110 ExMOD Defender

[Mike Benton]

Hello Everyone!

Scott, I'll have to stop by your shop next time I'm in Prescott (I live in Phoenix).

I just recently purchased a 1985 ex MOD 110 Wolf Tithonus. It has a superb full roll cage and looks 'almost' brand new. I do have a few questions though.

1. What size jerry cans will fit in the side lockers? I'd hate to buy some that don't fit.
2. How can I be certain of the engine size I have. I'm on the border between 2.25 and 2.5 but can't be sure so far.
3. Are there any known good and reputable Land Rover diesel mechanics in the Phoenix Metro area?
4. LED lighting. Has anyone successfully replaced any of the interior/exterior lighting with LEDs?

That's all I have for now but I'm sure I'll come up with more.

Thank you!

 

[Scott Brady]

We have always used standard NATO "Jerry" cans and they fit fine.

Your engine is most likely a 2.5L NA

 

[Snagger]

Hello Everyone!

Scott, I'll have to stop by your shop next time I'm in Prescott (I live in Phoenix).

I just recently purchased a 1985 ex MOD 110 Wolf Tithonus. It has a superb full roll cage and looks 'almost' brand new. I do have a few questions though.

1. What size jerry cans will fit in the side lockers? I'd hate to buy some that don't fit.
2. How can I be certain of the engine size I have. I'm on the border between 2.25 and 2.5 but can't be sure so far.
3. Are there any known good and reputable Land Rover diesel mechanics in the Phoenix Metro area?
4. LED lighting. Has anyone successfully replaced any of the interior/exterior lighting with LEDs?

That's all I have for now but I'm sure I'll come up with more.

Thank you!

I fit MoD 110 jerrycan lockers to my vehicle and found that though 2 steel NATO cans should fit in each locker, they don't quite manage. That is why the TUM XD (110 Wolf) has lockers with beveled doors. However, you can flatten the cans enough by stamping on them while they're on their sides. Plastic NATO water cans are about 1" wider than the fuel cans (I have no idea why), and I was able to carry one of these with three fuel cans by stamping hard enough on a fuel can side to make it slightly concave, so the water can sits into it. It's far from ideal, but it works.

Only the very earliest 110s had 2.25 diesel engines, but I don't think that included any MoD vehicles. Your engine will have a black painted brake servo vacuum pump where a petrol engine's distributor would be and a large aluminium timing case on the front with the fuel injection pump mounted axially on its aft side, clear of the block, if its a 12J. The engine number will start with "12J", and should be stamped vertically along a flange above the alternator, ahead of the manifolds.

LED bulb replacement is straight forward if you used quality LED units with the same fastenings. The indicator bulbs would need to be replaced with LEDs incorporating ballast resistors, or an appropriate ballast would need adding inside the dash wiring for them, otherwise the flash rate will be severely affected.

 

[NMC_EXP]

Actually, that was a mistake. They are tubed rims, not split rims. Sorry for the confusion.

I've never broken down a Land Rover wheel/tire assembly. However, if the design is similar to that used by Toyota, the correct terminology per U.S. DoT and OSHA is "multi-piece wheel". This is a design in which the wheel/rim portion is solid (not split axially) and the lock ring is split radially and functions as a snap ring.

I mention this distinction because true "split rim" designs in which the main portion of the wheel/rim is split axially and the lock ring is solid, deserve the reputation for being dangerous to service. A conventional "multi-piece" (a.k.a lock ring type wheel) does not, assuming it is in good condition and proper procedure is followed.

If you call a tire shop and ask them about servicing a "split rim", chances are the response will be negative. The reputation of the true split rim design has tainted the multi-piece wheel partially due to the misapplication of the split rim terminology.

The true split rim was nearly extinct back in the 70's. The type could be encountered on 1.5 to 5 ton trucks built prior to the mid 60's.

Regards

Jim

(truck stop tire repairman, 1972 - 77 with one catastrophic inflation failure to my credit, and that was a tubless w/o lock ring)

 

[Antichrist]

I mention this distinction because true "split rim" designs in which the main portion of the wheel/rim is split axially and the lock ring is solid, deserve the reputation for being dangerous to service.

I have split rims on my Lightweight, although the weight of the wheels sort of makes it no longer a lighweight, they are quite heavy compared to a regular steel wheel.
I haven't found them to be particularly dangerous provided the valve core is removed before undoing the 20 or so bolts holding the two pieces together.
They have a very narrow bead width and it's difficult to find tires. 7.50x16 are the only 32" (my preferred diameter) that will really fit.

 

[NMC_EXP]

I have split rims on my Lightweight, although the weight of the wheels sort of makes it no longer a lighweight, they are quite heavy compared to a regular steel wheel.
I haven't found them to be particularly dangerous provided the valve core is removed before undoing the 20 or so bolts holding the two pieces together.
They have a very narrow bead width and it's difficult to find tires. 7.50x16 are the only 32" (my preferred diameter) that will really fit.

Your description sounds like a two piece wheel which splits into halves circumferentially, with the halves bolted together through the center disc.

This type was used on some US military vehicles in the WW2 era and referred to as a "combat rim" in that context. May also be used on current US military HMMWV's?

The "split rim" terminology would be correct for the design you describe.

Goes to show I should not try to put to fine a point on semantic issues.

Regards

Jim

p.s. My FJ40 is still wearing 7.00 x 15 tires.

 

[Snagger]

I have split rims on my Lightweight, although the weight of the wheels sort of makes it no longer a lighweight, they are quite heavy compared to a regular steel wheel.
I haven't found them to be particularly dangerous provided the valve core is removed before undoing the 20 or so bolts holding the two pieces together.
They have a very narrow bead width and it's difficult to find tires. 7.50x16 are the only 32" (my preferred diameter) that will really fit.

Lightweight was always a misnomer, only used by civilians as the vehicles started being sold off, and never used by LR or the MoD; they were referred to as "airportable" or "1/2 Ton", and are in fact considerably heavier than standard 88"s, and not much lighter than a 109!

 

[Antichrist]

Lightweight was always a misnomer, only used by civilians as the vehicles started being sold off, and never used by LR or the MoD; they were referred to as "airportable" or "1/2 Ton", and are in fact considerably heavier than standard 88"s, and not much lighter than a 109!

True, about 130kg more, fully configured. But I always considered the term to be referring to the stripped configuration as when ready for transport by a Wessex. But I use all three terms, depending on what comes to mind first. For instance, in my sig.

 

[OneTen]

Damn, these are some nice looking Ex-Mod 110's. Mine has a long way to go before it look that good.

Although it does sport a new roof now.

Brett

Well, it's been a while but my Ex-MOD 110 has changed in appearance slightly. After lots of pressure washing, paint stripping and sanding, I threw some paint at it, had some bits galvanized and voila...

Brett

 

[Sahararover]

Nice work Brett, looks real good!

 

[LandRoverHyter]

Looks good. Did u paint it yourself?

 

[Mike Benton]

I fit MoD 110 jerrycan lockers ...

I should've said thanks sooner. I went with the standard metal green. With some pushing I can get two in each side. I bought a set of four on sale a few months ago and had them shipped to my office. Co workers were amused at the size of the package.

I do have a 2.5NA as confirmed by the 12J. Surprised that I can't find many willing to work them out here except a family friend by the name of Joe that trained at LR on these so that's a godsend!

I've been doing what I can to learn everything I can about it to be more self sufficient. Ordered up about 5 years worth of oil/fuel filters so I don't have to go through that mess for awhile.

Managed to get my headlights a lot brighter (by replacing the bulbs with some 4000K Sylvanias, I can give a part number if anyone wants it.

Took the top off during the summer, fairly reasonable process. Made my own canvas top for the front, next gear I'll use a thicker canvas.

Made a mess out of the driveway changing fluids. So many places to put them and let them out. I still need find a flat spot to do the diffs in.

I had the heater fuse blow at some point, went to Auto Zone for fuses and bought a multipack of AGC fuses of varying amps. They are just slightly too long to fit in the slot, unless you take a box cutter to the little plastic tabs (about 1 mm in size) on both sides of the fuse socket. Then they'll fit. I would've spent some more time ordering the correct size, but figured I would eventually need to make them fit anyways.

In the beginning I had a hell of a time with oil leaking all over the place. I put a bottle of Bar's Two Part Engine Repair in and went for a 100 mile drive. Sealed it right up. They suggest every few oil changes or so. It's leaked a few spots here and there but nothing compared to the liter/300 miles it was doing before.

The transfer box started leaking too so I used Lucas 80w90 and Bar's transmission repair in it the other day, I'll let you know how it does down the road. As of today there's just a very minor leak which should seal up over the next day.

I am in need of a half back door (tail gate) if anyone has an extra laying around. Preferably in the ex mod green. I'd be happy with a full size to cut down.

 

[Juddy]

Land Rover did make split rims, they were a genuine part, and even available on the consumer market, currently new there $2800 each.

 

[chris snell]

I've never seen a 110 like that before. What exactly is that?

 

[MarkIIa]

That'd be an ex-Australian Army surviellance 110, with Isuzu 3.9D, LT95 gearbox, PTO winch, ROPS, gal chassis and all the best and most robust kit of any Land Rover ever built.