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The best is the first start, when it actually starts up. Little too much anxiety for me.

I threw away my 3rd row seats 8 years ago, now I need some. Talk about regrets. I used to browse the salvage sites waiting, but I gave up…….

I would have figured out how to check the fuel pressure before doing anything else.

You must be driving it……

UPDATE: while trying to flush the front circuits I broke off the bleeder screw for the front right. When I took off the caliper for replacement this is what it looked like. It was not leaking. Both pistons looked this way, and this is what it looked like after I slid it off the rotor with brake...

So the seals inside must go bad eventually…..I mean mine is 24 years old. They have that lever with the spring attached to the body, that moves a piston / plunger inside the valve body, it must have similar characteristics to a master cylinder. Eventually it will fail when the seals inside fail...

In front of rear axle.

Anyone have a good source for a new proportioning valve? I see some on eBay but I’d rather source from a reliable certified retailer.

My hoses are all in spec on the maintenance replacement calendar (less than 10yrs old). Yes as hoses age they become softer and some of your brake pressure potential is lost due to the hoses actually expanding a bit. But no way would that explain my behavior, as you said, your pedal wasn’t...

The weirdest part about my problem is that when I do the pump & hold test, the pedal doesn’t sink (on the second pump obviously). Im still going to bleed the front calipers too so I can rule out air completely and complete my fluid flush. If that doesn’t fix it, I’m replacing the master...

I know what a pedal feels like with air in it……that’s not what this is to me. The pedal literally requires two pumps to build pressure, first pump goes to the floor, and I mean to the floor against the hard stop. The second pump then acts 100% normal braking. There is no way that I got air in...

No fluid leaks at all, anywhere. And prior to symptoms getting really bad, no recent brake service either for over a year.

The pedal is so bad I can’t see how flushing the fronts will fix it……no way has that much air just gotten in there without a fluid leak showing up somewhere. I’m on the original factory master cylinder, for a 1998, so it’s due to be replaced anyway.

new pads and calipers + bleeding rear lines and produced zero change in behavior. Unfortunately looks like my next target will be the master cylinder.

Your driveway looks like a section of a rally stage……I’ll bet you could hit 55 from just the piece I can see! Ha

Well so far rear pads were both at less than 50% but that shouldn’t create a double pump situation. I decided to just go ahead and replace both rear calipers since they’re nearly 6 years old, so I won’t be able to test only flushing the brake fluid by itself.

Now that you describe this I think there is a spec / evaluation procedure for this in the FSM. Thank you, I will refer to it.

Where do I observe / measure this?

I should have said that, I’ll flush…….on that topic, I’d love any recommendations on a tool to assist…… I hate the pump and and bleed process. I think you need a pretty good little vacuum pump to pull the fluid through right? I tried using the hand vac once but it didn’t work

I will bleed system and report back.