Making a B+ or C Class more capable.

[Raul]

For the use you mention, probably even a factory Limited Sleep Differential (LSD) and taller AT tires will do. With the taller tires you may have to re-gear your differential, that would be a good time to install the LSD. LSD + New Gear would be about $1000 plus labor. LSD can be clutch type (factory on the option on Ford or worm gear (Torsen) type. Go for the Torsen.

 

[BritKLR]

We spend a lot of time on two tracks in Colorado and Utah in our Tiger. I'm always amazed at how far out people will take their 2wd C's and B's. Generally speaking good driving technique, experience and common sense will take you a long way......But, when bad decisions and mother nature kicks in a good set of tires, air compressor (airing down), traction devices (chains, mats, etc...) shovel, recover strap, quality recovery points (front and rear) and some hardwork will take you a long way if stuck. After that, a locker with chains and throttle control will take you a long way.....By the time your into lifts, winchs and 4wd your really going places that will challenge any rig and driver.
Most of what we've seen has been sinking in mud, mud/snow slide-offs on slight inclines and high center stuck (approach/departure length stucks). In the end and while exploring, and since AAA won't recover off-road, keep an extra $1000 around for off-road recovery! Cheers and have fun!

(Off-road RV secret......foam in your cabinets to absorb rattles, small bungees on all cabinet doors, drawers and oven door, Nothing on the counter/floor........RV's are noisy on the highway, just wait till you get it on the trail, it'll sound like it's coming apart! Also, due to chassis flex check all seams when done to make sure you haven't popped a seam and a leak or structural damage has occurred....mmmmmm.....life off-road.)

 

[quickfarms]

Once you jump up to a 550/5500 you get into a higher cost chassis than a Ford E 450 chassis.
A reason it is still used for so many smaller RV's
I've been living in an E series base RV for a long time and am ready for a truck chassis.
I'm not a very big guy and the E series just doesn't give you very much legroom.
The doghouse sticking into the cab gives you access to the rear of the engine, but it also allows a
fair amount of engine noise into the cab.
Truck chassis's can be had with factory 4x4, better than all the aftermarket ones required for the van.

For the doghouse I have had good results by removing it, then removing the factory pad and spraying lizard skin in the inside then reinstalling the factory pad.

If you are going to open up the differential to either change the gear ration or differential I would just put in a locker, I prefer Detroit lockers in the rear.

Custom springs and shocks are definitely worth the money for lift and improved ride.

One thing that has not been mentioned yet, that I see, is you should remove or relocate anything that is hanging low and add skid plates as necessary. I see rv’s all the time with low hanging drain pipes that could easily be relocated up several inches, they need to have a slope to drain but I see then very low to go under the skirting. The side skirting on a class c could also be trimmed so it does not hang lower than the frame or driveline of the vehicle

 

[Photobug]

Those RVs are all undersprung and sloppy from the factory. The two options I usually see people go with are WeldTech for 2wd lift or full 4x4 via a U-Joint conversion or the likes. Whatever route you go, make sure you opt for a custom leaf pack designed to handle the actual weight of the vehicle and not just blocks.

I am seeing lift kits for between $800-1200. Besides custom leaf packs what does the other company provide?

 

[i bike]

I am seeing lift kits for between $800-1200. Besides custom leaf packs what does the other company provide?

If we’re talking 2wd lifts, the WeldTech kit comes with bent and/or longer radius arms depending on what kit you go with, which help suspension geometry and increase wheel travel. They also include custom valved shocks for all four corners and taller progressive coil springs for the front.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[willywalderbeast]

Keep it 2wd, no need for 4x4. Between the size of a Class C limiting you to where you can go trail wise and the weight you’ll have on the rear axle for snow applications 4x4 imo is not needed on these bigger rigs and is a waste. Most rigs your looking for will be dually too so airing down gives you a huge contact patch for sand/beach driving. If you have to 15-20k to burn then by all means 4x4 it, but I would save the money and just do a lift and tires ??

 

[Photobug]

Well if all goes well On Monday I will be driving home with one of these. My plan is to winterize it and throw a cover over it. It will start off as just an RV in the Spring while I consider and analyze locker and lift options as well as other upgrades.

 

[martinf]

It looks like you made your choice already! I was about to suggest the new Winnebago EKKO that is built on an AWD transit and can be lifted.

 

[68camaro]

I am very happy with the 4.5" Action Van lift on my E-350 Chinook, I would have gone custom spring route but only needed 2" block in rear so went with that. If I needed bigger I would have gone with custom leafs but 2" block is mild and hasn't been issue, plus I have Mor-Ryde system and limited slip diff.

The lift with 235/85/16 Duratracs provides enough height to get me down the dirt, gravel and fire roads , hilly or off-canter camping sites has not been issue. Of course I do need to compromise at times but all-in-all setup works good.

 

[Todd n Natalie]

Well if all goes well On Monday I will be driving home with one of these. My plan is to winterize it and throw a cover over it. It will start off as just an RV in the Spring while I consider and analyze locker and lift options as well as other upgrades.

View attachment 628461

Hope all goes well Monday! I know 22RD is the model. But, my eyes see it as 22rd.. like a misprinted 22nd... It's driving my OCD nuts.

24st
25rd
31th...

Argh.

 

[Photobug]

Keep it 2wd, no need for 4x4. Between the size of a Class C limiting you to where you can go trail wise and the weight

My new camper if it all works out will be quite a bit higher than my current truck but only a foot shorter and 2000 lbs lighter. I will feel like my truck, if I can't get there, I don't want to go there. We may look at adding a motor cycle or electric bikes to the rig to allow us to explore deeper if need be.

 

[Photobug]

It looks like you made your choice already! I was about to suggest the new Winnebago EKKO that is built on an AWD transit and can be lifted.

Those look nice but I have already quintupled my original high range budget. This is going to cut into my sailboat budget, but I feel will be worth it.

 

[rruff]

I've heard that Born Frees are very good quality rigs.

 

[Photobug]

I've heard that Born Frees are very good quality rigs.

Thats what I keep hearing also. They have roll bars in them. This thing will be a game changer, I am getting too old to sleep in the back of my truck.

 

[jkam]

The roll bars might save you, but the rest of the RV will be destroyed.
I know that's the point, but really, if you think you might get into a situation where you might need roll bars, then a
traditional RV is not for you.