2000 Montero Endeavor - Build Thread

chentwoten

New member
Its been awhile since I've updated this thread, but work definitely hasn't stopped.

Since last posting, have done the following:

Engine:
  • Full timing belt kit replacement with Aisin kit. Looked like service had been done not too long ago, but PO didn't set the tensioner correctly and it was a cheap Gates kit. Replaced cam and crank seals and position sensors while in there as well.
  • Also had to replace crank pulley and bolt since old balancer was wobbly and the crank had been bored out to some larger than OEM spec size which meant I couldn't use a new factory crank bolt. Ended up piecing two ARP bolt kits together to get the right washer and length bolt.
  • Upgraded radiator to the Leo aluminum unit and got all new coolant and heater hoses.
  • Upgraded oil cooler to a Setrab 25 row unit and running -8AN Earls lines and fittings to factory oil cooler block since original lines were leaking.
  • Replaced both exhaust manifolds since they both had cracks (one was previously welded and cracked again)
  • OEM gauges didn't really work (oil pressure wouldn't read and voltmeter was all over the place) , so I replaced them with a trio of Speedhut gauges. Utilized OE oil pressure sensor location and used available bung on radiator for coolant temp.
 

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chentwoten

New member
Also rebuilt the entire front suspension.
  • New OEM upper control arms (since I couldn't find anyone confident to press new bushings in)
  • Siberian LCA bushings, sway bar bushings
  • All new Moog/555 ball joints (upper/lower), tie rods, idler arm
  • Koni heavy track front and rear
  • Replaced wheel bearings with Timken units
  • Aisin manual locking hubs
  • New CV boots and grease
  • Ended up replacing one of the front calipers since a bleeder sheared off trying to loosen it when bleeding the brakes
 

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chentwoten

New member
Unfortunately the original leather seats were completely destroyed when I purchased the vehicle. I wound up finding a cloth interior in decent shape in a similar color at a junkyard and proceeded to swap it all out since I couldn't stand seat covers ant more.
  • Added cup holders to the doors because I was sick of not having anywhere to put my drink. Inspired by the land cruiser door panel armrest solution from down under, but obviously a lot less costly.
  • Some pictures of the gauge cluster wiring. Thankfully was able to retain the housing so it bolted into place like factory. Using a Deutsch DTM connector here.
  • Wired in TPMS display for external sensors, seems to work okay and allows rotating of spare without worrying about moving valve stems.
  • Added USB fast charge port (originally plug and play for Toyotas)
  • Changed steering wheel to Momo since old one was completely thrashed and horn was stuck in on position.
  • Lloyd rubber floor mats (just added the trunk liner too)
  • Added cabin filter per DIY on this forum
  • Wired in momentary buttons for cruise control since I have an aftermarket steering wheel (no pics yet)
 

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Last edited:

chentwoten

New member
Ran into the common fuel line leaking issue in the engine bay from the hose disintegrating around the crimps.

Ended up running a 3000gt billet fuel rail to -6AN fitting, and a Radium M14x1.5 inverted flare fitting to adapt to the hard line.

Line is -6AN with braided line and fittings from Earls.
 

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chentwoten

New member
For anyone looking to run an aftermarket steering wheel and hub kit on a Montero, here's what I've figured out what works:

  • Momo hub 6106 (if you get the NRG one, it's really short and you'll need a quick release or spacer to keep the wheel from being almost on the turn signal and wiper stalks)
  • Momo or Momo-pattern steering wheel of your choice (Nardi/Personal is a different bolt pattern)
  • Honda p/n 35259-SH3-A02 Horn (Tec) Shoe
  • Some crimps, wire, etc. to connect the wires to get the horn working.
General process is as follows:
  1. Disconnect battery, remove old airbag and steering wheel.
  2. Remove clockspring
  3. Remove steering column plastic.
  4. Mount the new steering wheel hub.
  5. Drill two holes in the white plastic to mount the Honda horn contact piece. (See pics, use two screws to keep the contact from moving when steering the wheel back and forth).
  6. Run wire from Honda horn contact to the horn wire (originally plugged into clockspring).
  7. Wire in Airbag resistor if you want (my airbag light is always on since I swapped in older cloth interior without seat plugs).
  8. Bolt up steering wheel and horn button per usual on any aftermarket steering wheel.
The Honda horn contact is key to making the horn work in this application since the clockspring is removed. I tried paperclip and other spring metal and they all made a ton of noise while steering. Having two screws is what keeps the contact from shifting over time.
 

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chentwoten

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Also been fixing some aesthetic and boring stuff along the way.
  • Found a rear bumper cap for the driver side from a junkyard.
  • Installed a gutter mounted Rhino Rack roof rack, removed the original sorry excuse of a roof rack
  • Stripped and repainted the tailgate lower trim garnish piece
  • Installed LED reverse lights that everybody has done
  • Replaced tires with 32" Falken Wildpeak ATW3s since I wasn't planning on regearing immediately. Got a matching Pro Comp 15" steel wheel and fifth tire to match.
  • Got the Cheetah Q6 tail lights from Braddock (blister.boi on Instagram). Great guy, would highly recommend.
 

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chentwoten

New member
What TPMS kit are you using?

On Amazon it's called the U912 TPMS System. The one I got was for Toyota with External sensors. Cut one of the switch blanks and gutted the back and hotglued the display unit in.

The power is just tapped into ignition 12V via cig lighter circuit.
 
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