10th Generation F-150 Overland build (The Craptor)

OBS460

Well-known member
@OBS460 your build is awesome so far, but tell me more about that RX8!

Sure thing!

The RX-8 has been built around SCCA Pro Solo D street prepared rules. I purchased it relatively stock with a rebuilt title, and decided it'd make a good track toy. I run it locally with a great group, and we are slowly dialing it in. Current race weight is around 2780lbs at 1/2 tank of fuel. The truck setup also revolves around making the grid life more comfortable between heats! My Fiancee co-drives it with me, and we have a great time!

Here is the current mod list.

-Fortune Auto 500 coilovers custom valved with 11k front spring rate, and 8k rear springs.
-All poly energy suspension bushings.
-32mm adjustable front sway bar (set at medium)/ 19mm oem rear bar
-Series 2 4.77 rear differential (with poly bushings)
-17x9 Enkei RPF1's wrapped with 255-40-17 BFG R1's (race set)
-Custom alignment with as much negative camber as possible, zero toe.
-Cheap racing seats
-Shorai Lithium motorcycle battery (2.9lb)
-Audio system delete
-A/C system delete
-Racing Beat cat back
-Catless mid pipe
-Custom tuned with Versatuner (I write my own tunes)
-Lightweight underdrive pulley set
-GM D585 ignition coils and custom wire set
-AEM CAI
-SOHN oil adapter and tank (fed with Idemitsu)
-Premixed at .75oz/gal
 

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Grassland

Well-known member
The old man in me delights at the colour scheme the 10th gen has. Along with its condition.

How's that awning working out for you? I've considered something similar for my 12th gen.
 
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OBS460

Well-known member
@OBS460 thanks for that! I'm a serious rotary nerd. I've had an FB RX7 and an 04 RX8, but almost completely unmodified especially compared to yours.


They can be great cars, if proper maintenance is performed. I think the Renesis gets a bad reputation, and a lot of the failures were due to owner negligence (poor oil change interval, failed ignition system, etc). I periodically monitor compression on mine, and so far I'm around 7.5-7.8 BAR when normalized on my rotary compression tester. She should have several good years in her before she needs torn down and resealed.

Nothing the aural experience of flat foot shifting at 9400rpms!
 
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OBS460

Well-known member
The old man in me delights at the colour scheme the 10th gen has. Along with its condition.

How's that awning working out for you? I've considered something similar for my 13th gen.

Thank you, I decided to plastidip the lower portion of the truck to hopefully spare it some rock chips along the way. Last week I crawled under it to repaint the frame and touch up any rock chips. Here in a month or so I'm going to spray it down liberally with Fluid Film prior to the winter season.


So far the awning is great! Time will tell on durability but I enjoy the fact that I can deploy it in about 2 minutes, half of it is anchored by the truck, and I don't have to give up precious interior space to stow it.
 

badm0t0rfinger

Raptor Apologist.
They can be great cars, if proper maintenance is performed. I think the Renesis gets a bad reputation, and a lot of the failures were due to owner negligence (poor oil change interval, failed ignition system, etc). I periodically monitor compression on mine, and so far I'm around 7.5-7.8 BAR when normalized on my rotary compression tester. She should have several good years in her before she needs torn down and resealed.

Nothing the aural experience of flat foot shifting at 9400rpms!

I tell that too anyone who will listen "bUt ThE ApEx SeAlS!" ehhh dude if you take care of it and done boost the ******** out of it and take care of it (redline a day, never let it run for less than 5 minutes once turned on) and you should be fine. Seriously put about 40k miles on between those cars, never once left me stranded. Though I did once think I was looking at a new engine when a friend borrowed it and refilled it with literally the worst garbage gas he could find. Seriously how he managed to find the one station near us with 85 and fill it with that even after I told him it needed at least 91 is beyond me!

I still think about getting an FD one of these days but when I was younger I had less money and they were about 12 to 17k, now they are 18 to 25k easily. And I dont particularly want a LS swapped one either, if I did I'd just but a C5 corvette anyways.
 

OBS460

Well-known member
I tell that too anyone who will listen "bUt ThE ApEx SeAlS!" ehhh dude if you take care of it and done boost the **** out of it and take care of it (redline a day, never let it run for less than 5 minutes once turned on) and you should be fine. Seriously put about 40k miles on between those cars, never once left me stranded. Though I did once think I was looking at a new engine when a friend borrowed it and refilled it with literally the worst garbage gas he could find. Seriously how he managed to find the one station near us with 85 and fill it with that even after I told him it needed at least 91 is beyond me!

I still think about getting an FD one of these days but when I was younger I had less money and they were about 12 to 17k, now they are 18 to 25k easily. And I dont particularly want a LS swapped one either, if I did I'd just but a C5 corvette anyways.

Heh, depending on the car's setup low octane (on a N/A rotary, not boosted) sometimes makes more power. The RX-8's routinely make about 10whp more on 87oct vs premium, due to the rotary's inherently long/slow combustion chamber. Boosted is certainly a different story.

FD's are out of sight on price, a local guy has one with a LS7 swap and it's phenomenal. But at that point, I'm like you and would rather have the C6Z as it's a complete package right out of the gate.
 

OBS460

Well-known member
Our Iceco 50L fridge arrived today! Unfortunately I underestimated the weight of the fridge when loaded, so I will have to get a different set of slides when we are back from our trip.

The fridge was on sale on eBay for a great price, and the seller even included the insulated cover! This should protect the fridge from scratches and dings, as well as making it a little more efficient.

To round out the refrigeration setup, I purchased a wireless thermometer to track fridge temps from the cab of the truck while going down the road. Much to my dismay, it displays only centigrade (as the Aussies use the superior metric system, and we are stuck in the measuring stone age here in America) but that is an easy work around.
 

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Grassland

Well-known member
Metric is awesome
It's time murica' gets on board.
0° freezes water 100° boils it.
Tbh Pascal is an inconvenient measurement scale for pressure but metric comes in for the win with everything being on the scale of a thousand. Move the decimal around or add kilo, mega, pico, nano.

What's the AH of your auxiliary battery and how did the solar do to keep it maintained with the fridge?
What did u keep the fridge set to, and what did u keep in it?
 

badm0t0rfinger

Raptor Apologist.
Heh, depending on the car's setup low octane (on a N/A rotary, not boosted) sometimes makes more power. The RX-8's routinely make about 10whp more on 87oct vs premium, due to the rotary's inherently long/slow combustion chamber. Boosted is certainly a different story.

FD's are out of sight on price, a local guy has one with a LS7 swap and it's phenomenal. But at that point, I'm like you and would rather have the C6Z as it's a complete package right out of the gate.

Wait, really? I've never once heard that ever. Mine wasn't boosted but we (my mechanic friend, my car wizard if you will...) considered it... but we thought about supercharging it instead of turbocharging. We had already twin-charged an old diesel mercedes.

I'll stop hijacking your thread from here on out!
 

OBS460

Well-known member
Metric is awesome
It's time murica' gets on board.
0° freezes water 100° boils it.
Tbh Pascal is an inconvenient measurement scale for pressure but metric comes in for the win with everything being on the scale of a thousand. Move the decimal around or add kilo, mega, pico, nano.

What's the AH of your auxiliary battery and how did the solar do to keep it maintained with the fridge?
What did u keep the fridge set to, and what did u keep in it?


I'm running a 100ah Group 31 lead acid, so keeping in mind a 50ah usability I roughly calculated my consumption.

The setup is still new so I havent had enough time to accurately track out consumption. That being said, it looks like the fridge draws around 40ah daily, and the solar is producing around 4.75A at 13.8V for 10 hours, so im outpacing my drain. I leave it set at 38F (damn Imperial upbringing) and have it fully loaded with drinks, meats, etc. I try to minimize dead space, and I keep it in an insulated cover bag as well.

This current trip involves a fair share of driving, so the solar is relatively moot as my alternator pushes 70-75A through the 2ga charge wire if the deep cycle is depleted.
 

OBS460

Well-known member
The Trans-Wisconsin Adventure trip was a success! We traveled a little over 600 miles over: logging roads, national forestry roads, and back roads through the Wisconsin country side. The truck setup worked flawlessly, and we are excited for the next overlanding trip we take!







Here is a link to my blog site, documenting the trip in it's entirety! https://jcbcfamilytravels.wordpress.com/the-trans-wisconsin-trail/
 

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OBS460

Well-known member
This morning I added a 2" receiver to the bottom of my warn semi-hidden mount plate as I have a residential grade snow plow for clearing off my drive. I drilled the hitch plate to accept 2 of the winch mounting bolts, and I spaced my fair lead up 3/4" for clearance.

I'm go to weld it to the plate, and add some gussets to shore everything up (which makes the winch mounting stronger too, so win-win).

Overall, I think it will come in handy!
 

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OBS460

Well-known member
A good friend of mine dropped off some used Nordic LED lights off of a Caterpillar tactor, so I installed them this weekend.

These lights output roughly 2100 Lumens, and match the truck's headlights well for off-road driving.
 

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