Best full size SUV under $7,000

pookie

Observer
Morning,

TLDR: Not to start a Ford/Chevy debate, looking for specific differences 2000-2010 domestic full size SUV under $7k. Also known issues with each.

Backstory: I don’t post much, but I’m looking for suggestions tips for those in the know. I’ve had just about every option Jeep and some models twice, 2 CJ7, 3 TJ, 1 JK, 1 JKU, 1 CJ5, and 1 KJ. I’ve also had a 100 Series LC. We currently have a 2011 Lexus GX460 (and the car payment that goes along with it) it is my wife’s car so it is all stock. We’re selling the GX and looking to pay cash for the replacement, hence the $7k budget.

Long versionA buddy of mine has a well taken care of but high mileage 240k Sequioa for sale that I can probably get for about half my budget, but I’m not really sure I want the Sequioa.

All of our trips are with a family of 4 and a chocolate lab. My kids are elementary age and growing like weeds. We don’t need 3rd row, but the GX has it so we’ve used it a few times. Not a deal breaker on 3rd row. I like primitive camping outside of your typical popular areas.

We do need 4wd as we go to a family property where the road is only accessible on winter with 4wd. I am not planning any rock crawling in Moab or anything like that. Mostly forest dirt/gravel roads.

We also are planning a trips from TN to Yellowstone, one to CO/WY for a few weeks, and another to Yosemite over the next couple years. I want something I feel comfortable taking that far that will also get us home.

I do all my own maintenance and repairs. After 2 engine swaps in other vehicles I’m not real interested in those. Pretty much everything else I “think” I can do. I don’t mind going to pick and pull to get a part I need.

So with all that said, I’ve been looking and see 2000-2010 Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade and Expeditions in my price range but I don’t really know a lot about them. Should I be concerned with any of these over a certain mileage? Any of them have transmission or engine issues? For example, I know about the spark plug issues in the 5.4 Fords up until 2007.

Thanks
 

jaxyaks

Adventurer
Tahoe/Expeditions etc....Motors decent, transmissions not so much on either. Find one taken care of with lowest mileage you can find, take to transmission shop, enjoy till it dies. You can find some decent 4x4 police Tahoes with low miles as well, not all police vehicles are worn out when they trade the fleet and the Tahoes a lot of time were assigned to one person that didn't drive much... A friend of mine has a nice one he picked up that had 30K on it, I think he picked it up for under 10K
 

XJLI

Adventurer
Best condition 03-06 Tahoe you can find. The transmissions and rear ends are perfectly fine if you dont beat on them, and if they go rear ends are a dime a dozen in junkyards and bolt in upgrades are cheap. And any trans shop can rebuild a 4L60E with their eyes closed. I know less about the Fords but they have their plusses and minuses as well, if you like that flavor more.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
I'd say Suburban but the 2nd and 3rd gen Expeditions can usually be had for less $$. I'll let those who have experience with the Expedition chime in on those.

For Suburban/Tahoe some of the early GMT900 models had issues with the Active Fuel Management (AFM) system (the system that shuts down 4 cylinders for better MPG) so it would be prudent to avoid the 2007 - 2008 models. In 2009 they got the 6 speed (6L60) transmission while previous versions had the older 4 speed (4L60.)

The 4L60 transmission is a weak point, mine went out twice, once at 150k and again at 180k (after a rebuild at a local shop.) The 5.3 engine in the 1500 model is pretty bulletproof but not terribly powerful.

Other "known issues" on GMT800 (2000 - 2006) trucks include stepper motor issues on the gauges (easily fixed with a dash rebuild - or if you're handy with a soldering iron you could do it yourself) and fuel pump failures on higher mileage models.

GMC Yukon is identical in size to the Tahoe (i.e. shorter overall) while the Yukon XL is the GMC version of the Suburban. Both Suburbans and Yukon XLs were available in 3/4 ton (2500) versions as well, with either a 6.0 or 8.1L V8 and the beefy 4L80 transmission.

You could also consider a Yukon XL Denali which has the 6.0 V8 and the stronger 4L65 transmission, but you lose low range (Denali's had a full time 4wd system like the Cadillac Escalade.) Non-Denali Yukons are identical to their Chevy counterparts.

Overall I think the Suburban is an excellent vehicle but I would say it's probably prudent to set aside some $$ for maintenance and repairs. At $7k, anything you get is likely to have high miles and be due for some work. You didn't say you were planning on towing anything, but I would rate the 1500 Suburban as really only suitable for towing a smaller (2500lbs or less) trailer on a regular basis.

A 1500 Suburban can get surprisingly good MPG when not towing. On long highway drives I was able to get 18 - 19 MPG. With a 31 gallon fuel tank that made for a long range.

The best thing about the GMT800 Suburban is the interior. It is widely configurable for almost any kind of use. The 3rd row seat removes completely and the 2nd row folds flat so you have an 8' long, flat load deck when the 2nd row is down. Some people prefer the cargo doors (barn doors/ambulance doors) but I liked the lift gate, as it provided a nice shelter when loading or unloading in the rain. The rear window also opened separately so I could put things in the back of the Suburban even when it was hooked to a trailer and I couldn't open the full lift gate.

Parts are easy to find and it can be lifted a couple of inches with just a little bit of work. If I didn't need a newer vehicle and didn't pull a 3500lb trailer I'd love to have another 'Burb.
 

pookie

Observer
With kids (and a dog), I’d not hesitate to go larger if you can. ie Suburban. I doubt you’d regret the extra space over the Tahoe.

Yeah even though the GX is slightly bigger than a 4Runner I think the extra room will be needed as they grow. Although more room means they can bring more junk...
 

pookie

Observer
Were Tahoes and Expeditions from that time frame solid both rear axle?

If the 4L60 is the weak point, do the engines mate up to the stronger 4L80? Or is that not a common swap?

As far as towing, we have a home brew 4x8 utility trailer that is mostly used for hauling canoes and kayaks, with the occasional load of firewood or mulch.
 

XJLI

Adventurer
Were Tahoes and Expeditions from that time frame solid both rear axle?

If the 4L60 is the weak point, do the engines mate up to the stronger 4L80? Or is that not a common swap?

As far as towing, we have a home brew 4x8 utility trailer that is mostly used for hauling canoes and kayaks, with the occasional load of firewood or mulch.

Expeditions were IRS once they switched body styles from the first gen. Solid axle in the GM stuff until 2021.
You can swap a 4L80, but it isnt worth it IMO... a reputable rebuild with some HD parts will be more than adequate if it goes out. I have 170k on mine, original trans and rear end.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Morning,

TLDR: Not to start a Ford/Chevy debate, looking for specific differences 2000-2010 domestic full size SUV under $7k. Also known issues with each.

Backstory: I don’t post much, but I’m looking for suggestions tips for those in the know. I’ve had just about every option Jeep and some models twice, 2 CJ7, 3 TJ, 1 JK, 1 JKU, 1 CJ5, and 1 KJ. I’ve also had a 100 Series LC. We currently have a 2011 Lexus GX460 (and the car payment that goes along with it) it is my wife’s car so it is all stock. We’re selling the GX and looking to pay cash for the replacement, hence the $7k budget.

Long versionA buddy of mine has a well taken care of but high mileage 240k Sequioa for sale that I can probably get for about half my budget, but I’m not really sure I want the Sequioa.

All of our trips are with a family of 4 and a chocolate lab. My kids are elementary age and growing like weeds. We don’t need 3rd row, but the GX has it so we’ve used it a few times. Not a deal breaker on 3rd row. I like primitive camping outside of your typical popular areas.

We do need 4wd as we go to a family property where the road is only accessible on winter with 4wd. I am not planning any rock crawling in Moab or anything like that. Mostly forest dirt/gravel roads.

We also are planning a trips from TN to Yellowstone, one to CO/WY for a few weeks, and another to Yosemite over the next couple years. I want something I feel comfortable taking that far that will also get us home.

I do all my own maintenance and repairs. After 2 engine swaps in other vehicles I’m not real interested in those. Pretty much everything else I “think” I can do. I don’t mind going to pick and pull to get a part I need.

So with all that said, I’ve been looking and see 2000-2010 Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade and Expeditions in my price range but I don’t really know a lot about them. Should I be concerned with any of these over a certain mileage? Any of them have transmission or engine issues? For example, I know about the spark plug issues in the 5.4 Fords up until 2007.

Thanks
I have come across some Sequoias that look good but fail inspection due to no frame left from rust. Don’t buy a Old Sequoia without having the frame inspected
 

Jacobm

Active member
3/4 ton Suburbans/Yukon XLs came with the 4l80e from the factory, along with a 14-bolt instead of the smaller 10 bolt. They're more durable trucks and can handle a lot more towing/payload than the half-tons at the expense of initial purchase price and fuel economy. I vote for buying the lowest mile, best maintained Suburban you can afford. The Expeditions haven't held up as well it seems, and I see a lot less of them on the roads and for sale now compared to a few years ago. The nice thing about Suburbans over Tahoes is the space, and I quantify this by saying you can fit a full size washing machine in the back, in box, with the hatch shut, and the second row in place. Full size 4x8 sheets of plywood or whatever fit with the second row folded down and the hatch shut. Best road trip vehicle ever made
 

McCarthy

Is it riding season yet?
Either an older Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban, or an Expedition/Expedition EL

I'm a die hard Ford guy but would buy whichever of the above I find for the best deal, in the nicest condition for my budget.
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
Just curious, but the Lexus you have is built on the 4-runner platform... Pretty solid truck. Are you looking for more room? Seems like $7k would go a long ways toward paying it off if it's a decent vehicle. Toyota/Lexus reliability is pretty good, generally...

I'm a GM guy, so if you just need something bigger my recommendation is to look for a good deal on a tahoe, yukon, or suburban. If you can find one, I would HIGHLY recommend going with a ~2009+ so you have the 6 speed instead of the 4 speed. I think by 2010, they were all 6 speeds, but I'm not sure about 2007-2009. Look for the +/- button on the shifter as a tell...

I recommend the 6 speed based on my experience with our 2009 2500 with the 6L90, which makes it SOOOOOO much nicer to drive than my 2002 2500 with the 4L80 trans. The 6 speed has far better gearing, and more choice of ratios. If you need a slightly lower gear, there's one that's not taking you from 2000 to 3000 rpm's, it bumps you to 2500. And if you need the full 3000rpm's, that gear is there too. The gear ratio spread is almost 2x the 4 speed transmissions, with low and reverse being quite a bit lower.

The tahoe and LD suburban should get a bit better mileage than a HD suburban, but the HD's are nice for the 6.0L (VVT = good, no variable displacement = good too!) and heavier trans if you're going to abuse it some.

And that brings us to talk about the GM trucks having variable displacement issues. I would recommend getting it de-activated, as i don't think it helps much, and it does sometimes cause oil burning issues. That said, my dad has a 2008 with 200k+ on it that's still going fine with no oil consumption issues. I think keeping the oil changed in reasonable time helps, and I find it likely that most of the failures are from running the oil way too long... The Variable Valve Timing system is really good, and gives better low end torque and better hp numbers vs. older trucks without it.

When you look at trucks, check the glove box for a few option codes... I would look for GT4, which is 3.73 gearing, and G80, which is the automatic locking rear diff. Beyond that, it's all about the options you might want.

Good luck!!
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
FWIW, the 4L60 isn't exactly "weak". My dad plows with his, and he's not nice to the truck at all. 200k+ with no issues seems to indicate that the trans is not the issue... I believe neglect is the issue, and it's common with most used vehicle transmissions these days. Just drop the pan and put a fresh filter, then top the fluid back up asap. Then 5-10k later, do a fluid change again. This gradually gets new fluid in. Do NOT do a "flush", just drain and refill. Dex IV is good stuff, as is Valvoline Max Life full synthetic ATF.

I'd do the same with any trans on a new-to-me vehicle... Nobody changes trans fluid these days. Same with axles and transfer case. And engine for that matter...
 

bigdogyj

Member
Somehow a myth got started that if you maintain a transmission by introducing fresh fluid into it, that makes it self destruct. I've heard a million variations on that theme.

So transmissions get neglected.. and then they die and people act like it's the transmission's fault

Agreed.
My dad has my old truck (2000 1500 z71) purchased brand new now with 242k miles. Original transmission (4L60). It doesn’t tow much but the bed is always overloaded with something. Also I was a 19y/o with a 300HP v8 and blew up the rear end in 6k miles doing burnouts. Since it was replaced under warranty it’s been solid. The Trans Fluid and filter have been changed religiously every 30k miles (drain and refill NOT flushed) — I attribute this to it’s long life. Don’t neglect it and it will treat you for a long time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
Expeditions are all over every pick-n-pull type salvage yard. Parts are plentiful and cheap.

I would probably go with a Chevy/GM product simply because I like the 5.3 more than the 5.4. It has fewer internal parts and performance parts are typically more common and cheaper.
 

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