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We had the Heffalump for about 9 years and lived in it for about 5 of those. The previous owner had lived in it full time for 18 years. If you full time in one of these trucks speed becomes less of an issue than if you are doing 1 or 2 week trips. You will probably have to wrench a lot yourself...

The awd is a 9 speed with a low 1st gear

The AWD version makes the conversion to 4wd a waste of time and money, especially with a rear locker.

It is more an issue in places that use butane.

Like Alan says lift the axle when possible. (it's the only way with a 10 tonne truck)

I run maps on an android tablet a fraction of the cost of i#@& no cellular requirement.

How much below an Earthroamer can they price it?

Finally!

The tachometer is the commercial Tack that keeps track of driver hours. There may be a clock involved but I doubt it has any significant draw.

The truck circuits are truck only. No webasto, radio,fridge electric clock🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 The only draws on the truck batteries should be lights, heater fans, air con, starter, wipers, sensors(4X4 locks)

It's a good thing you have a 2000km range!

The only Camper connection to the truck electrical system is the connection to the B2B. Solar,generator, house loads etc. all go through the house batteries. Even the 12v power supplies and the radio in the cab are supplies from the house batteries (probably the spot lights too)

the small red cable goes through the fuse holder top of picture then on to the Sterling B to B charger Those look like small batteries!

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/150612942001 Pretty sure that is the cap, 80 mm sounds right

You're quick, I did not get my picture finished!

I think top is truck bottom is house, could be the other way around!

There is a main battery shut off switch I never used but might be of use to save the batteries until you track this gremlin down. When you face the battery box it is top right behind a stainless vanity cover. You have to turn it with a "key" probably hanging right there, basically any flat piece...

Keep the heater outside the heated envelope, run the coolant lines through the foam.

Check your mounts.

The engine crud in the coolant circuit argument is just a non starter. If you have that much crud you need to flush and replace your coolant! I do maybe see the point about the air in the high rad, but in 10 years in the vehicle it was a non issue. Safety factor, it is oxygen barrier pex rated...