Dual Battery Location

[MummifiedCircuitry]

I've been trying to find a good location for an aux battery for awhile now, but the engine bay is pretty tight. I wanted a deep cycle in the engine bay and not an AGM inside the cab too. I ended up buying a couple battery trays from the junkyard from various cars and making up a mount, also moved a couple sensors and cleared an area behind the airbox for the 2nd battery. This won't work for vehicles 98+ with ABS junk in this area.

I looked at about 25 different batteries and ended up getting a Duralast 24MD-DL Marine Deep Cycle and it fits perfectly. The battery was $87 from Autozone and the dual battery isolator kit with wiring was $40 on ebay, so overall a pretty solid setup for under $150 and has been running a fridge constantly for a month with normal driving between. I might upgrade the isolator to a Redarc for the jumpstart/winch link function.

This is just a post for those who may have been going through the same issue or trying to find the best place for their aux battery, I personally think this is the best location.

 

[PaydayGabe]

That's a beauty spot. Great job. What tray did you use?
I have ABS.

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[MummifiedCircuitry]

That's a beauty spot. Great job. What tray did you use?
I have ABS.

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Thanks, one of the trays was from a mid 2000's Galant, the other was from a Nissan I think. I think I just used the support leg and brackets off the Galant tray, I re-drilled and cut some different parts. It's best if you can hunt the junkyard for a tray that's mounted on a fender well since that's where it's going in the Montero.

I wonder how difficult it is to remove ABS, we have a 98 Montero with ABS as well and would prefer it gone.

 

[spacecowboy7777]

Really cool, thanks for the write up!

 

[dos531]

Thanks, one of the trays was from a mid 2000's Galant, the other was from a Nissan I think. I think I just used the support leg and brackets off the Galant tray, I re-drilled and cut some different parts. It's best if you can hunt the junkyard for a tray that's mounted on a fender well since that's where it's going in the Montero.

I wonder how difficult it is to remove ABS, we have a 98 Montero with ABS as well and would prefer it gone.

Its very easy to remove the abs. I deleted it on my 94 SR with no issues. You will need a coupler and a T junction to bypass the abs pump. If you look at the abs diagram in the service manual its pretty obvious how to bypass it. I used that space to mount my compressor.

 

[MummifiedCircuitry]

Its very easy to remove the abs. I deleted it on my 94 SR with no issues. You will need a coupler and a T junction to bypass the abs pump. If you look at the abs diagram in the service manual its pretty obvious how to bypass it. I used that space to mount my compressor.

That's good to know, the ABS light has been on since we bought it and I've never been a fan of ABS anyways. Looks like I'll be getting rid of that when I get a chance, thanks.

 

[phstudio]

I've been trying to find a good location for an aux battery for awhile now, but the engine bay is pretty tight. I wanted a deep cycle in the engine bay and not an AGM inside the cab too. I ended up buying a couple battery trays from the junkyard from various cars and making up a mount, also moved a couple sensors and cleared an area behind the airbox for the 2nd battery. This won't work for vehicles 98+ with ABS junk in this area.

I looked at about 25 different batteries and ended up getting a Duralast 24MD-DL Marine Deep Cycle and it fits perfectly. The battery was $87 from Autozone and the dual battery isolator kit with wiring was $40 on ebay, so overall a pretty solid setup for under $150 and has been running a fridge constantly for a month with normal driving between. I might upgrade the isolator to a Redarc for the jumpstart/winch link function.

This is just a post for those who may have been going through the same issue or trying to find the best place for their aux battery, I personally think this is the best location.

Very nice use of space.

 

[phstudio]

Its very easy to remove the abs. I deleted it on my 94 SR with no issues. You will need a coupler and a T junction to bypass the abs pump. If you look at the abs diagram in the service manual its pretty obvious how to bypass it. I used that space to mount my compressor.

I have swapped over my complete axle assemblies and brake system from a rolled over non ABS '97 SR into a '98 2.5 with ABS. We removed power and the fusible link to the ABS system and removed the ABS light from the dash. One of these days I'll bypass the hydraulic unit and because of your post, I just looked at the service manual and now know what I need to do. My question is, is there any issues of leaving the hydraulic unit, for the time being, in place with the ABS system disabled?

Thanks

 

[PaydayGabe]

Very nice use of space.

When it becomes necessary (sooner than later) I'm considering the 24MS battery as the primary Batt for my Sport. Anyone have thoughts regarding this??
Just installed a 200amp upgrade alternator and will be doing the Big 3 cable upgrade also.
Thanks, G


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[Salonika]

Under normal driving conditions, ABS is hard / impossible to beat during emergency braking. I don’t know why so many people knock it. It was a huge step forward in safety when it came out. When on gravel, some snow conditions or full off-road I’ve heard of situations where it isn’t so great, but on pavement I’m glad to have the technology under my foot.

Having said this I see no harm from leaving the ABS pump in the circuit and disabled. They’re made to be like old school brakes if they fail so no worries there.

 

[dos531]

I have swapped over my complete axle assemblies and brake system from a rolled over non ABS '97 SR into a '98 2.5 with ABS. We removed power and the fusible link to the ABS system and removed the ABS light from the dash. One of these days I'll bypass the hydraulic unit and because of your post, I just looked at the service manual and now know what I need to do. My question is, is there any issues of leaving the hydraulic unit, for the time being, in place with the ABS system disabled?

Thanks

On mine the abs pump was not functioning and caused a very soft pedal. Replaced the MC, bled the brakes countless times, but made no difference. Once I bypassed the pump the pedal is very firm and the braking is much improved. If you've disabled the pump I would physically remove it as well.

 

[Salonika]

I have heard of air getting into ABS pumps due to improper brake servicing, and that in those situations the ABS pump must be jogged during bleeding to eliminate the air, or a good power bleeder can possibly clear the air. I know of factory service procedures and scan tool functions that address those situations. The pump itself should not normally be the source of any problems beyond trapped air. They are put in millions of vehicles and have been for decades, and they are designed to not interfere with braking even if they are not functioning properly.

 

[dos531]

I have heard of air getting into ABS pumps due to improper brake servicing, and that in those situations the ABS pump must be jogged during bleeding to eliminate the air, or a good power bleeder can possibly clear the air. I know of factory service procedures and scan tool functions that address those situations. The pump itself should not normally be the source of any problems beyond trapped air. They are put in millions of vehicles and have been for decades, and they are designed to not interfere with braking even if they are not functioning properly.

What they are designed to do, and what they actually do are often very different.

 

[PaydayGabe]

So yup,,, this thread has drifted from the original subject matter.

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