Ford Transit chassis cab DIY composite camper

[The Artisan]

Steel frame will still sweat though, it's not the door that is the issue, it's the frame. In 15 degree weather it's condensed enough to have a solid coat of ice on it.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I am not sure what they were going to do, I was going to polyurea coat it if I had kept it. They are heading to top of Alaska next year
Kevin

 

[java]

I am not sure what they were going to do, I was going to polyurea coat mine. They are heading to top of Alaska next year
Kevin

I have seen the coatings, just couldn't decide if it was fish oil, and the ones I found were stupid expensive. Keep us posted on what you use!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[The Artisan]

I have seen the coatings, just couldn't decide if it was fish oil, and the ones I found were stupid expensive. Keep us posted on what you use!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I have this setup
Kevin

 

[chris_the_wrench]

After driving for the past 2.5 years a Ford Transit conversion and loving every minutes of it, i decided to take the plunge and take on the challenge to build a even bigger van for me, the wife and the 3 kids and the dog! We need more room! (kids age 4,5,7)

View attachment 640110




Chassis
2019 Ford Transit cab/chassi 178 wheelbase, dually, with 6000lbs payload!
3.7 v6 engine and a very basic trim. it was used with only 44km on it. So used but brand new and very cheap!

View attachment 640111

View attachment 640113

The goal is to build a motorhome at will allow for very light offroad, mostly forestry road/gravel roads. 4 seasons. I m alone building this so i dont have any help and i want to build this with normal material i can get locally and stay within my range of skills (basics).

I m very much following the same receipt as ryan and courtney did for there truck camper :
I also need to have this useable for the summer! it dosnt have to be finished but useable as a primitive motorhome as my little kids love camping!!!!

The van will get the simple 2'' lift and oversize tires and small upgrade of the suspension components but that is about it. Minimal work all to be done by me.

View attachment 640118

Cabine: 16ft X 81'' X 83'' wide (expected weight of 1000-1200bs) lets see how much higher i end up!
Walls, Composite 4x8 panels 0.04 aluminum, 1.5 XPS foam, 1/4 Meranti plywood.
exobody frame of the cabine made of 3x3 0.125 aluminum angle welding together by me.
Subframe 2x1.5 0.125 aluminum tubing

the other goal is to keep this within a small budget so i will make a big effort to keep track of everything and see if i can stay close to the goal i fix. This mean a lot of decision will be taken base on price. Alibaba motorhome....
Chassis cab 26k CDN
Cabin with door and windows 8000$ CDN
Interior finish and truck mods 12000$ CDN
total 46 000$ CDN

Today was getting material,

View attachment 640119

used door 250$
insulation 893$
plywood 280$
aluminum order pending 1853$

The next month will have very little update, it s gonna be the very long process of building about 16 composite panels one by one using PL premium glue and lots of pavestone weight on. But as the weather isnt great and all my build happen outside... this will give me a full month to get the panel done before i move outside to start working on the chassis and exobody. it s go time!

I understand other projects taking priority! Great looking new garage/shop space. Im drawing a similar sized habitat cabin(16’) and still have not decided on chassis. Do you have any sketches of the layout your thinking about? Any idea of How much rear overhang is a 16’ box going to have on that chassis?


Thanks
Chris


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jonnyo]

the frame on the 178 is almost identical in dimension to the sprinter 170 but move the rear wheel another 8'' back. So it mean for me, the overhang or at least, the structure will finish just a hair under 6ft behind the rear axle (5'10). For comparaision visually, the sprinter 170 extended is a hair over 6'2ft



i didnt sketch anything as i never build with plans...i build as i go with idea in my head. The biggest challenge so far for me is the camper box will have seats for people traveling on the road with seatbelt. It also mean some kind of crash/rolling cage will be build inside the box to protect those in it. At least in canada, there is no standard in the industrie or rv for passenger. So i want to make it as best as i can as my kids will be traveling with me on every trip.

 

[Jonnyo]

a year behind....but life as been fun and there was too much going on. so my and my daughter got back at it today.

-our truck is now legal for the road after we build a temporary flatbed. with permanent registration and insurance, now it s time to work on the build..... i think it s gonna be a long long process!



van is getting lifted 5.5 inch high plus added height of the tires (32s)

 

[Jonnyo]

this was just a little test fit...me and my 8 year old girl carry the structure on put it on the truck so it s still very light at the moment. The truck as 6130lbs of payload so while i still want to keep everything light, i think we have plenty of play room with this one!

 

[Jonnyo]

One tip: Do NOT skimp on the door, especially since starting from scratch.

My .02

any advice from anyone on the right door for a project like this? it m trying to be smart...the nice composite door are very expensive...even more in canada vs usa! But yeah...better make the right decision the first time!

Tern overland/total composite have 2 options....
vs

any other option out there that would be good?

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

any advice from anyone on the right door for a project like this? it m trying to be smart...the nice composite door are very expensive...even more in canada vs usa! But yeah...better make the right decision the first time!

Tern overland/total composite have 2 options.... View attachment 718704
vs View attachment 718705

any other option out there that would be good?

I’ll re-iterate my comment about not skimping on the door!

Yes, the composite doors are expensive but even with the weird drawbacks, still worth every cent in my opinion!

I have the Tern Euro door and although I love it and STILL feel it’s the best bang for the buck, it has a few drawbacks.

-Its not designed for a 2” thick wall so the finish trim they provide doesn’t fit and I still get a LITTLE thermal transfer / condensation when it’s cold and I’m running the heater.

-the screen provided with the door is super cheesy quality so it’s sitting on the side of my house.

I have 2 friends with the Tern wildlands door and it’s integrated screen is top notch for sure.

But I personally hate the shape of the window, otherwise I would of went this route. Personal preference.

The wildlands door also has the same issue with the trim on a 2” wall.

I still believe these are 2 of the best options for the $

Problem is, if you skimp on a door now to save a few bucks, it would be an absolute nightmare to swap out / upgrade later

 

[ExpoMike]

Agree on the Wildlands door, very nice door but the window is just a bit weird but the quality of the door is top notch. I love the deadbolt function and the full screen door, which is bear proof (per Tern's claim) is nice. Way nicer door than the standard RV style that was on my FWC.

Recently installed on my project.

 

[DiploStrat]

I have the same door that is on the Earthroamer. Mine was warped and cannot be straightened. Looks OK, but there is a very small air leak. Get something else.

More to the point, get a door that is large enough for any appliance or fitting that you plan to install. E.G., refrigerator. Mine has to go through the skylight - worse, the skylight has to be removed. You haven't lived until you have dealt with a large refrigerator some 20 feet up in the air.

Get the right door, or plan a serious maintenance hatch. You have been warned!

 

[rruff]

van is getting lifted 5.5 inch high plus added height of the tires (32s)

How are you getting a 5.5" lift? Didn't know that was possible, unless you are doing a body lift?

1 year behind... is that all? I'm 4 years behind... ? ?

 

[Jonnyo]

How are you getting a 5.5" lift? Didn't know that was possible, unless you are doing a body lift?

1 year behind... is that all? I'm 4 years behind... ? ?

mine is a 2wd so you can actually put a aftermarket spindle that keep all the tie rod, lower control arm at normal stock angle but drop the hub part 3 inches giving you a real 3''lift. on top of that...you put the van compass topo 2'' with bilsein sock and you get around 5.5 in of lift up front. the rear will be a mix of new left spring kit and a rear block. i expect to be a 2000-2500lbs under the gvwr so a new softer leafspring pack might be a nice addition.

4 year behind....wait...i will catch up to you in 3 years

 

[calicamper]

If I had that garage. Wow the projects I could do?.

 

[Victorian]

As you know we install and sell both tern doors. Both are a very nice! BUT the wild lands door is not for cold climates. Period. You will get tons of condensation or even ice on the inside in the winter time. The euro door is much better.
in regards of warping doors: outbound had the same issue. It comes from the interior- outside temperature difference.
we had the same happen with our own in house designed composite door. There is no real solution to that other then making it heavier with steel inserts. We opted for a nice big handle on the inside to keep it in shape.
if you are interested: we have 2 more available…. Send me an email and I get you pricing.