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Fill it with water the cut it.

Took me two years to find a shop with an old man that knew exactly what he was doing. My van drives great now. Those chain tire places don't know they're ass from a hole in the ground if they can't punch it in the computer.

Welcome to Texas

I think I've answered my own question as it came to me that the rear shaft needs to expand and contract along its length. My current shaft does not slip... It would be going to flanged ends so it would need a slip somewhere in its length...

I'm finally at the point where I need driveshafts for my conversion. I'm going to a NP271 case. What flange yoke do I need connect the driveshaft to the transfer case? Do I just need to get my stock rear shaft shortened? I see on the u-joint website it says that I'll need a whole new shaft, is...

Converted my van to 4wd. No longer need the stabilizer. All parts are used. You can replace the strut (boot is ripped) if you like but it still functions fine. Maybe 20k on it. Works great on 2wd! Bolts right on. $100 plus shipping

Just a follow up to this post in case anyone has the same issue. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1548655-2002-7-3l-4r100-transmission-9-check-balls-******.html#post18100891

I'm in the process of overhauling a used 4r100 for my 4wd conversion. The ATSG manual says I should have 8 check balls under the the valve body gasket. I have found 9 check balls as shown below. The extra ball is the furthest to the right in the pictures below. I think the ball of interest...

I use autodesk inventor. Learned it in 2002 while at school. You can get a private use license from austodesk for free. So far I've been able to remember most everything over the years.

I saw your reference to south Texas dust in the first couple posts and jumped the gun. I'm in three rivers and am doing a ujoint leaf conversion. I've got the simple stuff done but I need to get the transmission and front gearing done. There's no one in the middle of nowhere to do any sort of...

Where in south Texas are you?

Where in south Texas are you?

I have the whynter 65 from Amazon. Been working great for 3 years now. Got for under 500

I bought a 4x4 4r100 and I'm in the same boat. The fluid in this pulled transmission is bright red but I have no history of it so I'm not sure how it'll work. The shops here are quoting 1700 for the rebuild. Pretty sizeable gamble to just put it in and see what happens vs paying the 1700 to have...

When installing my max fan I had the gf get up and sit on the top to cut the hole. She was alright but I've never attempted to get on top as I know it's probably a bad decision. You could probably add a vertical rib along the length of it to prevent flexing in the wind but you still wouldn't be...

Four bolts pulling perpendicular to the hole. I think you'd be alright. Interesting topic though. I think the frame is maybe 0.25in thick? maybe 3/16?

Could you not just drill holes in the frame and thread them?

I can see your logic but the top never actually touches the roll cage. There is about ~ an inch of space between the steel and the fiberglass across all the rollcage ribs. It's definitely not secured at all to the rollcage.

I used a piece of angle steel to mount my viair compressor and tank. Then mounted the angle to the driver's side rail. Low cost Easy project.

Royal pain in the ass but I've done it three times now with the O'Reilly loan a tool clutch tool