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jeep gladiator

I'm looking for recommendations for a single (NOT dual) jerry can holder for my rear bumper. Must be compatible with the proper scepter cans Must have a way to keep locked, ideally something that will have the least amount of rattling on the trail...

Anyone have any issues with the heat conducting via the brass fitting for propane inlet and causing issues with flexible tubing? My flexible tubing basically came apart at the fitting -- seems like the rubber inside melted and the compression fitting came apart. i had one hose that the regulator...

link to your build thread?

To be clear when I say interior I mean in the bed of my truck under my camper shell, not inside the passenger compartment

My previously build was a 3rd Gen Tacoma which looked like an expedition rig with tons of storage for tools/etc on the roof and axes/shovels hanging off the side. My current build is much more subdued, currently utilizing no exterior storage on purpose: https://www.instagram.com/jtrdiesel/ I'm...

update: sold

VIDEO: Pix: https://postimg.cc/gallery/qqFnm51 Custom built heavy duty 60% rear seat delete with fridge slide 32" of full extension. The fridge slide platform is 33 1/4" x 16 1/2". I strategically built in narrower so a wider fridge can fit centered on it with some overhang vs most fridge...

Background: 2016 Tacoma 3.5L Have a dual battery kit connected via Blue Sea ACR (Off grid engineering kit), utilizing two Odyssey Group 35-PC1400 AGM batteries, and I have a third battery in the bed of the truck wired in parallel to the aux battery which is a 100aH Gel Deep Cycle battery (...

ive already ordered a new cable which I plan to use as a spare in case something happened to the initial one so stripping the wire wouldn't be the worst thing. finding 26 AWG might be challenging -- i suppose if i tried that route wouldn't that small caliber wire cause increased resistance and...

appreciate it. while measuring voltage at the fridge end would it be sufficient to strip the wires right before the connector to the actual fridge? I feel as though it would be nearly impossible without potentially seriously damaging the fridge terminals to jam the prongs from the voltmeter in...

my fill hose is the ribbed version like this: is that the kindthat you went with? with the ribbing on it it didn't seem forgiving enough to fit around a 1.5" opening...

no, the vent line is only 3/8" ID and goes much higher than the tank (to the top of my shell), haven't had any wet spots by where it'ts attached to the shell thus why I believe it's coming from the fill cap

So I contacted Dometic Customer Support and their engineers are saying that they are seeing voltage drops of 0.2-0.8v routinely. That seems pretty substantial to me. What are you guys seeing for voltage drop on these fridges?

the dometic 12v plug unscrews so i am using the 2 pin threaded connector. i wouldn't exactly consider the draw from the fridge to be "high amp" though. it's tinned copper wire, ancor brand -- stuff isn't cheap either.

i did. Did t see any that fit that size as a barb connection. Am I missing something?

I have a 12 gallon valterra tank built into the storage system of my truck, it is filled via a gravity 1 1/4" standard fill tubing. I have the following fill hatch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0735LHQBD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Unfortunately, I was not able to...

my concern is the insulation, as that would require stripping insulation. battery is new with clean terminals. all connetions crimped properly with heat shrink

I understand how that works in theory, the challenge is that would involve stripping wires to get the voltmeter before and after a connection ie. this fridge is plugged into an ARB 12V outlet

Full Disclaimer: 12v electric is not my area of expertise. I am able to measure the voltage at the fridge via the wifi app (I'm assuming this is accurate). Condition 1) When the fridge is off, but power is on to the plug the voltage at distribution block and at the end of the Dometic plug is...