The Heart of the West Loop

[WU7X]

In early September, soon after the holiday and the beginning of school, a small group of us met in Rawlins, WY, to drive the Heart of the West (HOTW) loop. This loop in its entirety is over 2,800 miles long. The brain child of Tony Heugel, it courses through portions of Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, and Nevada. Our band of adventurers spent about 10 days together and covered approximately half of the loop. We purchased the tracks from Tony, downloaded them into our GPS systems, grabbed copies of the appropriate DeLorme and Benchmark state maps, and proceeded to have a wonderful time together. One of the neat things about this loop is that there are numerous locations where you start from. We chose Rawlins because it was somewhat equidistant from our homes.

The group of travelers consisted of David and Terri, who spend most of their days working between Ohio and Michigan, Alan (Ace) Brown, our Colorado homeboy, and Dale and Kent from eastern Washington. We had all traveled together overlanding on other ROF adventures in the west. Each of us had experience and training that combined well with the others. Most importantly we "played well" together.

As pointed out earlier, the tracks we primarily followed were put together by Tony Heugel. He has done this type of work for decades and derives his income from marketing them. We were asked not to share the specific tracks with others for that reason and we will honor his request. As a bit of background Tony initially put together similar routes in a series of state by state books. I first knew of him that way when I bought several of his "Byway' books almost 20 years ago. The HOTW loop was initially focused on the ADV Rider set. These motorcyclists are the two-wheeled equivalent of those of us who enjoy the exploring the backcountry via four wheel drive. The loop interconnects with many of the Backcountry Discovery Routes, so one can spend months traveling them. If you haven't heard of any of this before you should really check it out.

This thread will be picture heavy and track specifics poor. I hope you enjoy it. If it makes you curious about actually traveling the HOTW yourself, please Google Tony and the HOTW.

 

[WU7X]

The HOTW landscape is absolutely incredible! It covers desert, sage-steppe, rolling hills, and high mountains. After my Oregon Backcountry Discovery Route fiasco in June, I'm a bit adverse to deserts at the moment. So the parts of this loop I especially wanted to pass through were the mountains. Tony recommends mid- to late September as the best time to visit this part of the country. From what we witnessed I'd say he is right on with that suggestion.

Our tracks were all on roads and trails that I feel anyone with a high clearance 2WD vehicle could navigate. But the caveat is that one should never do this alone. We experienced all kinds of weather in the short time we where there, weather that could change very rapidly. In general though, the time spent on gravel and two track makes up a better portion of the trip.

We met up in Rawlins at around noon. Serandipitously, we all drove into town within an hour of each other. David and Terri had caravanned in from the east in a 3/4 ton GMC 4WD pickup pulling a Conqueror 390 series trailer. Alan drove up from northwest Colorado. Kent and I came in through Montana, Idaho and Wyoming for the gathering of the clan. So five people and three vehicles. Ace and I both drive Toyota 4Runners.

After a quick stop at a local grocery store we headed south and almost instantly found ourselves on a gravel road. So began the journey! This park of Wyoming is rolling sage covered hills. Kent, my prized navigator, quickly started pointing out natural landmarks as we made our way toward Colorado. The pace was leisurely. It would stay so throughout our trip together. In our next 10 days together we would only cover about 1,400 miles, mostly on Tony's tracks. Our days of racing through the countryside have given way to slowing down and really wrapping ourselves into the environment we were passing through.

As the elevation rose sage was replaced by conifers and aspens. The aspens were starting their autumn evolution from green to red and gold. Kent noted that we had crossed the Continental Divide. As the trip progressed we would be doing this over and over again. Fantastic!

 

[WU7X]

Our first night or two was spent at a Forest Service campground near Encampment, WY. As we were to discover during the remainder of our sojourn most campgrounds were pretty much deserted. Several FS campsites we had planned on staying at were locked in fact. But we never had any problems finding wonderful campsites off the road. At any rate, at campsite one the only other camper in the whole site was a forlorn trailer left there by a hunter. It was hunting season and this would soon become a familiar sight along our tracks.

We were in high country in September. It gets COLD at night! Be prepared. It can also go from a sun filled sky one day to rain drenched the next. We spread out and set up camp. The routine was the same as in the past, the riders in each vehicle would prepare their own meals. Kent and I don't really favor freeze dried gunk, so we would prepare a nice hot dinner. After eating we would gather around a wood campfire or propane fire pit and chat until the stars were out and the temperature got too cold.

David and Terri's home away from home.



The Aspens were incredible!​

 

[WU7X]

Rain. Did I mention be prepared for rain? We had a couple really wet nights during the trip. We also had clear nights that got so frigid that I would wake up in the morning with the inside of my camp cot and the top of my sleeping bag covered in frost. I should probably mention something about our sleeping arrangements. David and Terri had a queen sized bed in their Conqueror. Alan and I both were using camp cots. Kent had his trusty REI dome tent. Alan had suggested the camp cot to me prior to the trip. So I picked one up to give it a try. In general I was very impressed with it. It's pros are: sleep off the ground, no bars or rocks, etc., sticking into one's back at night, a rain cover that really works. Cons: somewhat hard to get in and out of, especially for an old fart at night, on really cold night the rain fly would cause condensation to freeze. It also packs up into this huge square shape that I had to carry on my roof rack.

I almost forgot. One night Alan tried out a hammock. Not bad for sleeping, according to him, but a PITA to get out of in the middle of the night.

David & Terri's Conqueror 390. Unparalleled luxury for overlanding.
​

My Kamp Kot
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Ace's hammock​

 

[WU7X]

To honor our agreement with Tony, I will be generalizing a lot more from now on. We continued on our way, slowing meandering west and south through Colorado. It was amazing to travel like this, one moment up in the aspens. The next in dry land country. Tony has marked out lots of camping sites along his tracks. Occasionally they would be filled with hunting camps. But not to worry. There were always lots of opportunities to locate spectacular primitive campsites just off the track and on FS or BLM lands. One other thing; we heard elk bugling from sunset to early morning every day we were actually on public lands. David is an avid elk hunter and he and Terri would scope out the countryside once we were in camp, often locating a bull and cows near clearings or hiding in the junipers. Again, just fabulous to have the opportunity to enjoy all this!

In dry weather all the roads we used were easily driven over. But in wet weather they could be mud bogs. Bring recovery gear, especially a long handled shovel.

 

[WU7X]

There are a lot of superior spots to visit either on track or nearby. Kent and I went through the Grand Tetons on our way to Rawlins. The scenery around there is also fantastic. I love this part of Wyoming. But even in September the tourist invasion was in full force. We stopped in a small town east of the park and ate elk burgers for lunch. Mouth watering.

 

[WU7X]

One of the communities we stopped at for food and gas was Meeker, CO. A neat little community where we located a small take-out food shop where we could sit at tables out back. The food was really good and of course the company exceptional.

 

[WU7X]

We wove our way up towards Vernal, UT and found a hidden gem of a campsite on BLM land. The next morning, Ace had to leave us there because he had some family commitments back home. Before the sendoff Ace shared a final breakfast with Kent and me. We all like Alan and it was hard to see him leave. Down now to two vehicles and four people. Still a most excellent number for traveling the back country.

 

[WU7X]

The campsites I'm mentioning are not in chronological order. Probably more because of my fading grey cells than anything else. One night in the Colorado high country was exceptionally cold. That was the time I found myself encased in ice crystals inside my camp cot. I had honestly slept very comfortably. But I was dressed in almost every layer I had available. Heavy socks, blue jeans, a polargard outer pant, long sleeved teeshirt, hoody, a Patagonia sweater, stocking cap. I had slipped my 25 degree down bag into a fleece liner. In the morning I looked and felt like the Stay Puff man.

 

[WU7X]

The aforementioned campsite was near a reservoir and USFS campsite. The campsite was locked down for the year, so we went hunting for a nearby off-track site to use. The one we found would have brought smiles to anyone who loves camping. The night sky had been exceptional; filled with a galaxy of stars. The morning was honestly frigid. But the view toward the sunrise was memorable. A small stream (dreaming of trout fishing here) glistened in the sunlight. The valley it ran through was transfixing. Hope you can find it.

 

[WU7X]

Alan told us that he had read that aspens typically are found around the 8,000' level. I believe him. Everywhere we went we found them at that elevation. Above that we got back into conifers.

 

[WU7X]

We had the opportunity to visit a number of national parks and monuments along the way. Two were skipped because everyone had already had been through them. These were Dinosaur National Monument and Flaming Gorge. If you haven't been to them take the time to check them out. They are well worth the effort.

One of our favorite camping locations was a primitive site west of Flaming Gorge. It was well off our main track, surrounded by mountains, and had a small brook running through it. It was exceptional to us, but by no means exceptional to all the many others sites one could find in this part of Utah.

 

[WU7X]

 

[WU7X]

By this time the cold and dampness were seeping into my old bones. Terri was also yearning for a bit of civilization. So I made the executive decision to head north toward Idaho Falls and spend a night or two in a good motel, with food prepared for us at some nice night spot. Snow was starting to pile up in the mountains just above our elevation. The journey was coming to an end.

In Idaho Falls we gave Tony Huegel a call. He was delighted to come down and have dinner with us. He picked out a restaurant with excellent service and a wonderful staff. We spent several hours with him sharing stories and insights about the trip. The following morning snow decending quicking down in elevation kept us from finishing the final loop of the trek, so we highwayed it up towards Leadore, ID via asphalt. Again going slightly off-track we visited the charcoal kilns that snuggle against the mountains just south of Leadore. There was one final place we wanted to visit; the old mining ghost town of Bannack, MT. The day was once again warm and sunny. So about two thirds of the way up the road to Bannack Pass, we detoured onto a final two track and up into a small park amid the peaks for a PB&J luncheon. Then back on the road to Bannack. I think we spent at least two hours walking through that well preserved community before driving for rest and our last night together in Dillon, MT. The next morning Kent and I headed back toward Spokane while David and Terri were left to plan their final adventures before turning once more east and to the midwest.

This was really a wonderful trip! The scenery is exceptional and our fellowship most enjoyable. If at all possible take the time to engage in this activity. It can be life changing. My only suggestion is to travel with companions you know and truly trust in any type of situation. Take your time, you probably will never be back this way again.

Thanks to my ROF friends for joining me on this adventure.

Dale

 

[Ace Brown]

This is a copy of my report published in the Retired Ol’ Farts group in Facebook. It’s a bit dated now though as I’m “not sore three days later” as it’s now nearly two months later. But I always seem to have other reasons to be sore. Expedition
Portal and/or Tapatalk have made it too hard to publish my photos here so I just don’t. Besides mine would be pretty much be duplicates of what Dale has already posted. One correction to Dale’s narrative. The tents that we both used are Kamprite Tentcots. I have tried several models over the years and find them very handy for a quick setup. The last night I did sleep in a hammock. Won’t try that again.

“Just finished eight days “overlanding” through small parts of Wyoming, Colorado and Utah. It was not a ROF trip but certainly worth reporting on here. We started south of Rawlins and I finished near Vernal, while others continued on. I hadn’t planned to do more than five days but stayed on a few more. The first night and next day we had some thunderstorms but the remainder of the trip was dry. One cold morning saw 27* with heavy frost. Hunting season was on so most boondock camp sites were occupied. But we always found a spot. The last night I slept in my hammock and I’m still sore three days later.”

Thanks to Dale for a lengthy report and great photos here.


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