originally). I am not sure if I need documentation of the single wheels as our registration card does not state single or double at the rear, the paperwork here for any changes to trucks is crazy. At least in Germany and the UK they have test centers, in Norway they want the manufacturers to document this is OK. Not easy.

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