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Where can I get one of those door windows?

Would it work, though?

1. Remove rear inner tires/rims 2. Reinstall rear outer tires/rims only 3. Add appropriate spacer to front so it lines up with the rears Your mother's brother is named Robert.

What's the difference in track width compared to the front if you just remove the 2 inner rear rims/tires? I'm in the states, and will only be carrying a ton, maybe ton and a half in weight.

My 2001 has a 4 speed auto trans, the serial number is OF0391.

You could do like the oldtimers did and remove your inner rims/tires, and run just your outer tires. They won't line up with the fronts, (close), but no rocks to worry about between the duals.

Before you start nodding, build/install your habitat and see how it rides. These trucks have a sweet spot as far as load weight is concerned. In other words, a stock truck will ride like a tank with a light load, but the ride gets better with weight. Overloaded, they ride like a tank as well...

Torsion might be the best way to go? -less up/down travel -zero possibly of spring sideways flex -more adaptable ...but also... -more expensive.

Exactly. By using shocks and limiting straps, I'm hoping to mitigate the possible 'live load' scenario, and mimic the amount of load 'travel' offered by the standard 3-point hitch springs. For a LOT less work, weight, and most importantly to me personally...money. Looked at a camper yesterday...

Added 3 blue angle-plates fore and aft to spread the weight of the 2500lbs camper over a larger area. Obviously, these will be bolted on if I can find enough stock holes in the frame, not welded. If there's not enough holes, I'll explore U-bolts. All padded with urethane sheet or sections of...

Isn't that what a 3-point subframe is? Like the Aussie water tanker trucks, and GXV mogs? Now I'm really confused... *edit Ding-ding-ding! Now I get it, AussieIron! 3 points is ok, as long as the points spread the weight over a larger area! Ok, I see your point! "I see", said the blind...

Could be. I *thought I read there were 2 sizes, been wrong before!

Pictures would be great, thanks. That's the nature of discussion, and I'm making changes as I get everyone's input, which is appreciated. Also watching a lot of videos on YouTube of these trucks/boxes in the outback. They really do flip around a lot!

Tent's perfect brand new, and I *think they made a 6' and an 8'.

I'll be listing it for sale here once I figure out what it's worth. I have: 1 8' lid, black 1 gray tent 4 hinge pieces, (2 for lid, 2 for base) 2 Large greasable door hinges I do NOT have the torsion bar that goes between the 4 hinge levers. That's why I bought the large, greasable door...

Yes, both shocks AND limiting straps are planned. And correct me if I'm wrong, but the sprung subframe that is so popular here for adding a composite 'house' to the back of a fuso has the same potential for the 'slinky effect'? I'm simply suggesting using the trailer frame AS the subframe, and...

Very good advice, thanks. That's my fall-back position. After all, nothing is permanent, right? I'll have a choice to go above or below the axle with the trailer springs. Most of the campers I've looked at had very little suspension travel, only a few inches at most. And the shocks I'll be...

Following. What kind of payload weights are we talking about with the tankers? Or with a full custom made steel subframe/composite box?

We'll see how it goes with the shocks and limiting straps. I can always change it.

The trailer won't know it's not on it's tires, encountering the exact same side-to-side forces it handles when it goes down a trail. It will act just like it always does, tipping to match the terrain. And as I said above, I'll be adding shocks to the trailer axle, as well as the hitch ball area...