Search results

Would it be sufficiently waterproof with epoxy over plywood?

If it is lashing down rain and sleet while you are packing up, does any wetness trasfer onto the inside? IE will the bedding get wet? This is a problem on my Rockwood 1640 esp

Perhaps you could employ a local steel fab shop to produce a weldment to replace the Cast a-frame hitch. Could even use the same bolt holes.

I suspect they are near capacity and are not interested in low volume custom work

I wonder if they will have parts list and diy people can purchase À la carte

Looks great. Love the photos. Please elaborate on the description about the Chromate primer and wet install

I agree. Spelling and grammar in that post is difficult to understand. Some proper punctuation would help also. their vs there vs they’re

Bump - about a year later and this thread seems to have gone cold

Check out the energy efficiency of the specific inverter you plan to use, a the specific current. I have read ranges of in the mid 80%s

Yep, I agree. There are two problems. 600 pound trailer on 2000 pound springs. and axle placement. It is not practical to move the axle, but it is still possible to elongate the frame and add more weight in front of the axle.

10 mm thickness AirFlo is likely less effective than the Froli

hydorarmor link is 404 Error - Page not found

seems like you have clearly described a situation where you are oversprung. Looks like the lowest spring you can get from Timbren Axleless is 1200 pounds. Still twice your weights. Maybe there is a way you can elongate the arms for more leverage (and travel) and retain the springs you have

Please elaborate and explain what old school thermal breaks are and why they aren't effective? Do you mean to state that a thicker thermal break is less conductive than a thinner one? I assume there are diminishing returns, at a certain point the thermal break U-value is same as the panel...

Thanks for the intro What panel thickness is accommodated with your standard extrusions and caps? I see from the website that the heavy duty is only available in 90° connections and only accommodates 1 5/8” thick panel, but I do not find info on the standard panels

Is there a hand powered economy priced rivet tool that could work? Renting the tool seems like a good idea, but might not be possible in my area Niagara Canada. I might not mind the arm workout to same some $$

Do you use stainless huck bolts to avoid corrosion concerns? at over 300 per frame, the total hardware is vert costly for the DIY builder paying over $1 per Huck Bolt.

For a simple T joint there is 16 rivets - at $1 each. But it is attractive because I cannot weld aluminum, and I have seen the alu welds crack on commercially made trailers.

Do you have a retailer source for the huck bolts? Do you have to use special L brackets? Or can you employ regular 6000 series alloy angle?

What do you mean, they have moved to bevels? I'd like to see how bevels can be used as corner panel connectors