As I sit here scanning old negatives into digital ...
We are in the early days of electrical vehicles, but the change is underway. Remember when?
-- Sailing ships crossed the ocean because steam ships lacked the range?
-- Ships burned coal because oil wasn't available?
-- Horses pulled wagons...
While we are all washing up ...
Beloved Spouse and I, and the cat, go through about 10 USG of fresh water a day, at full "motorhome" consumption. That is, two showers, drinking, meal prep and washing, and way too much coffee.
On any kind of water rationing, e.g. bathing every other day, you...
Anecdotes are worth what you pay for them, but I had a Nova Kool on my Tiger - worked perfectly for years.
Two door Norcold on my XP - repaired multiple times, replaced, failed again.
Now have a two door Nova Kool - working perfectly for a year or so.
Caveat emptor, YMMV, etc.
-- Keep weight forward,
-- Water inside to avoid freezing,
-- Over 50 USG there may be advantages to separate tanks or internal baffles,
-- A six inch cleanout opening is nice,
-- Put the drain valve inside the heated camper. (Don't ask how I learned about this.)
-- Add a gross...
At 90 MPH.
When under charge, the batteries just have to be grossly of the same type, e.g. lead acid or lithium. (Assuming that the charge profile is correct.)
When combined in the same bank, the batteries should be identical. Better if from the same production run, etc.
If separated when...
Owning Lifeline AGMs and having tested lithium iron batteries, I would disagree with this, strongly.
Lifelines may charge faster than flooded lead acid, but they are very slow compared to lithium.
YMMV. (But, as noted, I doubt it. ;) )
Can't say, but it would appear to me that the issue is where you sense, not the B2B. It just wants to see more than 0v. So if you tap at some point that comes live when the key is "on" it will react. Tap at a point that is only live when the engine is actually running and only then will the B2B...
Yes, you can have any number of chargers on the same bank. I have three, the alternator though a REDARC, a solar controller, and shore power. Lead acid batteries do not have BMS. Each controller measures the battery voltage and tries to meet its own criteria. Each will come on or shut off...
Consider using ferrules. One of the RV solar gurus swears by 'em. Might make it easier to jam in a bigger wire and should make for a more mechanically sound join.
Example: Amazon.com : wire ferrule kit
You are opening a can of worms here ... ;)
But I'll play.
-- Winter is a challenge due to cold and lack of sun. A week of clouds can be a killer. While I use an induction cooktop, for extended cold weather use a diesel stove (you can run from a dedicated kerosene tank) may be a better option...
Amps are important, but mostly as a measure of the performance of the system. The question was whether the Blue Sea ACR was working properly at all. It appears, from what can be gleaned from web posts, that it is.
Beyond that, if you have an ammeter, then the actual amp flows would be most...
Depending on your alternator, count about one to two hours per 100Ah of camper battery, and then 30 minutes to one hour of absorb charge per 100Ah of battery.
You should, however, see the voltage begin to rise in one to two hours.
Actually, they are. The Blue Sea ACR is merely a voltage sensing relay, or solenoid. When it is closed, it acts like a wire connecting the two batteries.
Now, take two batteries, one charged, one discharged and connect them in parallel. The voltage across the circuit will be somewhere between...
For some reason, this did not post. Dave's comment above is even more complete.
Assuming this wiring: ML-ACRs.jpg (1479×1267) (bluesea.com)
When the relay is closed, the voltage will be the same on both sides. If your camper...