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^^^ This guy makes a lot of sense...

I think that's going to be a problem. Bedrail height, plus 30 inches, plus the thickness of the tent, I think you're gonna be quite a bit taller than the cab.

If I was using it only as a family minivan and grocery-getter, I'd be fine with the 1500. If I'm towing, hauling, camping and even light offroading, I'd go 2500 and not think twice. (And I did.) Better cooling, better engines, better trans, better axles, better suspension. Better choice.

I think it's always going to find a way to flex, and it'll eventually destroy whatever you try to build. . Go with a flexible boot.

How much interior space do you need? . A 2500 4x4 Suburban will cost roughly half what a comparable truck will, and is already enclosed and weathertight. . Not nearly as much space as a truck camper, or even a van, but I "bachelor camp" in the back of mine just fine...

Air shocks use a very, very small volume of air. Since that's all the pump is designed for, I think it'll be terribly undersized for any OBA setup...

A few have mentioned it, but I think it deserves more attention: Going to a Burb will let you upgrade to a 2500. Stronger engine, trans, axles, suspension. All the things the 1500 guys look at upgrading. Mine fit 315s with the stock rear air ride, and just front keys...

Put a direct drive motor on each wheel, and you don't need a trans or diffs at all...

This. I know my rig is a lot lighter, but it gets really squirrely anywhere over 25, and seems happiest around 22. If nothing else, playing with pressure is the easiest, cheapest thing you can try.

3" shackles will lift 1.5". 3" blocks will lift 3".

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I didn't mean to restart the gas v diesel peepee match, sorry. . Yes, I exaggerated a bit. My 2000 F250 was 235/500, and I always saw 340/450 for the 8.1. So 90% of the torque, almost 50% more power. Either way, still more than enough to do what I need. . $0.08 per mile is still 112,000 miles to...

Yep, pass anything but a Shell! . But my 7.3 only got 13-14, empty or towing. The Burb does ten empty and 7 towing. . So worst case, towing, 100 miles is 7 gallons of diesel, 14 gallons of gas. But diesel is still 50% higher. At $2.25, that's $16 for diesel. $21 for gas at $1.50. . It'd take...

Nope, no way, not me. I had a 7.3 F250, and my 8.1 Burb will flat walk away from it. All the torque, double the horsepower, 1000lbs lighter, for half the price.

:drool:

That's like comparing a single-cab chevy w a cap to a suburban.

I've seen lots of guys upgrade to the 97+ header, but I've never even heard of retrofitting the steel tailgate. In fact, I would have said it couldn't be done. Guess you see something new every day!

I'm eager to see what they do. I really hope it's not just a JKU with the back doors welded shut.

That sounds good, but in practice a hidden winch makes it very hard to spool the cable neatly. Kinked cable from birdnesting is a lot more dangerous than rain on your winch. (Which will, of course, still get wet and salty inside the bumper...)

There are way too many variable to give you a 100% answer, but generally a used rv will be cheaper than comparably outfitting one yourself. . But, the ambo will be 10x tougher, and doing it yourself lets you build it exactly how you want.