Building a Plywood Deck Plate in the Back of your JKU

Ozian

New member
You have all inspired me to build my own false floor for my 2014 JKUS. Turned out pretty good thanks to everyone’s tips here. I built in a hinged trap door so I can still access the under floor storage area. Happy with the final product, and it handles my 60L fridge perfectly. Thanks for the inspiration!

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Kmrtnsn

Explorer
It worked! The cargo mat made a perfect template. I drilled a series of holes for the subwoofer to breathe. I got Acra tie downs through bolted with T-nuts for the ARB fridge tie down. I ordered aircraft style "L" track for the left size for cargo control. I'm also waiting on longer M6 bolts to screw it to the floor. Lowe's only had 50mm and they're too short.

Still have that mat? I need a template. I imagine it would save a couple of hours of trial and error!!
 

harpersJK

Member
I’m always interested in other people’s plate designs. I went through a few designs on my JKU before deciding imitation is the greatest form of flattery and that poverty is often the mother of invention. With the help of skilled carpenter and enough cardboard boxes to pack my house into, I set out to see how close to a Goose Gear design I could get. It took about 80 hours over a lot of late nights and weekends, but in the end I came out with a pretty close fake. In the end, after totaling all the parts and pieces and do overs and it came out about a wash. If I had to pay my carpenter friend for his time, it would have been a financial looser. However, in the end, I can say I built that myself and I can fix that myself. Something I’ve always held to on my Overland build.
You can’t fault Goose Gear for their prices though. Really sit down and do the math on the relatively low volume manufacturing that they do and the wide range of products for different vehicles that they offer. Sure they make some money, but I think you would find it less than most would think.

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What did you use for the finish, is that a bedliner spray?
Randy
 

krick3tt

Adventurer
I don't have a Jeep fitted out like yours but I make my templates from heavy weight cardboard that can be added or subtracted from easily for the odd shapes. Cardboard and duct tape the make the job of making templates so much easier. Thanks for posting your photos.
 

Jamespurcell

New member
What did you use for the finish, is that a bedliner spray?
Randy

I had the parts LineX’d. It was expensive to have someone do it, but it turned out very nice and durable. I’m not sure of the difference between different companies, I’m sure they are all the same and some are much cheaper. Linex was the closest, so they got my business.


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harpersJK

Member
I had the parts LineX’d. It was expensive to have someone do it, but it turned out very nice and durable. I’m not sure of the difference between different companies, I’m sure they are all the same and some are much cheaper. Linex was the closest, so they got my business.


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Thanks, I did my platform with the diamond plate rubber and I'm not happy with it. Sounds like a winter mod.
Take care!
Randy
 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
Thanks, I did my platform with the diamond plate rubber and I'm not happy with it. Sounds like a winter mod.
Take care!
Randy

Yea, mine is peeling and separating in a few spots too (though it has been abused), so I will probably do it over with some roll-on Herculiner at some point.
 

dstock

Explorer
I ended up adding a slide-out drawer/tray to my plywood platform. I wanted it high enough to not interfere with the tailgate table when deployed. I also didn't want a full drawer as we like to have our kitchen supplies mobile. I did not put a back on the setup as I wanted to be able to access the rear area if the seats are folded done and for longer objects. The whole unit is secured with t-nuts so it can be removed in less than 5 minutes. There's a very finite amount of room between my AT shelf with the K9 table and the unit, but it fits a couple of Frontrunner Flatpacks perfectly. I used locking drawer slides for the tray. I'll be adding a cutting board holder on the side of the unit when time allows.

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Pierre C

New member
I just found that tread. Let me sa that we are all one the same concept. That's my spring Jeep upgrade work.

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Do you have plans to remove the side trim and replace it by plywood. Kind of a DIY «Goose Gear»?
 
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Vanhalo

Member
Materials Required:
  • Large sheets of cardboard - enough to create a 44" x 37" piece (if not use duct tape to create a large enough piece)
  • 1/2 Sheet (4x4) of desired grade of plywood in either 1/2" or 5/8" thickness (I used 5/8" ACX which uses a waterproof glue). If you want to go "all out" and have a really good lumber yard nearby, you might be able to find Baltic Birch plywood in 5/8" thickness, but it will be expensive. It holds screws REALLY well, and is perhaps a bit more stiff than ACX.
  • (4) M6 x 60mm button head screws, stainless or black oxide finish
  • (4) 1" x 1/4" fender washers in the same finish as the screws
  • (4) M6 x 40 studs (optional)


Those look like M6 x 60mm Flat Head Socket Cap Screws
 

Kmrtnsn

Explorer
Well guys, inspired by your ideas and some others I cribbed a bit here and there and came up with this. Since I suck at making recessed doors I bought three marine hatches. All of my recovery Gear will be below the floor, out of the way and out of sight. I retained access to the factory storage area.
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SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
That is a FANTASTIC idea! Brilliant - using marine deck hatches. Bomar? Only downside is that they are $$$. I may have to re-do the front of my setup with marine hatches - I love the way that turned out.
 

Kmrtnsn

Explorer
That is a FANTASTIC idea! Brilliant - using marine deck hatches. Bomar? Only downside is that they are $$$. I may have to re-do the front of my setup with marine hatches - I love the way that turned out.

No, not Bomar. they’re DPI Marine Flush Series which means they’re raised up about 1/4” instead of 3/4-1” like the others. I was planning on using four floor hatches that I had from our Ram pickups but the openings weren’t big enough.
 

snosrfr

New member
No, not Bomar. they’re DPI Marine Flush Series which means they’re raised up about 1/4” instead of 3/4-1” like the others. I was planning on using four floor hatches that I had from our Ram pickups but the openings weren’t big enough.
Well done! that is almost exactly what i have mocked up - removing the 60% seat, 4" elevated platform, and hatch doors for gear access. only differences are i'm running L track rails instead of single tie down points, and laying 1/2" stall mat between the rails for the dogs to have traction. did you just use cardboard for your templates?
 

Kmrtnsn

Explorer
Well done! that is almost exactly what i have mocked up - removing the 60% seat, 4" elevated platform, and hatch doors for gear access. only differences are i'm running L track rails instead of single tie down points, and laying 1/2" stall mat between the rails for the dogs to have traction. did you just use cardboard for your templates?

Thank you! If you look in the back of your Jeep, you’ll see that the sides are straight if you come up a little in floor height. I made one small template to cover the transition from the wheel well side to the plastic trim panel and another for the front half section wheel well curve. i think I used the same piece of cardboard for it all.

I thought about running lengths of l-track also but in the end I decided it was a bit excessive. The four-packs of individual tie downs were so much cheaper. I have stall mat here and it’s heavy and retains heat, I don’t think you will like it in the end.
 
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