Kind of a odd approach most likely and maybe wouldn’t work for your heavy application but I was finding a bunch of new take off Raptor shocks on eBay at one point (2017 and 18, after that they have some electronics involved). You could revalve them and have yourself a massive 3” Fox for cheaper...
You could think about hanging those lightweight bikes off the back and having water, fuel, cooler, etc up front. Plan other heavy storage to the front or over the axle.
Also, you can buy a tongue scale from etrailer (or various methods with a bathroom scale).
Most, if not all, 7k axles will be 8 bolt, 8x6.5.
I replaced my surge brakes with electric over hydraulic disc brakes. The higher pressure actuator is for discs, lower for drums. It’s a pretty easy conversion especially if you retain the drums.
Most bumpers will give you more clearance than stock. I’ve had a Fusion (I think they make one for your year) and currently Kelderman bumper on my 2015 2500. Both with a Warn Zeon 12s platinum winch. It likely reduces airflow but I’ve never had tranny temp issues.
I have kryptonite tie rods...
I went from toyo rt (35x13.5) to the Ridge Grappler (37x12.5) and would do it again. Better in dirt and snow and shockingly quiet on the road.
The Falkens will probably be the best in snow on your list at least hard pack and ice. Deep stuff STT pro. Ridge grappler best middle ground imo...
I have 37/12.5/20s. Awesome tire. Very quiet, significantly quieter than the Toyo MTs I had before and they we not bad. They grip well in snow and mud. Have about 10k and still look new. Should get 50k at least.
2015.5 GMC duramax
4.5” BDS, Deavers, airbags, Fox, 37” Nitto Ridge Grapplers...
I am driving a 2015 GMC 2500. I put about 40k miles on 35” Toyo RTs. They were pretty quiet but a little hum at freeway speeds. I decided to try to Nitto Ridge Grapplers when I moved to 37”. They are amazingly quiet despite being more aggressive than the RT.
2015.5 GMC duramax
I took the pintle off my LTT flat deck and put on a McHitch. It was the only thing heavy duty enough for my use. I went with the 6 metric ton rated (original not automatic) which is excessive but I'm good with that. I've only put a few thousand miles on it so I can't give a long term review but...
I've been looking as well. If I was going about 35" I probably would have gone with Falken Wildpeak at3w. If you haven't, take a look at those. I am moving up to 37" so ordered some Nitto Ridge Grapplers which seem highly rated all around. I realize they won't compare to a true snow tire.
I think I just typed in "rv fresh tank" and scrolled through. I think you'd quickly find something that works. I used pex. After going through the pump it splits twice with one line to a sink inside, one to an outside spigot by the fold down table and one to a propane shower.
Photobucket seems to want me to subscribe in order to post now and the site turns attachments on their side.
Wired in the rear upper LEDs. Rather than splice them in, I ran a separate circuit. I still need to add my kryptec to the rear.
Filled in the pattern on this side.
Drums will be fine for sure. I would have done the same if it wasn't for needing a decision on the actuator. I didn't want to buy two if I changed my mind down the road. When they rate these trailers, they are definitely planning for abuse and go low.
Disc brakes are up and running. They work awesome. This particular actuator works with my factory controller but not all will. The parts below are what is needed for a disc conversion for a Schutt trailer.
K2HR712E Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - E-Coat - 7,000 lbs...
For anyone needing parts, the inner bearing is #25580 and outer is #14125A. Etrailer has a few disc options available. So far it seems like the axle is built with 7000lb parts which bodes well for the load.