2020 Ram 5500 DIY Composite Panel Camper Build Thread

[skirunman]

We are currently doing testing on foam core/plywood for furniture construction... Weight and material choices are always a big talking point...

Very interested in how your testing goes. I have been looking at various high quality, lightweight plywoods for cabinet construction. I'm not sure one needs an actual marine grade plywood (i.e. a water proof glue) if you finish all sides of the cabinets. A high quality plywood like Baltic or Russian Birch or a lighter option like a high ply Poplar plywood (40% lighter) could work well.

 

[IdaSHO]

In talking with Andreas at TC the key is to eliminate point loads. I'm planning to do this for my upcoming build.

1) Something light with small cross section that I may want to remove: a good 3M double-sided tape, like a coat hook or towel rack.
2) Something light not removable, Korapop PU adhesive, maybe with a screw or two to a fix while drying.
3) Something medium to heavy with large cross section, Korapop PU adhesive with spacer to allow for correct amount of glue, use for cabinets.
4) Something medium to heavy with small cross section, should be attached through FRP tubing you design into the wall (see photo), like L-Track for hanging stuff on back wall. If really heavy add steel plates to tap into with bolts and spread weight across multiple tube sections, like for a spare tire.

View attachment 630519

That's a complicated structure, but it does solve a lot of problems, and would likely perform very well.

Only change I would make is to soften the edge of the ply inserts where it contacts the interior wall panel.
A simple round over, similar to the profile of the rounded corners of the FRP tube,
would reduce the chance of a crack/fracture failure along that hard line that is created by the sharp edge of the ply.

 

[rruff]

I'm not sure one needs an actual marine grade plywood (i.e. a water proof glue) if you finish all sides of the cabinets.

Waterproof glue is used in most plywood, but I don't see why it would matter more on the inside of a camper vs the inside of a house. Unless you are planning on persistent condensation?

 

[skirunman]

That's a complicated structure, but it does solve a lot of problems, and would likely perform very well.

Only change I would make is to soften the edge of the ply inserts where it contacts the interior wall panel.
A simple round over, similar to the profile of the rounded corners of the FRP tube,
would reduce the chance of a crack/fracture failure along that hard line that is created by the sharp edge of the ply.

Just to be clear, this assembly comes from TC, i.e. they designed it, not me. That is their picture as well.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Just to be clear, this assembly comes from TC, i.e. they designed it, not me. That is their picture as well.

Yes, I had them to my entire front most wall like this with steel in it to mount the huge vertical storage box too once I get it made.

Was also going to mount the spare tire to it, but found it would be a royal pain in the butt to take on and off so did a roll on carrier instead

 

[Alloy]

The cabinet itself is usually a stiff piece; I guess the plywood is attached to the wall (rather than just gluing the cabinet to the wall) so the cabinet is removable?

Plywood is ~0.55 g/cm^3 vs 2.8 for aluminum, so aluminum is ~5x the density. Aluminum has ~6x higher modulus (stiffness for same dimensions), but if you are looking at flat backing plates the stiffness increases with thickness to the 3rd power, so a plywood plate with 2x the thickness of the aluminum will exceed it in stiffness and still weigh less than half.

You can certainly use aluminum though if the numbers work out.

I prefer strips of aluminum (3/16"-1/2") or angles/ T-bar. I've stich welded an angle/flatbar to 3"-4" wide sheet aluminum to create more surface area.

Biggest advantage of aluminum is that it can be drilled or tapped for bolts.

Lightening holes can be added to reduce the weight.

Also do strips (plywood or alum) because it is easier to cut the Urethane with a wire cutter if strips need to come off.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Been busy as all hell with work so progress on the camper interior has been slow. But here is the latest video with a few updates.

Tested the hell out of both the water heater and the induction stove, and for all the "That won't go where i go" folks, they are going to work perfectly fine with my electrical system.

Heating element only draws 750 watts, and this unit is better insulated than most, so i tested it and it got 4 gallons hot to the point of scalding, and only drew down 54ah, which was quickly replenished by solar.

More on all that electric mumbo jumbo later, as i will wait for the internetlanders to chime in with their negative-speak!

 

[cobro92]

Any reason in particular you went with the separate air heater and water heater? In a lot of these builds these days I feel like everyone is going to a combo hydronic diesel air/water heater.


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[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Any reason in particular you went with the separate air heater and water heater? In a lot of these builds these days I feel like everyone is going to a combo hydronic diesel air/water heater.

Good, and valid question...

All builds are different for different reasons, here is MY reason for what i did...

SIMPLICITY, RELIABILITY, AND SPACE...

What do i mean by that?

I looked extensively into all options for both air and water heater, tons of pros and cons with each really.

WARRANTY:
There is absolutely zero chance i am going to risk altering the warranty on the drivetrain of my 2020 truck by splicing into the coolant system. There are at least 2 earthroamers that have blown their engines in the last year due to hydronic system failures (coolant leaks), one of which is an Admin on here i believe. I'm simply not willing to do that on a brand new truck.

SPACE:
The way around altering your trucks coolant system is to do a closed loop system. This just simply takes up too much room and has way too many moving parts and potential failure points for my liking. Even without a close loop system, there is still a lot of moving parts, and things that take up valuable space and real estate.

SIMPLICITY:
With an electric water heater, you really only have ONE possibly failure point, the heating element. If it fails, you simply don't have hot water, you are not broken down. If it fails, its a $100, 1 hour fix.

RELIABILITY:
As for the furnace, the Espar D2 is widely recognized as the furnace of choice, and as reliable as it gets. If it fails, i use more blankets, i am not broke down.

If i had a larger rig with a lot more room, i would consider a hydronic system using a closed loop system, but for what i have, it would simply take up too much space, and again, i am not willing to alter my factory coolant system. Not at this time anyway. Maybe later down the road when i am out of warranty and i determine i need more hot water, which i am pretty confident i wont, but ya never know.

Hope that makes sense. Yes, i know some people will disagree, and that's fine... The internetlanders have strong opinions!

 

[cobro92]

That is extremely helpful thank you! Great job on the build so far. Very well thought out.


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[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

That is extremely helpful thank you! Great job on the build so far. Very well thought

Happy to help, and thank you! Still a ton to do.

 

[Dust999]

Hi, thank you for taking the time to share your build with us. I am at the beginning of this journey...trying to decide Ram, Ford or Unimog.....

Did you consider/research the LiquidSpring suspension system at all? Am looking for a comparison between this and the kelderman setup you have installed. Travel will be global in my case, with many stretches of bad 'washboard' gravel roads.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Hi, thank you for taking the time to share your build with us. I am at the beginning of this journey...trying to decide Ram, Ford or Unimog.....

Did you consider/research the LiquidSpring suspension system at all? Am looking for a comparison between this and the kelderman setup you have installed. Travel will be global in my case, with many stretches of bad 'washboard' gravel roads.

I tried and tried to research them, but there is VERY limited feedback on them from ACTUAL users. Lots of marketing and claims, but real world feedback that involves any type of offroading doesnt seem to exist.

 

[MotoAG]

Really digging this build. Currently debating on ordering an F550 or Dodge 5500 crew cab to build with a camper from Total Composites.

Also debating similar suspension but without any lift available I've been questioning how the front Felderman may work. The rear seems easy enough with new bags or just dropping the assembly.

Up front you, moved things ahead 1" which I think is best. Then you used the Buckstop track bar. So for the front suspension why not use their offset lower mount and the airbag from Kelderman? Other than its a stacked up bunch of pieces from different folks and... I dunno that lower mount looks a little jenky IMO.

But with the quality of welding on your bed why not just fab a new lower mount for the Kelderman front set up?

I was thinking bigger bags on all four corners would give you some ability to level the camper if you came up with a slick compressor/air distribution arrangement.

I've got other questions on why D5500 over F550 (Ford has axle traction options but Dodge has the 6.7... I'm at a crossroads) and why a chest ARB rather than a built in RV fridge but I'll hit you with all that another time...

These are things that occurred to me before seeing your post so thought I'd get your opinion.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Really digging this build. Currently debating on ordering an F550 or Dodge 5500 crew cab to build with a camper from Total Composites.

Both platforms have their pros and cons, i strongly suggest driving both before making your decision based on paper specs.

Also debating similar suspension but without any lift available I've been questioning how the front Felderman may work. The rear seems easy enough with new bags or just dropping the assembly.

Up front you, moved things ahead 1" which I think is best. Then you used the Buckstop track bar. So for the front suspension why not use their offset lower mount and the airbag from Kelderman? Other than its a stacked up bunch of pieces from different folks and... I dunno that lower mount looks a little jenky IMO.

No, i used the stock track bar, and the buckstop bracket. Yes, their lower mount looks janky, which is exactly what i didnt go with it. I am confident a friend can build a better, beefier one at the proper angle. Theirs is designed for 3.5" lift. I am only doing 2"

But with the quality of welding on your bed why not just fab a new lower mount for the Kelderman front set up?

Thats what i am going to do

I was thinking bigger bags on all four corners would give you some ability to level the camper if you came up with a slick compressor/air distribution arrangement.

This can easily be done with the stock bags that come with the kit too. They have a total of 9" of adjustment.

and why a chest ARB rather than a built in RV fridge but I'll hit you with all that another time...

I've beat this to death with a stick in both this thread and others. Chest fridges are far superior than any other style when the vehicle is used offroad, and mine will be alot.

Myself, and several other friends have had their standard door style fridges open up (even when latched) and dump the contents onto the floor offroading more than once. They suck.

I know someone will chime in with they have X or Y model and it works great, and thats all fine and dandy. I think they suck and will standby my opinion. For each is own

I've used ARB chest fridges for close to 20 years now and never once had stuff fly out of the top offroad. Soooooo

Also, generally speaking, the chest style is more efficient.