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If you are using headlamps that are designed from the start as LED lighting then there should be no issues with blinding oncoming drivers - if there was then the headlamps should be returned for their poor quality. There is a whole world of difference between using purpose-built LED lamps and...

I would check to see if the ignition transistor unit is getting power when it's supposed to. IIRC it's supposed to see 12V at one of it's terminals, and if that's not there for some reason it'll give you a place to start searching. You do have the wiring diagrams for the ignition system, right?

Crankshaft front seal is most likely the cause of your leak. You'll want to replace it along with the camshaft front seals when you do the timing belt service. You'll also want to make sure you've got the updated crankshaft pulley bolt - the original design has a possibility of breaking off and...

Have you verified that there is actually engine damage before you make plans to replace it? It's entirely possible that the butterfly screws passed through the combustion chamber doing little or no damage, and are now stuck at the entrance to the catalytic converter.

The only downside to the Aussie Locker is that anytime you're in 4WD or AWD and applying power, the front diff is locked. This means it becomes difficult to turn on anything other than a very slippery surface, and essentially eliminates the ability to use AWD on a hard surface. It's a nice step...

I've used CataClean once with good results - it's far cheaper than replacing the cats so it's probably worth trying first. If you do end up replacing them keep in mind that there are 49 state legal and 50 state legal cats. There are tons of cheap Chinese 49-state cats available but my experience...

No matter how well it's been taken care of it will still be a 30 year old vehicle, and things are going to break. The best thing you can do is to plan ahead with your maintenance and replace everything that wears - example: do the timing belt/water pump service and replace every single hose in...

FWIW, I don't think you're likely to be able to complete any engine swap for less than $2k. It may seem like it on paper, but all the little unplanned-for things add up quickly: hoses, gaskets, seals, timing components, fluids, mounts, etc.

Have you pulled the heads and confirmed that they are cracked? The Mitsu V6s aren't typically known for that - it's far more common to blow the head gaskets if they are overheated, and replacing the head gaskets would be a fairly inexpensive repair compared to replacing the heads.

Go to any of the Mitsubishi parts sites and look up the crank bolt - it will be the updated part.

You can easily extend the change interval with synthetic oil - I typical go 6-7K miles with mine. Synthetic oil will increase your fuel mileage slightly as well as being more resistant to breaking down from heat.

Your sputter is not being caused by the cam timing being a fraction of a tooth off, you've got another issue somewhere. Over the course of it's service life the timing belt will stretch slightly, and it will end up being off by at least that much before it is changed. If being off by that small...

The bolt coming loose is not a problem with the bolt itself, it's a problem with the last person to service the timing belt and their failing to torque it properly (it's not a problem specific to Mitsu V6s, there are plenty of other engine with timing belts that have similar issues). The...

I haven't messed with that part myself but Toasty commented above that you should be able to just tap it back into place with a few dabs of RTV to keep it there, so it must be a friction fit of some sort. I guessing that Toasty has as much or more experience with Montero drivetrain parts than...

There shouldn't be any reason to take the engine apart. The bottom end of the Mitsu V6 is extremely stout and the problems associated with the front end of it are about 1/2 improperly done timing belt services and 1/2 crankshaft bolts breaking because they haven't been updated to the newer style...

I would think that the 3.5 DOHC manifolds would be different as the heads are physically wider than the SOHC heads, which means the manifold would have to have a different angle to meet the Y-pipe. Then again, maybe just the Y-pipe is different...

If you are trying to remove the crankshaft bolt, you can use a socket on a long-handle ratchet and rest the ratchet on the driver's side frame rail, then bump the starter (only turn the ignition key to the start position for a fraction of a second). The starter has enough torque to break it loose.

Really, if your cooling system is properly maintained and functioning as it was designed, there should be no need for hood vents or extra fans unless you're doing slow rock-crawling in high temperatures.

This ^^^. Look at how hood vents are designed and where they are located on factory vehicles, the ones where manufacturers spend millions of dollars on research and design. They are always towards the front of the hood, usually right behind the radiator so they function as a means of extracting...

I'm unclear on exactly what happened that would allow the timing belt to jump teeth. The sheared pin you're showing only aligns the harmonic balancer with the crankshaft sprocket and the trigger wheel for the crankshaft sensor. All three of those are keyed to the crankshaft and the sprocket...